Hiro/pancake racing front lip and wing?
are you still making or can you make the firewall y brace?
[QUOTE=mildsquare;2115324]Hiro/pancake racing front lip and wing?
are you still making or can you make the firewall y brace?[/QUOTE]
Thanks mildsquare, although its a USRacing front lip, and HIRO wing. Not making the Y brace, no. But I should, I’ve had over 100 inquiry’s for that.
The front cooling duct, is your everyday household flexible vinyl ducting. The trick is that you need to cut a chunk of steel from the chassis to feed it through. I had a custom plastic intake and have since replaced that with a custom carbon velocity stack.
You can see where it feeds through, and the difference between the old and new designs.
lol that bar looks rigid i like it! 
would you be able to post up a shot of the brake ducts? mainly the portion that goes the actual brake caliper. I’m having a hell of a time trying to figure out how to keep it there with out turning the wheel and ripping it off.
Great stuff. Thank you!
in for brake ducting pics! 
also, are you using a front camber kit to get more negative camber or just stock upper control arms? if you are using a kit, which one? Thanks!
im gonna kinda sound like a nerd, but the track on the first vid. i thought it looked very familiar and then it killed, BAM, one of the tracks on Grand turismo 4 lol
awsome vids man
right on… good looking car… honestly that stance of your car with no bumper is hawt! … I just picked up my da… this year will be my first year at the track. So I only have a few more months to get it ready for the first season… Since this is my first season, and I’m gonna be new… got any tips? what do you think should be my first investments for a track car… or what’s the bare minimum to show up with? I’m running a b16a converted 92 gs with a ys1 tranny and p30 ecu… H and R springs on adjustable sleaves with aem shocks… Thats it really… any tips appreciated!
My advice is:
Don’t spend anything more than you have to on your car. Fix what breaks, or is nearly broken. Racing costs a lot of money, and if you dump a bunch of money into things you don’t need, you might not have enough money to fix what you do need.
Also:
Don’t spend anything on making your car ‘better’ for the first season of driving. Every time you modify the car, you change it a little bit. As a learning driver, you’re going to most likely want to keep everything the same. There’s so much to be learned in the first season of racing, that it’s really pointless to be modifying the car. You’ll gain more speed with experience than new parts your first year or so.
I see… and sorry to steal the thread… I was going to invest in better suspension and tires probly to start… Nothing to major, I’m only on h and r springs right now and I can tell you that they are not enough to handle corners. It’s hard to find info for tracking an integra and knowledgable advice on da’s in particular… what setups work well and what don’t. I had a wrx about a year ago, basically the only thing needed for corners was a rear sway to start with and better rubber… I guess that’s where I will start here too before I dump a few g’s into mods… thanks for the advice, well noted sir!
The HR Sport springs are fine. They’re the same rates as the ITR, so what makes you think they “aren’t enough to handle corners?” Just use the HR Sports with some over-the-shelf Koni Yellows.
Your WRX knowledge is correct, in that tires are a good investment and you don’t really need much else to get started.
As far as investing in suspension, if you’re going to do it, do it all at once and leave it the fuck alone. Start with bushings so you don’t have dynamic alignment changes in corners, then replace the springs/shocks with at minimum Ground Control/Koni Yellows/GC Top Mounts. If your rates are going to be over ~400lbs, I seriously recommend the RACE valved shocks, not just the over-the-shelf Yellows. Replace the rear upper control arms with adjustable SPC or Ingalls. Then replace the front upper control arms with those types that have the slider ball-joint, or the sliding mount from Ingalls. Stay away from the eccentric ball-joints or the eccentric UCA mounts. Then, buy a 22mm Progress rear sway bar. Get equal spring rates F/R, or slightly higher rates up front for starters. Increasing the rear spring rates will increase oversteer, or decrease understeer depending on how you look at it. Start with understeer.
Once you buy all that, install it, set the ride height to whatever you want, then get it aligned and corner weighted with your weight in the driver’s seat and all the weight from the car removed (spare tire, subwoofers, etc).
Then, don’t touch it ever again. Don’t take weight out of the car, don’t fuck with anything. Just learn to drive it. Take it to get aligned once in a while just to make sure it’s still where it needs to be.
alright… I just lifted my car today and pulled the tires… what I’m looking at is h&r springs on stock shock… So that’s most likely why my car handles like crap right now. I did not know that h&r springs had itr spring rates… So I suppose thats a good thing, I’ll just be investing in new shocks. I’m gonna follow your guide there and I’ll keep you updated on how it turns out. how’s streetabillity with spring rates over 400lbs?
You’re probably fine with the stock shocks. Koni Yellows would be a good match. They’re also able to be rebuilt or revalved when they wear out, or you step up to stiffer springs.
Your car probably doesn’t handle like crap, just a heads up. If you can’t accurately describe how it handles, you’re not ready for tuning.
oh… I’ll be more specific… I have ALOT of body role/lean going through a corner. Also Coming up to a corner and braking, my front dives pretty good and my rear end gets light. To say the least it is uncomfortable to drive around a corner at high speeds, the car feels very un-stable… like driving a car with low air in all tires… only I have good pressure in all mine… Is that better? I’m not new to driving, I’ve done auto x and ALOT of running in my subaru back in the day… But that was a different animal. I was looking for good advice on setups that work for a da9. This hopefully will be my first year on an actual track though.
What do you mean by the rear end getting light? How long does it stay ‘light’?
What brand of the upper front arm would you recommend to get?
My suspension feels a bit spongy. Like during initial braking and into a corner all the weight goes to the front… And that makes turn in kinda tricky cause I feel like my back end is braking loose, almost like I’ve given it a flick in a rwd car and broke the tires loose. Obviously not though. once on the gas the weight evens out a bit but my backend still feels like it’s not planted at all. To me it feels like I am in a corner too hard and my rear end wants to slide out… But this isn’t even cornering moderatly… we are talking about taking 45 mph corners at 60- what I’m looking as far as results is more of a stiff, gokart inspired feelling… I would like my car to stay as rigid and planted as possible, cause right now, if I take a hard right my rear feels like it’s about to pass me on the left. does that make sense?
^ We all want that go kart feeling but do you want to invest the $10,000 in suspension parts to make it work? Because what you want doesn’t come cheap. I think for a beginner you might be worrying about it too much. Infact, it’s good the rear slides a bit, if I where you I’d learn to control it instead of getting rid of it because that’s the sign your car gives you when you’re driving at it’s limits. There’s this thing called slip-angle, look it up.
If you want to breath new life into your suspension, replace the balljoints and bushings. Since there aren’t many options for us DA owners as far as bushings, I’d go with OEM rubber just because you won’t have to worry about it for a long time after you install it. As opposed to Poly which you would have to change every year or two if you actually drove your car hard because it develops play being that it is a form of plastic. I’d stay away from that. The bushings should take away the spongy feeling, it did when I completed my suspension overhaul on my DC. After that, just drive it.
Body lean and roll is good, without it you’ll loose traction and spin out. Unless you’re an advanced driver, you want some body roll and lean because it’s what tells you where you are as far as limits are concerned.
I see. to me it feels like too much role. but I can understand the need for it. My odometer has 198K miles on it… i have NO idea when any of the suspension parts or bushings were replaced. So I’ll replace all bushings and hopefully it feels better then it does now. As far as suspension, I think I’ll upgrade my shocks, I have a set of adjustable coils sleeves to go with, then I’ll prob. do rear sway and just some body rigidity stuff… That will more then likely be plenty of stuff for my car for a first year suspension set up.
You’re basically on stock suspension even with the H & R springs, the rates aren’t that much different from stock so just imagine a 200,000 mile 20 year old car that most likely hasn’t been serviced in the bushings dept, on stock shocks with just some drop springs that up the rate maybe 100 lbs front and back? It’s going to roll a lot. If you have experience driving like you say and you want to get rid of some roll then upgrade your spring rates and get off the shelf Koni Yellows. What spring rates you choose you’ll have to research for yourself but 500lb and 400lb is a good place to be to start eliminating some roll. However, the roll you’re feeling is normal with the suspension you’re on. Your shocks are probably blown, I wouldn’t be surprised if they were, it would cause more roll because they won’t be rebounding properly.
IDK if you know about this but:
If you want to do a little test to see if your struts are blown, uninstall one of the struts/spring assemblies and take the spring off. Then, take the strut in your hand and place the top of the shaft onto the ground. Then, push or compress it against the ground as far as you can. When you lift it up the shaft should slowly come back up, if it stays down, they’re blown.
Woah, how’s it going Patrick? It’s Joe from Chicago. How’s life in Japan? Did you go back to working for Honda or did you make the jump to Nissan like you were talking about?