Automatic Shifter Problem - Due to Cold Weather

shiet. this morning i just took my ignition key off the ring and locked the car with the alarm on and the key in it. it’s too cold at 5:30 in nor*cal to fight with my DA. :roll:

forgot to post, but i did this a long time ago, used some q-tips with rubbing alcohol and put some new die-electric grease on, works like a charm, when its really cold it still takes like 30 seconds max, whereas before it would be like 6 or so minutes.

:whew: I thought I was the only DA driver who had that problem with the P light not coming on for a while

got a questions about this regreasing. how much do you put and where does it go.

just rub some on there like a lube so it doesn’t dry up and rust or get muddy.
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1307545#post1307545

Hello to all, (first post)

I just purchased the neutral safety switch from a local Acura dealer for my dad’s 92 Integra RS. He’s had this problem for a couple of years and finally told me about it. With the age of the car I just figured that would be enough. Now, this may be a weird situation and becuase I don’t drive my dad’s car, after I assembled and put everything back to together, we seem to hear a bit of a creak from the engine when it shifts between neutral and drive. When we lifted the hood I never realized how much the engine “tilts” when you shift. Only now my dad is saying it makes a noise when it didn’t before. I know it rained today and have no idea if that effected things. If someone could possibly let me know whether this sounds like there could be a connection, or is this just my dad noticing a sound that’s been there all along.

Cheers and thanks for your help in advance.

damn i was am having the exact same problem on my 93… but i am also haveing the problem going into D… it works fine in S and everything else thanks for everyone with tips i was hoping to find this stuff out and did no problem!!!

Thanks

Thank goodness for this thread I was going mad.:auto: :clap:

Same issue here, besides the little P light not turning on and the key stuck on the ignition. I also have noticed a little noise /chrip /sound coming from underneath the car. It usually does it only when the car is cold & when I engage D for the first time of the day. It goes away after 10MPH

i found this problem… it us due to the grease used to lube a spring getting sticky!!! take the console apart and remove the switch on the passenger side and disassembale it… there is a little plastic sliding piece inside of there that has two metal pices in it… the smaller one has a spring behind it that has some sticky grease, i took it apart and thurouly cleaned it with dawn dish soap, the spring, metal connector, and the plastic piece… i did that about a month ago and havent had a single problem since!!!

This as a great fix to the automatic shifter problem! Just make sure to clean the plastic pieces and copper pieces throughly and use the dielectric grease to re-grease the moving parts. These pieces were sticky and grimy on mine and now are working much better. Thanks for the info G2ic!

will white lithium grease do the same thing as dielectric?

ive been reading this thread and I was wondering if it was the same problem with the trans shifting to third and fourth???

this thread is going to be helpful since winter is on it’s way and i jus picked up a :auto:

i used to carry two keys with me in the winter cause the one set would get stuck and i would be late for work or school, risky but it worked

[SIZE=“3”]Thank You for all the help with this issue, i was carrying 2 keys with me as well for 2 years.

It took me an hour to fix the problem.[/SIZE]

I have the same problem with the stuck key and glad there are others here that know the fix. I too was wondering which of the wires to cut from the ignition? I removed the cover and can see 2 sets of 2 wires underneath the ignition switch. One set looks to be red/white for both, the other pair is blue/white and green/yellow(?).

does anyone know which wire in the above picture needs to be cut? anyone??? thanks

hey guys just did this job…went really well…the only thing that i need to add is to remove the glove box as well, if you want to keep ur metal clips that is lol… i bought the new switch…cost me $60 CAN…that including taxes. also you dont need to removed your after market sterio. any question ask. thanks.