Bump again because I’m about to do this swap and need all of the info I can get.
ok, i looked in here, and did a search on whatever i thought would bring it up, maybe i just missed it, but i was wondering, would my B18A1(hooked up to a auto trans.) i got now, work with a 5 sp. trans? i’d think it would since i was gonna tear it down and rebuild it, but had to ask first
That’s what this whole thread is all about. Everything you need to know about converting your b18a auto to a 5 speed is in here.
well i had a few shops in town say if i did this swap from auto to 5 speed i would have to buy a b18a1 that was hooked to a 5 speed trans…thats why i didnt know if you guys just bought a trans or bought the motor as well…
The reverse light instructs and pix are courtesy of Kaab, since I haven’t hooked mine up yet.
If you look at your transmission you will see
your reverse light switch. It has two wires connected to it. One is green
and the other is yellow. (check pic) Connect a wire from the yellow wire on
the switch to the green wire with a black stripe under your center console.
(check pic) Connect the green wire from the reverse switch to the bottom
black wire with a yellow stripe. (check pic)
anyone have the pics that this part is referring to?
Hey guys, I have all the wiring done and everything is working perfect except for cruise. The sensor on the clutch pedal----Black obviously to ground, but where does that pink wire go? Does it go to the 10p connector by the shifter or does it go to the cruise unit somewhere? It doesn’t say anywhere in this thread clearly where the pink wire goes. Just need clarification, thanks
Hmm, for some reason the interlock and neutral safety switch are not jumped on my obd0 conversion and everything works fine. It didn’t look like any of the colors codes were correct for obd0. I didn’t have any diagrams for the car, so I wired the clutch switch through a relay on the start wire at the plug and everything works fine. Long story short I only jumped the start wire (essentially) and the key comes out and the car starts as it should.
I figured it out***The pink cruise wire from the clutch sensor goes to the pink wire on the 10 pin plug at the shifter area. Just tried it and it works perfectly. 90 GS 4 dr converted to manual with everything working like stock. BEEEE YOOO TIFULL
Do you have a pic of how you wired it at the pedal? I haven’t got mine hooked up yet. I’m thinking I need to cut the connector off of a 5 speed and use that to wire in.
i put my pedals in in about 3 hours by myself. i didnt pull the whole dash. just dropped the steering column and all wiring and heater ducts.
forgot to put the ducts back in though and too lazy to pull everything back out so now my left side vent is useless.
also just fyi, im doing my swap in two parts. i did my pedals last sunday and have been driving around like that till i do the rest this sunday. i did this cuz its my double D and i couldnt be without a car till i did the tranny swap part
hey just wondring a quik question i didnt have the egr valve thing on my car since i swapped the motor for a manual one(didnt come wih the egr)and wasted gas like crrrrraaaazzzzyyyyyyyy well i since installed the old manifod with the egr and got 5speed ecu for free will that help my wasting gas/bckfire problems?? Also heard that if i wanted my car tonever backfire again or run perfectly i would also have to change the wiring harness…is this true?or is it the same just running the intake manifold with th egr vale and 5speed ecu?I also paid 250 for my whole swap to be installed!! muhahahha but paid like 2k in parts -.- i love my car but if i could go back in time i would of just sold it and bought a manual teggy…
Something doesn’t seem right. If I’m not mistaken, the EGR isn’t used in a manual set up.
it isnt thats why i put m ld manifold with the egr valve on it bak on.Because without it i was getting like 15mpg maybe worse!! tomorrow im changing the intake manifold gasket hopeully everything runs correctly!I also had a problem that my motor sat to high and didnt have the front motor mount so it ripped my driver side mount andmade my axles pop out so i just added more washers today and the motor sits level and put the window welded front motor mount back on and windowelded the driverside motor mount hopefully i have no more problems!!
me too kinda, i had one jack and a siccor lift. it was hard as hell manuvering the tranny up in there cuz my jack is short but with a few blocks of wood and some blood and sweat i got it lol
but it was all worth it
i am getting ready to do this swap. i paid 550 for a custom built trans, 180 for the 5spd parts. i am also doing an ls-vtec conversion, obd0-obd1 conversion, with a chipped p30 with a 4k 2 step and 8.5k revline, and i am putting a DC rear seat in, as well as full black interior conversion(it was blue). my question is how do i wire my clutch in so my 2 step will work properly and also not start unless i push the clutch in? and i got cruise compatable pedals do i need to get a plug for it to work or will the one off my auto pedals plug in and work??
amyone???
this should be a TegTip
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Hope some of the experts are still monitoring this thread. I started my auto to manual yesterday. It includes a number of other items that I am doing at the same time. My question relates to the business of removing the pedal assembly. Some say the dash board should come out, while others say not necessary just remove the heater duct. From what I have done so far, I think removing the heater duct would do it. I was able to remove the top bolt of the pedal assembly by prying the heater duct aside. I cannot see any way of getting the heater duct out without breaking it. Am I missing something? I have the pedal assembly bolts and nuts out but the brake push rod prevents me from removing the assembly. Would appreciate some ideas from guys who have done it. My steering column is completely out as is the gauge cluster. Thanks.