axel/castle nut removal

hey i am following the chilton’s manual/the autozone guide to removing my engine from my previous integra to rebuild and put into my new one. I followed most of the steps and got kind of far but now i have to remove the damper fork nut and pinch bolt, and get to removing the lower ball joint castle nut…blah blah blah…i tried many times but i cant take either of these nuts of. i am not sure what i am doing wrong. any suggestions or steps you know i might have overlooked? or is there a better guide i should follow rather than this one.

thats the guide i am following right now…i just feel so stuck…so any advice would be helpful. thanks

i dont understand what you are trying to remove. the axle nut? the castle nut from the lower ball joint? fork?

Given that you live up north… and the bolts in question have been exposed to years of corrosion (especially during the winter), you may be looking at something hard.

First, try some GOOD penetrating oil… the oil will “eat” up some of the corrosion and hopefully let you break them loose. You may also need a bigger breaker bar to put more torque on them (I have seen people use 36" break bars on some suspension pieces).

You did remove the cotter pin right:think:

dfwblackls said, penetrating oil, let it sit for a day and jsut keep sraying it every couple of hours, as for that stuborn castle nut. air tools my friend the only way to go.:wink: if you dont have any, and cant get any. braker bar is you only option

i used wd40 but i used it only once or twice on the part…i guess ill use more. is oil going to work better? as per what i am trying to remove…its the axel nut which in the manual is called the castle nut…unless i am confusing the two. but i also need to remove the bolt for the fork…i will keep you guys updated if i make any progress.

The nuts that hold on the Lower ball joint and stering tie rod are castle nuts the large nut in the center of the hub on the axel is refered to as the spindel nut.:up:

ahh, okay, i get it now. wd-40 isnt the right stuff to be using, however. that basically acts as a light grease, what you want is a rust penetrant, like Liquid Wrench. There are others, but applying a penetrant like that plus time and leverage will break anything free. good luck!

ok i got the “castle nuts” out and the damper fork is free. i kept refering to the spindle nut as the castle nut…thanks blkack1 for clearing that up. however i still cant free the CV joint. as i was reading the idea i got was that the halfshaft can come apart easily. i dont need that because i plan to put that engine in another car, so can i just remove the mounts and try pulling out the engine and hopefully the halfshaft will come off itself OR do i haveeeee to take of the halfshaft first?

i would say as long as you have both axels off. just leave the half shaft and pull it out along with the motor.


BTW anytime bro. :wink: