Long story short, I even went back to the original LS ECU and distributor and still have nothing but the engine turning over. We pulled out a plug and it is sparking, but there is absolutely no sign that there is any combusition.
The only variable that I didnt have with my B18 is the fuel system, which was upgraded to an AEM fuel rail, regulator, and RC 270cc injectors. There doesnt seem to be a lot of fuel on the plugs so that may be the problem but I’m not sure how to go about fixing it.
I have checked all electrical connections and they are all fine.
try pulling the clips off your injectors. then, connect a small led to the terminals and try to start your engine. if the bulbs flash, then there should be fuel there.
Next try re-installing your stock injectors and see if that helps.
Did the check and there is no power that I could read going to the injectors. I have no idea how this could be, as the car ran prefectly before, and I am now trying to get it started with the original ECU and distributor. Again, the only variable besides the motor itself is the fuel rail, regulator and injectors, as well as a fuel pressure gauge, which is reading 40psi at the fuel filter. I took a look at the plugs and they have obviously not seen any fuel yet as they look exactly as they did out of the box, and are not wet and don’t smell like fuel. What do I do next???
What kind of injectors are you using? Are they high or low impedance. In other words, did you order them for a 1st gen non obd B16A or as something for an OBD1 car?
They are OBD1 as I am using my B18 wiring harness. It’s not the injectors though because I swapped them out for my original B18 injectors just to make sure. Same problem.
Undo all other accessories goin to the battery…ie amps, foglights, etc. I had the same problem with my ls-v, it turned out that the wire goin to the amp was grounding out (must have sliced it during install of motor).
Since we talking about ground straps…have u checked the 1 thats goes on the tranny?
Thanks for the reply, but I don’t have anything else going to the battery. The trans ground strap is attached. The only thing that I have as far as a ground that is not factory is for the knock sensor and VTEC pressure switch, which I grounded on the bolt that is on the thermostat housing that holds the bracket for the wiring harness that goes on to the fuel injectors. Of course, now that I have written that out, it doesn’t seem like the greatest place for a ground since it holds the bracket for the wiring harness but could that really matter? I’ll find out first thing tomorrow morning by just moving it to the where the other wires are grounded to the thermostat housing. Unless someone has a better suggestion or other ideas. Thanks
Sounds like there is probably some kind of power problem to the injectors. You have an obd1 ecu so i can direct you to systematically check and isolate the problem.
There are a number of things that it could be
You will need a test light, hopefully you have one.
1 First thing to check is power at the injectors
There is an electronic connecter on the drivers side fire wall
along with two or three other multi wire electronic connecters
It is the one that doesn’t look like it’s plugged to anything.
It is easily identifiable, a gray connecter with about 5-10 yellow wires with black strips. This is a power distrbution connecter.
Make sure the distrubution part is in place
Turn the ignition to the on position
Pull off the #1 injector connecter and check for +12 volts at the yellow wire with the black strip. All injecors have a yellow wire with a black strip. This supplies the power to the injectors.
The wire suppling the gray power distrbution connecter is not suppling the proper 12v power supply it requires. All 4 injectors
a few additional sensors depend on this power for the engine to run.
The quickest thing you can try is to run a seperate wire from an ignition switched power source to any one of the yellow/blk wires on the power distrubution connector and see if that works. Remember, the seperate wire you will run must supply power with the ignition switch on and while the motor is cranking. Some electronic devices switch off while cranking to give all power frfom non engine electronic components like the heater and radio to the starter.
I did the test, although I’m not sure that I did it correctly. I pulled the number 1 injector connector off and checked power at the distribution connector. The distribution connector had power at the yellow/black wire that doesn’t have a yellow wire directly across from it. All the other wires have mates, and none of those had power. I’m not sure exactly what this has shown me though.
Also I rerouted the ground for the knock sensor and VTEC pressure switch. It made no difference, the car still won’t start.
OK you have power at the distribution connector
Each injector is run by a two wire connector.
All the yellow/wires with a black strip have a 12V+ when the ignition is in the on position
This should be the colours of the wires for each injector
12V+ Ground from ECU
Injector #1 Yellow/black Brown
Injector #2 Yellow/black Red
Injector #3 Yellow/black Blue
Injector #4 Yellow/black Yellow
As you can see the yellow/black wires from the distrbution connector all run to the injectors. If you say the yellow/blk wire at the distrubution connector has power. It is time to check if there is 12V+ power at each injector. i will go with the assumtion that you have a test light. Connect one of the test light probes to injector #1 connector. As said earlier, each injector connecter has two wires going to it. You want to attach to the yellow/blk wire.
Next, attach the other probe to a suitable ground. Turn the ignition to the on position. There should be voltage there(12V)
Repeat steps with the other injectors.
If there is no voltage at any of the injector connecters, You obviously have a problem, but let’s see what this test tells us first.
Thanks for the guidance on wiring checks but after looking at your guide, I decided to tow it in because that is really beyond my working knowledge of the car. Anyway before having it towed, I put the RC injectors back in and unfortunately when I pulled the fuel rail off one the studs came completely out, and then stripped as I put it back in. The mechanic has the car running but needs to fix the fuel rail mounting stud before I can drive it. And to top it off, he is booked three weeks in advance. By the way, he called and said that it wouldn’t start because the cam timing was off. Anyway I will post pics after I get it back, whenever that may be.
did you hook up the resistor box? It’s in the upper right hand corner, looks kind alike a heat sink. See if it’s connected. If that’s not connected your injectors will get no power.