Most people say dont swap the b16 into the gen2 but others say the b16 is comparable to the b17, less 4 bt/lb tq. Well my question is if 92-93 gsr’s run 15.2 - 15.3 stock and i see 94-95 gsr’s running mid 15. How is this possible? So a stock b16 in a gen2 integra will take a 94 gsr? thanks
a stock teg with a stock b16 will not take a stock g3 gsr ,if both drivers are good drives the g3 will when the b18c has 170 hp 124 lbs of torque the b16 is 160 and 110 of torque yes are cars are slightly lighter but the g3 will win add some bolt ons for the b16 a you have a good race
LS is the way to go unless you’re planning on spending big bucks.
Originally posted by E-DA9
LS is the way to go unless you’re planning on spending big bucks.
i don’t know- i’m tired of getting passed in third gear.
Originally posted by TIroneous
i don’t know- i’m tired of getting passed in third gear.
I’ve dumped less than $2000 Canadian (around $1300 US) and I can keep up with a B18C1 G3 GSR with IHE through 3rd and halfway through 4th (we let off after that, did it like 5 times) I pulled on him before his vtec came on…(we started at 3rd gear, 4000rpm)then he kept the distance.
I haul B16 Civic Si’s anyday…again, proven on the highway. (fairly stock B16…but AGAIN…how much $$$ you have?)
And how much is a B16/B17 swap? MORE than that…and I’ll SMOKE you. I don’t care…3rd gear, 4th gear…where the vtec motor starts to shine on the highway…no problem.
UNLESS you’re planning on spending big bucks, like I said…get a set of Toda Spec Bs, valvetrain, etc…THEN you’re vtec is fast.
But if you got like say $2000 to spend, you’re better off building your current LS.
If you have $5000 to spend, then thatz a different story.
You understand?
Since most of the talk on the board is about building VTEC motors, enlighten us some (for those of us who are young to this chassis) as to what type of BUILD is required to make an LS fast. I would much rather run my LS than have to swap everything…
Casey
E-da9 Question?
If you spend $2500 on a stock b18a/b teggy and $2500 on stock b16a/a2 teggy which one will be faster?
I’m not trying to sound cynical but i want your opinion.
Because if I’m reading correctly it will be a waste off time hookin a b16 up.
Originally posted by MR VTEC
[B]E-da9 Question?
If you spend $2500 on a stock b18a/b teggy and $2500 on stock b16a/a2 teggy which one will be faster?
I’m not trying to sound cynical but i want your opinion.
Because if I’m reading correctly it will be a waste off time hookin a b16 up. [/B]
Ummmm…you’re forgetting the cost of installing that B16 in the Teg (engine and labour). That’s Max’s point.
Oz
Originally posted by Texas25RS
[B]Since most of the talk on the board is about building VTEC motors, enlighten us some (for those of us who are young to this chassis) as to what type of BUILD is required to make an LS fast. I would much rather run my LS than have to swap everything…
Casey [/B]
building an LS motor is gonna be exactly the same as building a vtec motor. there are basic things you are gonna want to do, like:
-raise compression
-if you’re in it for the long haul…full rebuild
-good set of cams
-head work
-bolt ons
-fuel/engine management (fpr, v-afc/s-afc, chipped ecu…)
-…etc… Its just which specific parts you will get are of course gonna be for a non vtec motor and it will depend on what you want out of your motor.
You said you’d much rather run the ls than do a swap… well, if you’re ready to really build a motor the LS is no easier to build. You’re gonna be pulling the motor, rebuilding it and putting it back together in either instance.
Max is 100% correct that if you only got a little to spend then you should stay non vtec. You can dump a couple grand into your stock motor and it’ll spank gsr’s easy. And otherwise a couple grand is only gonna get you a b16a swap and some bolt ons. Still if you’ve got $5000 its a toss up, it sorta depends on what you want, how stock or how modified of a motor you want, and how long you plan on building for. If you’re the kind of guy who plans on building the motor continuously, i’d recommend vtec. there is a lot more potention for the future. with the LS you just reach a point where you can’t mod it anymore and have it streetable. There are SO many factors that go into what motor you should pick…do some reasearch (and by reaseach i mean read other posts, look at others setups… know what you’re doing before you start building).
another thing to consider is mileage. most of us have fairly high miles on our stock motors. which means if we want to get any real performance out of them we will have to rebuild them completely. This is the point i got to. I could have rebuilt my 195k mile b18a, or rebuild a b17a. The cost of the rebuild would be exactly the same in both instances, maybe even less for the b17a. So, for that and other reasons i chose to go b17a.
also, max got some real good deals on his parts and labor. I know my rebuild cost me a lot more than his. My block work alone was $1050. another $330 to rework the head, $400 or so for oem replacement gaskets, timing belt…etc Max, you got the hookups!
people mostly get b16 to replace there hi mileage tired ls motors, i mean i ust to hang with gsr with my old ls setup
jg tbody
jg 301 cams
aem cam gears
dc 4-2-1 header
greddy exhaust
akimoto intake
my car was dynoed at 136 hp and 126 lbs of torque after tuning after that i picked up a b16 tranny with lsd and act clutch the car was pretty quick i coul finally beat gsr and alot of other cars , well a few months later the 3rd gear went out in the tranny and the motor had around 140 k on it instead of rebuilding the the tranny and rebulding the ls motor i opted to a b18c longblock with 40 k miles and another b16 tranny after selling my old ls stuff i really paid around 1500 out of my pocket for the full gsr swap
Originally posted by E-DA9
[B]I’ve dumped less than $2000 Canadian (around $1300 US) and I can keep up with a B18C1 G3 GSR with IHE through 3rd and halfway through 4th (we let off after that, did it like 5 times) I pulled on him before his vtec came on…(we started at 3rd gear, 4000rpm)then he kept the distance.
I haul B16 Civic Si’s anyday…again, proven on the highway. (fairly stock B16…but AGAIN…how much $$$ you have?)
And how much is a B16/B17 swap? MORE than that…and I’ll SMOKE you. I don’t care…3rd gear, 4th gear…where the vtec motor starts to shine on the highway…no problem.
UNLESS you’re planning on spending big bucks, like I said…get a set of Toda Spec Bs, valvetrain, etc…THEN you’re vtec is fast.
But if you got like say $2000 to spend, you’re better off building your current LS.
If you have $5000 to spend, then thatz a different story.
You understand?
[/B]
very true. BTW it was a b16 hb that totally romped me in 3rd. IMO- you have to love the sound of vtec engagment and reving high. I have only put 100$ into my ls (check profile). My car is mildly gutted. I hung with a g3 gsr with exhaust (he had like 18" rims). I’m curious- what do you think about a turbo b16a? IMO it would be a nice setup because you wouldn’t get as much wheel spin, hence better 1/4 etc.
Personally I love my B17, VTEC kicks @$$ but in your case you might think of doing LS/VTEC or a turbo set up. Personally I think you will get more for your money if you keep your LS and build it.
i want a b18c1…plus, i hate to say it, but i’d like to have a g3.
the four lights don’t bother me much, and if i start to get tired of it, dump a few paychecks into a JDM conversion.
dont the 94-95 GS-Rs weigh only 2560 instead of 2650? I think i read that on edmunds…
Originally posted by red GSR
dont the 94-95 GS-Rs weigh only 2560 instead of 2650? I think i read that on edmunds…
I always thought the G3 was heavier than that because of strengthened support beams and such.
:shrug:
Oz
I agree with Max, build the LS motor is you’re a little strapped for funds. After I bought my car I only had about $2,000 and slowly started modding my LS. Well I worked and stuff and have just kept putting money into my LS. I don’t regret any of it. VTEC is fun, but I’ve driven/ridden in VTEC cars and although it is fun, you don’t really feel the pull on your body like in my car. If I floor it in 1st gear, my head gets whipped back and that is fun. Many VTEC engines lack that torque.
Plus it’s fun having a quick car that shouldn’t be quick since it doesn’t have VTEC.
-=which is faster?
LS
GS
GS-R
94 and up GS-R
=-to be honest.. I’m lost in this post.
which is faster? is it not the 92-93 GS-R [stock] compared to a GS or LS [strickly 2nd genz] ?
Also.. it seems that HONDA feels that the VTEC motors are more tuneable..as opposed to the non VTEC motors.
Though.. the LS block with a longer stroke and a bigger bore. makes more torque.. the motor is not what they call a “square motor” The ideal motor is a “square” motor.. where the stroke in mm is = to the bore in mm. Example: the 92-93 GSR motor is 81mm bore x 81.4mm stroke. This is a very rare motor.. where other motors are usally reworked to achieve these specs.
Ok.. enough of my babbling.
IMO.. the VTEC motors are far superior to the basic LS motors {look @the cars posting the lowest et’s} and are much more efficient as performance engines.. {the REAL TIME integras}
-ducks and tries to crawls out of the room.
For some odd reason, I don’t believe in swapping a B16 motor into an integra because I feel as if it would be a downgrade. If I were to do a swap, it would have to be a B18C1 or B18C5 only because of how it’s built. Now if you want to do what Max is saying, that is true to an extent…
Building up an LS motor is only good if your LS doesn’t have too many miles on it. Say our cars, which is a B18A vs a B18B. Both are LS but one is newer than the other. Now if your B18A is shot/ruined, what are you going to do? Is it really worth putting in a newer B18B or would you rather fork over the extra $$$ to purchase a B18C?
I believe that if your really into buiding an engine as a hobby, then an LS is the way to go. It’s challenging and rewarding if you can build an all motor engine that’ll spank the crap out of most cars out there. But if your going to do an engine swap, why not get the best that is out there rather than settling for something that is only second best? Just my .02.
i like the b16 motor just not in or cars cause our cars are heavy , the b16 is great in crx with bolt ons and a b16 you are running mids 14s in a crx or civic hb since there so light are cars weight alot more
but the b16 is very identcal to the b17 (that comes in the da 92-93 gsr) but the b17 has a better crank and is a 1.7 litot compared to 1.6 there is only 10 horsepower in diffrence and torque is the same
since the b17a motor are very rare thats why people go for b16 in or tegs to have vtec low mileage engine and reasonable price i the b16 has better horsepower potential than the ls ,but the ls motor has more torque
personally i like the b18c b18c5 and b16b motors yeah there more expensive but there the best out of the bunch ,but if you are a budget like most of us are here =) i rather have a b16 then spend 1200-2k building the ls , if i ever built a ls it would be for ls vtec even though im not big on ls vtec ,
another option is to keep the ls motor find a good price on some crower cams and gears and run a 50-80 shot of nos (the ls motor can take nos pretty well my friend sqeezed for over a year 80-100 shot direct port no problems (but sooner or later the rings will wear on u but N2O is fun
Originally posted by 1992gs206
[B]
Building up an LS motor is only good if your LS doesn’t have too many miles on it. Say our cars, which is a B18A vs a B18B. Both are LS but one is newer than the other. Now if your B18A is shot/ruined, what are you going to do? Is it really worth putting in a newer B18B or would you rather fork over the extra $$$ to purchase a B18C?
I believe that if your really into buiding an engine as a hobby, then an LS is the way to go. It’s challenging and rewarding if you can build an all motor engine that’ll spank the crap out of most cars out there. But if your going to do an engine swap, why not get the best that is out there rather than settling for something that is only second best? Just my .02. [/B]
I bleew my motor before…the money I listed above included rebuilding it from bottom up.
and g2inteegrity is right. When I let my car have a rolling start and then floor it, I can still squeal thee tires.
(as in easily letting thee clutch out all the way, THEN floor it)
It just pulls from low rpm right to 73500rpm.
Again it’z all about money. Thatz’ what it comes down to. If you got $5000 - $6000, you can build a FAST NA vtec
but if you got $3000, build an LS and you’ll spank a teg which spent $2000 swapping a B16 in and $1000 gettin IHE adn stuff…
(CANADIAN FUNDS)
one thing I’m emphasizing is how much money you havee.
well hell, if you have the MONEY get a b18c/c5 motor. Can you imagine the power if you put high cpr pistons, rods, bottom end balanced, ctr/jun cams 9k+redline, port polish job, itr(high flow) intake manifold, dc header, nice exhaust, VAFC, fpr, msd, and a 65 shot of nitrous!!!.. .:bowdown: sorry i got carried away.