i was wondering wat would be a cheaper to do should i go and do a jdm b16a swap or just build a b18a1…thanx
It depends on what you mean by ‘build a B18a1’.
Aftermarket Rods: $400
Aftermarket Pistons: $400
Machine Work to recondition block, weight-balance rotating assembly, valve job, etc: $600+
Cams/Springs/Retainers: $600+
Price to Assemble Motor: $500
Head Studs… Main Studs… All new bearings/seals: $350+
So right there you’re already at $2850… These are rough estimates, but it would probably end up being more than that…
You could probably find a decent swap for that price. Though there is nothing like having a zero-mile motor, it doesn’t come cheap. If you aren’t ready to dump some cash into the motor and BUILD IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, you’re probably better off buying a used motor, whether built or stock.
i would go all motor b18a1 high compresion or low compresion if u wanna go turbo it will preaty much cost u about the same if u buy a stock b16.
People say that B16’s torque sucks on a Integra…
Stay with the B18, or get a B20Z…
i got an 1991 xsi with b16a and xsi tranny, still passing up b18a-b on highway
high-revving motors with short gear’d transmissions better pass low-revving motors with long ass gears on the highway.
There is no replacement for displacement, as the domestic heads will say. If you’re used to the torque of a b18, and go to a b16, you might second guess the potential of a b16. My brothers fully-built b16 (81.5mm bore, head work, skunk 2 pro 1 cams, very high compression, etc) is only pushing 115wtq… A completely stock LS will put that same power down. But up in the high end is where the b16 shines.
It really depends on what you’re wanting out of you car and what you plan to do with it.
yeah i know what you mean i have an 92 rs b18a1 and a 1991 xsi b16a still b16a kicks are alot more fun then the torque of the b18a1. But still the b18a1 is fun to powershift with their tq
just get a 16 vtec head and pistons and a hone mabie a bit more butin that area youll be happy or always just turbo what ya got
Ls vtec is always the way if you do it right
I never liked the torque curve the B16 has, I would spend the money building your B18A1. B16 should be left for EF chassis.
the bad part bout the ls-v is it bleeds alot no matter what head gasket u put on it thats the only down fall on them other than that there the shit its like having a type r but with more torque
x2 for leaking headgaskets on the ls/vtec. i found this stuff at my local parts store that you put on the headgasket before installing it. it’s some thick brown stuff. i know another guy with a ls/vtec that used the same product or similiar and his does not leak anymore.
If you’ve built an lsvtec (or had one built) and its leaking, then something was done wrong. 90% of the time its the wrong headgasket being used… but as long as the head & deck of the block are level, and you use a vtec headgasket (with correct dowell placement)… then it should NOT leak. Also people try to use the non-vtec distributor and cut one of the legs off (as it doesn’t line up with the bolt hole & gets in the way of the vtec solenoid) and that also results in an oil leak.
As I said if things are assembled correctly and the right parts are used, an lsvtec motor should not leak oil.
edit
Many people endorse using Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket on the headgasket… it actually does a good job at sealing small scuffs and scratches that could potentially cause a leak… just dont use a lot of it as chunks may find their way into the motor.
my head and block were machined and i had the correct dowel placement with a vtec gasket and it leaked a bit near the distributor. it’s rare that i’ve seen one that doesn’t leak but it does happen. im putting a new one together soon so im going to try that spray.
I cant say that im totally experienced and have ‘seen it all’… But i’ve been told that most of the time its the wrong gasket that causes leakage. did you use an OEM one? Either way, that spray-a-gasket is some good stuff. I know a few people that use it on every rebuild, weather ‘built’ or just a regular rebuild. Hopefully you have no issues with the next one 
oem honda type-r headgasket. and my oil passage was welded shut. it was very small though but it’s hard to get rid of for some reason. definitely going to use that spray stuff on the next one.