b17 build up

i have a 92 gsr(just bought it) and wanna have some input and if you could any articles about power numbers, adv and disadvantages on building my b17…b16 is not a choice and if i went with anything else it would be a b18c1, which would drain my wallet. should i save for the b18c( which i would expect running mid 14s with it) or build the b17 for bigger and better things…ideas, shortcuts, and tricks/ tips are wanted tremendously from my part from ANYONE with Bseries experience…i work at a honda/acura shop but just wanna see what others have in mind

my thoughts so far…build from the ground up…clean block and install JDM/USDM b16a pistons (somewhere around 10.75 CR with usdm, 11.0 with JDM i think) and then run it with that until i save for a good head package (JUN, TODA, ETC)…are b17 rods weak? i hear of a couple of people blowing them…what should be replacement…B16B?:cool: i know theyre the BESTTTTTTTTTT…thank you to anyone who is actually going to take their time helping me

well, i don’t have much to say, mostly because your question is really broad. The decision between building the b17a or swappinga b18c is tough…there are MANY factors to consider there.

I will say this though:

  1. You are correct about the piston compression ratios (10.73:1 for the pr3 and 10.94:1 for the p30).

  2. The b17a rods are not weak, they have failed in a couple people’s motors…but really why is not known, it could even have nothing to do with the strength of the rod itself. Just to be safe i had mine shot peened. Basically you have 3 options: 1) Use the stock rods… 2) Get the stock rods shot peened… 3) Get some aftermarket rods. Personally i think that aftermarket rods are a a bit extravagant and dont warrant the extra price tag unless you’ll be boosting. Plus aftermarket rods for the b17a are harder to find than rods for other b series motors. Typically honda vtec rods are VERY strong…plenty strong for NA applications. I went ahead and shot peened mine just for the added security, i was torn whether or not to do it though. The b16b rods will NOT work in your motor. The only rods that will work are b17a rods, rods for other motors are going to be different lengths.

Lastly, there is no BEST setup. Its all relative. Try some searches, read up as much material as possible so you know all your options. If you have any more specific questions just let me know. I just rebuilt my b17a over the summer, and have spent over a year now studying up on the build so i’ve got a good amount of info fresh in my mind.

I would love to pick your brain sir. Also about to build mine too. Went with Brian Crower stage 3’s and RS Machine 82mm CTR pistons. Looking for some suggestions in what would be a good start for building the block? Is hot tanking good to do? Decking/Surfacing the head, micropolish the crank, shotpeend rods, clay the motor. When they mircropolish the crank are they supposed to clean it in the opposite direction? Hmm, what else did I miss? Do a mild port, port match the tb to a 70…

I wouldn’t mill/deck the block unless it is needed.

If the block or head surface is not flat, then by all means get it taken care of… but the “performance” aspect of it isn’t worth the chance of running into clearance issues. With CTR pistons you will need every bit of clearance you can get.

Hot tanking is good because it will clean all the shit from the inside of the block.

If you have an oversized throttlebody then it would definitely make sense to port-match the intake manifold.

Yup, that’s about it. Don’t worry too much about the machine work, as long as you pick a good shop they’ll know what basics to do to the block. Hot tanking for example, most places won’t even do a rebuild w/o hot tanking (they don’t want to work with dirty parts).

Awesome stuff ok good to know thanks. Sorry for stealing your thread Wethatch.