I have a 91 Integra GS with a B18a1 in it. No idea what the tranny is, but the guy I bought it from just put a stage 3 clutch in it. No idea what brand and he said he ebayed it. Anyways, I need some help on what to do with it. As of right now it has a cold air intake, ebay header with 2.5 in. piping to 3 in exhaust. A turbo kit is going to be purchased soon, but I figured I’d do some internal work first. I was thinking some crower 403 cams with valve springs and retainers. http://www.crower.com/acura-1-8-rs-ls-dohc-camshaft-price-per-pair-4348.html and http://www.crower.com/kit-honda-acura-1-8l-ls-dual-spring-chromoly-retainers.html and I havn’t decided what turbo kit to purchase yet. Anyone have any ideas? It has to be a full kit. Also anyone done this type of stuff before? What all do I need to successfully put the cams, valve springs, and retainers in?
Those cams and springs are a good idea. I recommend new valves and a port and polish. Realistically you are better off paying a shop to do all the head work if this is something you have never done before. If you just want to replace the springs and retainers yourself you will need a valve spring compressor tool witch is specific to Hondas. Its not too difficult, the factory service manual covers the procedure. The hardest part is removing and installing the head. Cams are easy to swap over. Then there is the question of replacing the stock pistons and rods. That would make it an entire engine rebuild. I hope you have deep pockets.
As for the turbo setup I’ll stay out of that debate, its not my specialty. I will however state that there is a lack of reliable major brand “kits” for our specific cars and the ebay kits suck. Also you would be wise to to do an OBD1 conversion to open up more options to tune it with.
I hope you have already read the following 2 links
http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?149402-ebay-kits-ssautochrome-xs-power-stone-mountain-racing
Good luck!:hump:
Ok man I wouldn’t p&p unless u going to be pushing 600 plusits super waste of money it could run u anywhere between 500-1000 the reason its so expensive they do a tst called a bench air flow to check if the head has the same cfm. Im working on a 18a myself. Your are going go need cp piston, eagle rods, cometic head gasket, arp head stud and rod bolts cam and cam gears. The turbo kit I got is a god speed I paid 700 for a full kit on ebay. They offer two types of ram sytle mani the first one is a cast iron which would run abt 650 and the other choice is a stainless steal mani it will run u 700. Comes with a t3/t4 turbo with is rated@ 350 plus. The olny dwn fall to the kit is the dwn pipe. Can send u pics if u would like to see the kit. Hit me up@ rtor2633@gmail.com
Airflow is airflow… a P&P helps any motor… ESPECIALLY high-revving motors or boosted applications.
Yes it is spendy, but if you’re already doing rods/pistons/cams/gears/turbo setup, what’s another $700? If you’re getting bigger cams and doing springs/retainers etc, a port & polish job makes total sense… It is only going to help those larger cams breathe better.
If its not in the budget, then its not in the budget. But to say that is a waste of money is incorrect.
U have to think if he’s going to want to push more than 600 and up. I understand that airflow is super good for a boosted motor it just depends on how much power he’s wanting to put out. With the set up im going for i should be able to push 450 @ the wheels. How much more will p&p give u?
The more that’s done to the motor, the more gains you’ll see from the P&P. 600whp+ motors aren’t the only applications in which the gains of a P&P job are seen…
As I said, if you’re planning to run bigger cams and valves, intake manifold, intake, throttlebody etc, then funnel all that air through a stock-sized intake port, you aren’t utilizing all the air-flow that you could.
A GOOD P&P on a 400whp motor could add 25whp+ if tuned. And its not just about peak-gains, the motor should feel better throughout the majority of the powerband and yield better throttle response.
Its most definitely not ‘needed’… But it does give worth-while gains.
The man makes a good point. The most expensive part of the process is the bench test. Cuz where I from they charge any where from 500-1000 I think they charge abt 36 an hr to do the tst. Its well worth if u r going all the way. I have a guy in kentucky that’s does boost by gear and he will charge abt 700 to do the tuning. Im going to be ready in the next few month the tuning is one of the most important parts for your car to be beast.
The Man absolutely has a point, although I am new to the Import car scene I come from a back ground in Motorcross and sportbikes. A good port and polish job as well as exhaust manifold to head matching will absolutely yeild gains on any motor, the difference is that on high revving and HP motors is that the gains will be more apparent. Enabling the motor to breathe and expend exhaust gasses will give smoother throttle response, quicker spool-up and better fuel consumption just as as well placed waste gate will help exhaust gas exit all 4 runners at the same time lessening back pressure and having a betterrunning system. Just my .02
All parties above make very valid points. The important thing for you is to have a goal. Before you start building you want to make sure you know where you want to end up and take into consideration being bit by the boost bug! My first forced induction build I was absolutely positive I would be 100% satisfied with the stock 7psi the supercharger would put out… well guess what, two months later I was buying a 9psi pulley, and 3 months after that I was paying big money to have a custom 14psi pulley built. The point is, dont skip on building the motor because your only going to boost 8psi, then months down the road when you want 16psi you will have to pull the motor out again. Decide on a plan and stick to it.
Having had the experience I have had and knowing what I want out of my car here is my plan for the build. I will be doing a modest stock block rebuild but adding a block guard, then placing emphasis in the head work with cams, valves, springs, port matching etc. Converting to OBD1 and running between 10-12psi. I chose that boost range for several reasons… I plan on doing some road racing and want reasonable power, not crazy mind blowing boost… and in California I am somewhat restricted on fuel options with only being able to access 91 octane at regular pumps. I am not looking for a high boost crazy horsepower 1/4 mile rocket… I am looking for a balanced car with enough torque and hp to pass unsuspecting targets on the race track… but that is MY goal and I am designing my plan around that. Like everyone else that is just my .02