B18A1 Rebuild list

Hi Im new here, and Im going all-in in my integra to rebuild my engine and to get everything new. Im getting all branded and the best parts I can get, but I need a list for my engine parts. I know some of the basic parts but I need help to get all the parts I need to get my integra running like new again. Thank you

http://forums.g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/15.html

I think there’s a list in the rebuild document. And I also think there’s dealership or maybe even eBay has rebuild kits. You can always looks at their list of things included, and buy it aftermarket parts if you’d like.

Yeah just about every parts store carries what they call a “re-ring kit”. Some come with pistons, some come without them. Prices can vary from 300 to 800 depending on which brand and what ocmponents come in the kit. Felpro is the most common kit. I would suggest reading the thread posted as well.

Good luck!

  • Brandon

Thanks for the link. So I already talked to a guy and he told me that I should just get an B16 head so that it would be faster and has more horse power. but it’s gonna cost a lot tho. He said around $3300. So what do u guys think?

I am currently building an ls/v as we speak. I did a rough cut of prices in my build thread. There is ALOT more to an ls/v than just slapping on a b16 head and going. You’re looking at right around that number actually haha.

Here’s my thread http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?212701-Axe-s-Back-From-the-Grave-Build!&p=2257395&viewfull=1#post2257395

There are a ton of write-ups for it, but to build a reliable one to actually get GOOD use out of that vtec head, its gonna cost more (but better in the long run). Those ls bottom ends were never meant to spin past 7500 RPM, and grenade easily past that. I’ll keep it short and link you to one of the best ls/v build write-ups I’ve found:

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1676914

This is a link to a parts list, although I’m unsure of it’s accuracy since it was written in '06:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1812388

Good luck! Either option is great. I was really surprised the first time I drove me b18a1 with how much torque it had. But I think I like vtec better :burnout:

  • Brandon

I was also thinking of getting a b16 head. I cant make up my mind tho. and i still need funds for my car lol. I like what your doing to your car dude. you really have plans for her haha. I wanna see this done. are you planning to tuck the wires too?

It sounds like you’re fairly new to the engine building world. So, please tread carefully if building this on your own. There is a long list of things you’ll need, and I’ll be happy to point you in the direction of most of the critical components you’ll need to replace.

So, without further ado, here goes.

  1. New main bearings (I recommend OEM, please follow the “color coding” specified in the service manual. Or ACL bearings are fine, just make sure to get the right ones)
  2. New piston rings
  3. Head gasket
  4. Oil Pump, oil pickup, etc.
  5. Timing belt, tensioner, and water pump.
  6. Cam seals and cam plug (at the left-most end of the exhaust camshaft)
  7. Main seal and other appropriate bottom end gaskets.
  8. Valve seals
  9. New bolts/studs. They aren’t really required for the build, but it’s just good practice to replace anything like that if it has a lot of miles. Bolts/studs can stretch over time, and cause spun bearings, blown head gaskets, etc. Again, this isn’t critical, but most people that do a full tear down and rebuild usually go this route. As it’s just good for peace of mind.

You also may want to have the cylinders honed by a professional machine shop, especially if you’re motor is burning oil. A good hone and new rings will go a long way to help clear most of those issues. It also couldn’t hurt to have the head decked to ensure a 100% flat mating surface on the block.

As mentioned, a B16 head swap will yield good power. But, it’s more than just putting the head on and having a coke and a smile. There is additional machine work to be done. As well as more bottom end preparation to handle the higher revs that a VTEC head needs to perform it’s best. Not to mention the additional wiring for VTEC, VTEC Oil Pressure Switch, etc. as well as needing a chipped ECU to get the car running it’s best.

Good luck, man. Hope that helps.

Youll be at least spending another 600-700 for the top end to do ls-vtec. It’s not a cheap route! And thanks man, It should be completed, running and tuned by June 30th! I wanna do a tuck, but I’ve got so much crap on my plate right now I need to get that all done first haha. I might do a mini tuck eventually, but for now, wires stay where they are :down:

As for imcnblu, he’s spot on with everything he said. It’s some intricate work making sure the motor is solid to handle those higher revs and not burn oil. Luckily alot of my friends are big into honda’s, so the research time was significantly lower haha.