b18a1 vs. b20z

which would give me more power in the long run after mods, strictly NA.

i’m pretty much broke but i’d like a clue as to where to start.

i know g2’s aren’t the ideal platform to begin on but this is the car i have now and would like to know what is the best engine of the two to put in seeing as i can not afford to fully mod a b18c5 or k20…

i’m not thinking much about the block but more so the head.
id purchase camshafts(unknown of which at present time), cam gears, springs, valves, intake mani, header, light flywheel, stage 1 clutch, and hopefully a short geared tranny…

that’s all i’d really be able to afford…
any help would be greatly appreciated.

id say b20 over the a1 but if your gonna spend that much why dont you just get a b16

well it’s because i’ve heard a lot of negative’s about it.

about the displacement and that it simply doesn’t pull “hard” enough when related to the DA chassis

Yea everyone will say it doesnt have any torque, but Ive got a jdm b16a and it pulls pretty hard. I think its a hell of a little motor. But yea if your going non vtec get the b20 and if you ever want vtec just put a head on it.

i say go with a b20 with a b16 head with a b16 trany with ls 5 gear

b20z. best non vtec flowing head. 2.0L.
what’s not to love?

what you could do, is buy a B16 swap, and then have it bored to 84mm. Won’t quite yield a 2.0L displacement, due to the block height being shorter, and the stroke is significantly shorter, but it’ll get you in the neighborhood of 1.8L

A short stroke, big bore, high revving B16 with matching B16 short geared transmission will be fun to drive :slight_smile: I’m not a fan of B16’s either, but if I ever did a B16 swap, I’d go that route, personally.

One thing to consider if you want to get a B20 is that you live in California and need to get one of those special registrations (can’t remember what they’re called) since it’s a “truck” motor and goes against the smog configuration laws or whatever.

I was considering getting a B20 and maximizing flow and compression (within daily driver/gas reason) since it does come with larger displacement and headroom to get a little more out of it. B22 anyone? :rockon:

damn…
both engines sound good. :slight_smile:

and well, v-tec or not, i can always get better camshafts to make up for the lack of flow on the b20…
but then again the b16 already has better flow stock, and with cams it’d be even better…
leave it up to Honda to leave you so indecisive lol…

One thing to consider if you want to get a B20 is that you live in California and need to get one of those special registrations

OMGA14 I had forgetten about that… i think it’s either called BARD or something like that and it needs to be taken to the Ref…
anyone have an idea how much that runs??

in any case i’ve heard a full b16 swap can cost anywhere from 1300 to 1500

anyone have any idea on a b20??..

if the numbers are somewhat parallel or even slightly off from b20 to b16 then b16 would be a no brainer…

Sorry guys i’m just hella thinking this out as i do not want to be stuck regretting the decision i made…
i’m saving up and have 700 soon to be 1100 in about a couple weeks so the time for me to purchase an engine gets closer by the day… mmmm :slight_smile:

As far as i know the B20 is illegal to put in cars in Cali. Id just get the GSR swap,but you still need to bar it no matter what. I think i payed somewhere along the line of $8.75 for the baring. Look on http://hmotorsonline.com/ That"s where i got my swap.

hmm… interesting. :read:

how much would one estimate the cost of a b20z swap[everything needed included]

illegality can always be overcomed by international plates i.e. Mexico in my case.

i’m just exploring all possibilities and seeing if a b20, on the streets or craigslist, can be dirt cheaper than a b16

honestly i’m looking to pull right now.
F my b18a1

over here in LA b20 go for 550+ tax I buy mine from s & s in city of vernon that place is cheap and they come with 6 month warranty

go with whatever costs less. the b20 isn’t much of an upgrade if at all.

^^maybe the b20b, yeah. but the z is a sweet ass engine.
p8r head flows comparable to pr3. plus 2.0.
make sure you upgrade the tranny as well though

i have a b20b with a P8R head. it sucks.

for a DA i would suggest to go nothing less than 2liter engine

find a b20z those got 146hp and 133 pound of torque, also you’ll need a sir transmission, both together will give you a good pull,

later on think about adding a vtec head but only with a b20z + short ratio transmission you gonna have lot’s of fun compare to your b18a1

I swapped from an a1 to a b20z and i absoultely love the f out of this motor. Much better torque and the motor doesnt cost as much as some other motors would. theres not really much you need to swap the z in. The mounts are the same (b series so its all there) youll need the z harness. It was pretty much a straight forward swap for me. I can totally feel the difference in the motors. Definetly torque wise.

but then again as some of the guys mentioned in here. You are from cali and truck motors are an illegal swap in the g2s. If it is, I wouldn’t risk it and go with something safe. Or just keep the a1 and rebuild that.

b16=high end torque, great if you want to rev your car all over town to feel power
b18a1= ok, kinda plain
b20b = low/mid range torque. illegal in california.

imo, I loved my b20b, but just bore out the b18 and its still legal.

Awesome info, i thought i was gonna get flamed with :search:'s
haha

over here in LA b20 go for 550+ tax

Good looking Shagy, didnt know it was that cheap of a swap…
I hate Cali laws, just last night i got a ticket for “running a red light,” shit was green going yellow lol. The cop said something about my car has to be 3/4 over the intersection i’m going into while its on yellow… WTF??? Soon as i left i ran a red light in national city just for kicks haha.

Back to the subject…
basically from what kyle10182

the b20 isn’t much of an upgrade if at all.
and cavalierdominat
for a DA i would suggest to go nothing less than 2liter engine

my plans of going either route are sort of say an “ok” with regards to a G2. on an EF,EG,C-REX, or even EJ’s either swap would be SMASHn’

sounds like i should either save up for a type-r c5 swap or rebuild my a1 like Mini said if i want to spend my money right now…

any body know someone on this site who rebuilt their a1 and posted numbers of their gains?

i say you see the judge before you pay for the ticket