i have a 90’ GS and my engine has 181k on it so it is time to shop 4 a new engine. i have looked at ls/vtech, b16a and swaping my block 4 the same 1 just new and rebuld it, but i think that i want to go with a b18c-R from jdmhondaparts.com i just want to know if any1 has gone withan engine from them and if they had any problems with it after the transplant, and if there are ne better places to look for that engine? if any1 can help me i would be very appreciative.
thanx all
I don’t know if you have or not but you should look at the engine swap guide in the teg tips that was written by Dan. He also happens to have that engine in his teg.
Just a few pointers:
Its VTEC, not V-tech
And a Type R’s engine code is B18C5. The GSR is the B18C1.
If you want relability, I would stay away from LS/VTEC. That engine can be build to be relieable, but at that point you could have taken that money and just bought a complete engine.
The B16A1 is a good little engine, but don’t forget that it is little. You’re going to feel the lack of torque and you’ll have to wind your engine out into the higher rev’s when you need to get going.
A rebuilt B18A1, you can’t go wrong there. The B18A1 has a lot of potential and if you rebuild it you’re going to be starting with a new engine. I doubt that you’re going to purchase and rebuild any of the other engines.
jdmhondaparts.com, I’ve never done bussiness with them but I’ve never heard bad things either. A really good place to buy your engine would be www.b17a.com, but Loc the owner is really busy right now and I think the site is down. If you can get through to him, check it out. He is a member of this board and many people do bussiness with him.
Anything else?
-Steve
thought you should read this before you buy from b17a.com
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1598
Have you looked at the price? It’s pretty comon opinion that you can do a more powerful hybrid buildup for less money than a Type R swap. I would do a B20 before I threwdown the cash for a Type R B18c5. Actually I would do FI on built LSVTEC, or overbored b16 (1.8L) or b17 (1.9L). But I am assuming you want to go NA. The only reason I can see to do the Type R swap is if you fall into a really awesome price.
Originally posted by B17Vortech
Have you looked at the price? It’s pretty comon opinion that you can do a more powerful hybrid buildup for less money than a Type R swap. I would do a B20 before I threwdown the cash for a Type R B18c5. Actually I would do FI on built LSVTEC, or overbored b16 (1.8L) or b17 (1.9L). But I am assuming you want to go NA. The only reason I can see to do the Type R swap is if you fall into a really awesome price.
Exactly. You can build up a B16 or B17 with R internals for a bit less than the whole B18C/C5 swap would be. That will be the biggest concencous on this board.
This is very helpful:
http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/#engineguide
jordan
lmao @ b18c-R !!!
b16Teg and Steve: The B18C-R is the JDM designation for the ITR. B18C5 is the USDM designation. That was no typo Wild Child made.
There is no “B18C-R” engien code… sorry… =/
Can someone tell me WHY they think the ls/vtec is soooo unreliable?
I have points to make here, but I will save it untill I get a repy from someone with a valid argument.
I want to see how many people assume things, or just repeat what they heard, and how many people put actual intelligent thought into their opinion.
Enlighten me. =)
-T
The actual engine code for JDM ITR motors IS B18C. Which also goes for the JDM SiG/GSR motor. The whole deal with the “B18C-R” is just to identify which B18C motor is being talked about. Calm down everyone.
Realize if you buy a complete B18C motor that you will have to sell the tranny, distributor, injectors, ecu, and axles since they will be useless to you. Plus I don’t know about spending almost $5000 for just a motor, keep in mind that you will spend another few hundered dollars just to do the swap itself into your car.
Originally posted by DAY U IZ
[B]
The B16A1 is a good little engine, but don’t forget that it is little. You’re going to feel the lack of torque and you’ll have to wind your engine out into the higher rev’s when you need to get going.
[/B]
I resent that Mr. B17A1 your motor isn’t very much different. 
Originally posted by brekekex
[B]There is no “B18C-R” engien code… sorry… =/
Can someone tell me WHY they think the ls/vtec is soooo unreliable?
I have points to make here, but I will save it untill I get a repy from someone with a valid argument.
I want to see how many people assume things, or just repeat what they heard, and how many people put actual intelligent thought into their opinion.
Enlighten me. =)
-T [/B]
Here’s why I tell people to avoid LS/VTEC. Its not that the LS/VTEC engine is unreliable, its that most of the time people want to go LS/VTEC because they think its the cheap route. This will cause them not to build the bottom end correctly and they are more likely to go to the lowest bidder when it comes to labor. That is where the “unreliable LS/VTEC” engines come from.
Unless you really trust your engine builder or you really know what you want done to the block and head so that all you have to do is tell the builder what to do, I wouldn’t suggest LS/VTEC. Plus when you do it the right way with balancing and stuff, it ends up costing quite a bit of money.
Thats all, I totally believe that LS/VTECs are reliable set ups when built correctly. Sorry for not being clear.