what would be a better swap for our tegs…b16,b18c,b20? just curious
actually i had 2 firends who have ls/vtec and both 1 cant pass smog, 2 still get beat by dc2 gsr’s and DA’s swapped /w b18c1… Frakensteins are never reliable for a DD…
either one they were just slapped together or they cant drive …its really a drivers race between the 2 …but there also could be other variables involved …and as for them not being good for daily drivers …ive seen and known many people who built them right and drive them everyday …10k+ miles a year with trips to the track and etc …
frankensteins are no good for daily drivers?
wtf are u smokin? its very easy to build an all oem b20vtec that makes 200whp and will last just as long as a stock motor.
its all about how u treat ur motor and what kind of maintainence u perform. if u beat the shit out of something every day of course its not gonna last as long as ud like. try beating on any stock motor every day and ull shorten its lifetime just like u would a built motor.
i ran a 13.9 with a tock jdm itr with intake and open header no exhaust and falken azenies i also have a act clutch to. gsr you will be in high to mid 14’s i am guessing if you can drive. i have seen really nice motor swaps run stock times. ITS ALL IN THE DRIVER! no matter what anyone tells you about time it really comes down to who is behind the wheel. Good Luck
Hell ya reperesent Bay Area. Dont do a Frank motor.
i have also witnessed this. To much Hype
i dont understand how you “dont do car codes” but your screen name is a code
I ran a 15.4 1/4 mile in my '94 gsr with only ebay headers and short ram intake. (not to shabby since the first time i ever went to the track, i ran a 16.3 with exactly the same stuff, just better knowledge of how to run)
so alot of the 1/4 times are in the drivers skill with launching and shifting. I suck at launching. I usually peel through the last half of first.
:owned: F-cking pansy! :giggle:
who you talking about?
:bs:
10k miles a year? woooooooooooooooooooo
I do that in two months. Ls/Vtecs are IMO overrated, you can make a superiorly badass motor by either boosting a b16/b18c1 or just building the hell outta a c1. But hey, i’m over the whole all-motor quest. Boost > All motor for a quick DD car.
i would tend to disagree 
1st - there are 2 JDM B18C’s the GSR and the ITR
i have the GSR JDM B18C in my teg with a few mods, i would have to say it is more than worth it. my mechanic is just now doing a ls/vtec swap in his g2, so i will get a better point of reference when his is done, but i would still tend to disagree.
the stock specs on my C are 180hp and 130tq (plus or minus) and it is MORE thank worth it.
good luck with ur swap, if you get a JDM B18C you will be happy, no doubt in my mind
joe
but if your not looking to boost or on a budget you can build a nice reliable Ls/Vtec and make good power …
…for about the same cost as boosting a stock motor
Agree we were blessed with one of the best motors to boost… why change
what if you dont want to boost thats what im saying …you know there are people that like to say N/A …
N/A all the way baby
if you don’t want to do boost decide how much HP you want to have then go from there. if you want serious HP you may want to consider building your block, or doing some head work. theres a lot of sites out there dedicated to NA, i read up on a lot and forgot most of it! 
joe
ok,so ive read every reply on this topic…I find it sad that someone could only get a 15.4 out of a gsr in a hatch…theres LS swapped hatches here that run those times,but like people said its all in the driver. what model is your DA you swapping the gsr into,IMO i think you should buy a b16 long block and swap it in,with the money you have left over from that you could put into the b16 and be faster than a GSR…
I have 3 friends with DA’s and they each have a different type of N/A build.
below is what they have run.
Pat-'93 DA9 w/b18c1 Intake, exhaust and stock header ran a 14.7 on fat fives -Cost around 3,000 for the swap-
John-'91 DA9 w/b16a1 Intake, exhaust and stock header ran a 15.3 on twisties -Cost 3,200 for the whole car-
Mark-'91 DA9 w/lsVtec Intake, exhaust, header ran a 14.6 with 17" wheels and an LS tranny with slipping clutch :down: Now he has 15" Si wheels and a JDM J1 tranny…we guess it would run around 14.2’s?
-Cost around 1,800 for the build as it is now-
All these times are with good drivers and full interior. I’m not saying every similar swap will do the same…this is only what i have seen.
About reliability…Mark has had his LS/VTEC for 2+ years 50k miles Daily driver and he beats on it every day…no motor problems other than map sensors. so if you do it right, it will last.
Hope that helped
all motor is nice but expensive…the LS is the perfect motor to boost on. why spend all the money fro swaps just to run 14’s??? boost it tune it run 13’s …