I am thinking about swapping a B18C into my DA. What timeslips should I expect with the swap? and with I/H/E? Please let me know. I searched and searched but neva found a 1/4mile time with a stra8 b18c swap.
If your throwin a C1 into a TEG, with i/h/e you should be doing AT least low 15s. I usually see C1 in g2 tegs. doing those QT mile times. I say if your good, 14.9s maybe. w/a g2teg, i’d go b20 or h22. 
whoops… you stated “into a DA”… now what is a DA? i dont do car codes.
90-93 integra is a da
ok teg forsure, then u should be in the 15 flats or better. THATS if it’s a clean engine and a clean swap. i see alot of C1’s dropped into 92-95 hatch’s and only run 15.3’s . good luck
Actually, a 90-93 Integra Hatchback with trim level of RS, LS, or GS is a DA.
GS-Rs and Integra Sedans have different chassis codes.
I believe the DA chassis code is good for all 3dr. Integra’s from 86-93. (except GSR’s)
sedans were also DB
but lets not jack this guys thread. the whole DA & DB thing can be discussed elsewhere.
thanks everyone for the comments. =)
haha, i know a guy with a civic with a b18c1 swap and only runs 15 flats! I ran a 15.7 with my b18c1 in my g3 4dr. gsr. I can do better, Im going to remove my 2 12’s subs and spare tire before next time. Plus, my clutch is broken, one of the fingers on the pressure plate broke off and is jammed between the pressure plate and clutch disc. Oh well, new clutch on the way!
btw, i hit 15.7’s cause the track was wet up to the start line (to many damn ricers draggin water to the line). I know it was just me cause my bro has a 12 second mustang conbra w/ vortech SC, and couldnt get lower than 14.9…ahhhH!
kids who drive b18c1s in hatchbacks and run 15s are freakin non drivers, my ls civic coupe went 14.6@94 mph and weighs more than a hatchback.
as for a gsr into a DA id figure at least a high 14 sec pass with some decent driving and the regular bolt ons(I/H/E) shit if not then the only thing to do to a integra is to boost it then.
you should do atleast high 14’s! i got a 92 gsr with SR intake, DC headers, full cat back, AEM pullys, AEm cam gears Fluidyne RAD, and a slightly sliding clutch and ran a 14.9… i bet if my clutch was atleast an exedy stage 1 id probably do 14.6? :hmm: hehe, but yah atleast 14’s if you know how to drive it right. Oh yah forgot to mention i had advan ao48 tires in the front with ADR 15’s. :rockon:
yeah i was thinking the same thing. A b18c1 with i/h/e in a g2 integra ;considering everything is in decent shape-should have no problems hitting 14.9’s if you don’t redline like a moron.
14’s for SURE!
everyone is talking about b18c1… the guy asked for b18c swap 1/4 times am i confused or is b18c and b18c1 the same thing ? because i think the b18c is a JDM ITR motor right ? correct me if im wrong plz !
lol… mah bad. I did not state that correctly but I think I got an idea of the 1/4 times. I was asking about a B18C1 swap. Thanks everyone for the comments tho. I am still thinking bout it b/c I was quoted from a local race shop that the B18C1 swap /w all gaskets changed and a new rack & pinion would cost 3k. I am now debating if I should do a B18B swap for $1300 and use the $1700 towards a turbocharger setup and kick in a little more cash. hmmmmmm what a dilema… But anyhow my motor has 176k and still running strong w/o any problems… I am just waiting for the right time.
ITR is b18c5
i’m a bit biased towards boost but if you build a turbo kit piece by piece along with the b18b swap you’ll have more power for the same price. some people are all motor, some are boost freaks. it’s your choice and it all depends what you want
B18c = JDM ITR
B18c5 = usdm ITR
i think im right ?
and i dont think a b18c1 swap is worth it… not enough power. with the same 3k build a ls/vtec that will give u more power then a gsr motor. good luck on swap.
what was ur trap speed wit that 1/4 mi run? just curious. because figure a 2400 pound coupe can run 14.5’s( w/ a b16 swap) kinda interested in ur traps maybe u could do it still now with the proper 60’ and more weight reduction.