B18c1/c5 engine build Question.

ASSISTANCE Hybrids & Advanced Aftermarket Engine Performance
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Before anyone says anything about searching… trust me I did that already, didn’t find what I wanted to hear.

I’ve been a member here for a while, posting here n there, no build thread just yet :frowning:

Talking about the build, I want “poor mans” ITR swap that’s reliable and has about 220 to 250hp. I will be using this as my daily.

Here is what I have so far:

Head: brand new never used ITR head
[INDENT]ported
polished
shaved
Ferrea 5000 series valves - all seated and installed by my local machine shop
intake valves are oversize - don’t remember the spec
OEM ITR valve seals - not installed yet
Vtec solenoid - used 3rd gen GSR
[/INDENT]

Block: used B18C1, hence “poor mans” ITR
[INDENT]
nothing done to it yet
got everything but pistons, crank, oil pan, rods and studs[/INDENT]

Question is, with the current valve set up what would be good valve springs and cams set up? Can I go with ITR cams and springs for this set up? Or go with something aftermarket?? also OEM or Ferrea valve keepers?

I got the head as a deal, someone ordered 5 of them from a shop…for a track car, then they canceled on the order. So I ended up picking up what has been sitting on the shelf for past 2-3 years.

Also what do I need piston wise?? Would OEM pistons be okay or get something better? High comp or low? APR studs? eagle rods or??

Skunk2 Ultra Series Street manifold will be used.

Just need some help :frowning: too much stuff to consider and too much to choose from.

I’ll try to assemble it my self, just bought ITR manual… if not then I’ll have to find someone to build it for me.

Thanks guys :slight_smile:

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220-250whp (I’m assuming you mean whp and not power at the flywheel or hubs) is pretty serious power from a 1.8l, meaning you’ll need to go fairly all out. And no way you’re gonna get there with ITR/CTR cams. For reference, my ITR rebuild put down 210hp at the hubs with bolt ons and tuning.

I’d start searching the all motor forum over at Honda-Tech and try to figure out what cams are capable of that much power with only 1.8l then move backwards from there - what compression ratio the cams require will dictate what pistons you’ll want…etc.

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Yes personally coming from someone who also went all out the cams and valve train is important I mean ferrea springs retainers and keepers with like a custom Webb grinded cam or something with a lot of power it’s going to cost a shit ton over 10k to get 220-250 whp custom shit too like intake out the bumper and a reputable tuner who knows what he’s doing

My advice for someone who is learning and in the process of doing a lot of dif builds and aiming at dif budgets like my Na pmr cost more then it cost me to build a civic si clone lol with a professional rebuilt b16a2 lol I learned where to save money and what to order new

But here is my 2 cents for a good strong hp motor with minimum money on your end, all arp head studs, rod bolts, you don’t really need the main studs also there easy to over tourqe but anyways, get a Ls b20 or b18 block in good shape use the crank, rods, from that block use ACL bearings race or normal your call, that is going to give you a little more hp right there with a slightly longer stroke bore out the block to 81.5-82mm, pistons depend on your cams your running but if your using your stock decent ITR cams, a high comp oversized b16 pistons would be good or ITR pistons, see dencent gains off that with minimum effort, but I mean a stock ITR block is better then that right there lol anyways if your using better beefier cams or the stock itrs upgrade the valve train sk2 or crower is what I have always ran they sell sk2 lmas for 100$ those help long term,

Or you could spend 2500-3000$ get a dam eagle lightweight crank, eagle rods and like je pistons and bore the hell out of it and go all out and get close to 230-240 whp lol hard to really say what your numbers are the tuner makes a dif

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I agree with the above. 220-250whp isn’t a walk in the park. You’d be best with more displacement and some very aggressive cams. I run skunk2 dual springs and Ti retainers with no issues but don’t run a lot of cam or crazy rpm. I’d be looking to go at least 2.0L in displacement, something like Brian Crower stage 3 cams, and 11.5:1 + compression.

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Well I’m not in a rush with this build, I’ll take time building this, just so it can be reliable so I’m not going cheap on this either.
How good is Sk2 stuff?? I mean if I buy springs, LMA’s might as well go with their cams as well? just to match it.

Skunk2 cams?? which once?
Alpha Valve Spring and Titanium Retainer Kit ? any good?
LMA’s for sure

Salmon arm ehh?? I’m in Kelowna atm Car in Langley for now I’ll bring it over for the summer

Thanks guys for the useful info :slight_smile:

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SK2 stuff is kinda on the good enough level, not great but not going to pile up either. Definitely degree their cams though, don’t trust the markings. I run the alpha stuff but I only run ~8500rpm with stock 94+ GSR cams on boost. For the skunk cams I would say at least pro2 but probably pro 3’s.

Nice to find a localish DA guy, car scene in Kelowna is pretty good but mostly drift now I think.

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I think i’m finalized only on a few things…

APR head studs and rod bolts
Skunk2 Ultra Street intake manifold
ScienceofSpeed LMA’s - seem like a better design then SK2
Eagle -rods
OEM oil pump, water pump, timing belt and spark plugs. Also need VC and Distributor
Some good cam gears

Still have to figure out which pistons and crank to use… also the rest of the valve train
will try to get B16 Trans or Type R.

I’ll brink her out once weather gets better, So I can have some fun on the roads here in K town :slight_smile: Most of my friends back in Langley are all drift/ nissan guys

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Pro 2 require attention for the skunk 2 def when tuned get degreed but with out a doubt 100% stage 3 cams all need to be dialed in and degreed to the motor that is a important

Also just my in site, sk2 stuff is pricy but good super tech works good I mean Brian crower, but if your running like a sk2 cam get sk2 springs n retainers or vise versa for the crower, I have no experience with swapping parts being bad like using skunk 2 cams with crower springs but def do your research on that, custom cams are the way to go for your power I personally know someone with 250 Na whp and he has the ultra sk2 intake mani, Lsd, CUSTOM CAMS for his build def a way to stand out from the normal Na cams, I’m giving you advice I wish I knew going in all out on mine and ending up over 200 at the wheels Na with a pmr lol still nasty with my set up love it! The process should be long and should not be rushed

You seem like you had a good direction, but you do not need all sk2 stuff save money where it counts it adds up so fast it’s scary

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Good thing about SK2 is that all of their stuff designed to work with each other… Cams with Valve train.
I like Supertech more but i don’t know what Cams to pair it with…

I ordered SoS LMA’s :slight_smile: so for now I will order all od the OEM thnigs, like rocker arms and rocker arm rods n stuff…

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Hell yea also one other tbing about sk2 I liked is every part comes with a warranty card and certificate basicly a little nicer then a invoice copy,

But yea for my last build I ran Supertech valve train crower retainers that are steel for daily driver purposes of this build and used the type-r cams so nothing special but they all
Should work the same but my advice when going all out and making as much power as possible probably better to keep it all the same

When my motor is running and I’m driving it I’ll have more info on wether it’s good to mix parts or if it’s bad, first time doing that but there All sizes to specs so I’m guessing it should be good

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yea warranty is why i got their front camber kit

can i run supertech dual springs and Ti retainers with Type R cam and still make over 210hp??

soo…

Supertech Springs and Ti Retainers
Type r Cam
Ferrea 5000 series valves, intake are oversized
Science of Speed LMA’s
SK2 or AEM cam gears— which ever is lighter
?? any thoughts? everything else OEM on the head?

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Matching valve stem seals, Get ported for that much hp if no cash for port preformance valve job on head, get checked for warpage , but your parts list is solid arp head studs as well pretty sure ya listed that but another key component

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I already have enlarged and ported/polished intake side of valves