B20 Cr-Vtec setup

Anybody know how to properly build one of these, the approximate costs, etc. I have been looking at some information on it but it’s kinda difficult to understand and not set up very well. If anyone knows a good info source or doesn’t mind explaining it, I would love to hear.

doing a search on the subject would probably yield quiet a few topics with info about crvtec

Im actually thinking about doing this set up try crvtec.com they have a lot of info on how to set it up there.

Originally posted by Gigarange
doing a search on the subject would probably yield quiet a few topics with info about crvtec


b20 bottom end , with b16/typeR internal , would be around 220WHP , mid 13sec with this setup :slight_smile: Turbo at 9psi = 12 flat :slight_smile:

Originally posted by IntegraRs92
b20 bottom end , with b16/typeR internal , would be around 220WHP

out of curiosity…what cr do you plan on running to get that kind of power?

I had already checked out crvtec.com and I tried to get it to work again, none of the links work for me. That’s why I was wondering about a web site that’s better set up. Oh well, I’ll figure it out.

We have had our B20/VTEC in a 99 integra for a little over a year now.
Building a B20/V is not really for a budget racer. In my opinion, I would not build a B20/V without replacing the pistons. If your going for an All Motor setup, the B20 pistons suck. The compression is so low, your car will probably run slower than a stock b16(don’t rag on me on this, just trying to make a point).
Here is the cost of the B20/Vtec… rough estimation(not considering discounts, hookup from friends, etc):

  1. B20 block……….………… $950 doesn’t matter which B20 USDM or JDM
  2. B16 head w/ manifold…$450
  3. B16 trans ………………….$250-300
  4. Labor to prep head for VTEC…$80
  5. Steel braided oil lines w/fittings…$100
  6. B16 ECU ……………………$250
  7. aftermarket b20 pistons …$550 w rings
  8. Aftermarket rods …………$500
  9. new GSR oil pump……………….$120 (must get this for any ls/v or b20/v conversion!!!)
  10. Labor for assembly of block……$300?
    So just for the block. roughly $2600 for a good complete bottom end with new bearings.

Our bottom end put out 185HP to the wheels with 150lbs torque with stock head(just valve springs and retainers, no port) stock header, stock ECU, and stock intake. With cams, header, and intake, this setup can hit 200+HP easily. And runs on pump gas 91 octane. and oh yeah, we rev the motor to 9K with no problems.

For the rest of the parts, I would suggest just getting a complete B16 swap which run around $1100-1200 (Long block, w/trans, ECU, axles, and shift linkage) Then build a bottom end for the B16 head.

Another option as far as the bottom end, is an LS block. It’s a cheaper alternative since the block doesn’t cost that much. High compression LS block with pistons will run about $1500.

I prefer using the LS block since its much cheaper. The B20 is good for displacement, but with the money you spend on the block, you can make the LS better and stronger.
We are also running an LS/VTEC setup that is bored out to 2.0(not dynoed yet though)
Its better than the B20 since its already sleeved, everything is new, from pistons, rods, to bearings and oil pump. and it costs that same as the built b20 block. For $2600 built B18B/A, its race or street ready.

Hope this helps you and others interested in B20/V or LS/V’s. If you have any other questions let me know.

Wil Exospeed Racing

Ok heres my Question

for the money what is the best and fastest for a daily driver.
Im looking into a motor/trany swap( when the time and money comes)
now you say that for the same amount of money you put into a b20/vtec
you could build a better ls/vtec.
Which one is faster and more reliable?

and what about a stroker kit? boreing out an ls? and is vtec even necessary
to reach 200+hp?

sorry for all the queations but the more research I do the more questions come up.

One more thing(not related) Why wont the vortec supercharger work on our
cars? the only thing that looks like it would be in the way is the battery.

As long as the tranny bell housing is the same bolt pattern and the deck height is the same you should be able to get the 7psi Vortech kit to work. I am putting the B16a Vortech kit on my b17a. Should be finished in december.

Hehe it’s funny cuz here the b20 is so cheap , like a b18a turn around 400-450 and a b20b/z is 600-650 :slight_smile:

how about a b20a or a b21a?

if i remember right the b20a come from the older prelude , 88-91 , those motor are bad … slow and heavy !

I’ve been wanting to swap in the B18C because I’ve heard that the oil delivery is better(squirts on the bottom of the pistons??) than the B18A/ B20A; so revving high will be safer. That’s the big difference for me. I don’t consider the LS/Vtec designs anymore for that reason. That sounds like a fundamental flaw and I would rather put the extra $ into a reliably high revving motor.

Stroker kits aren’t a good idea for high-revving motors. Longer stroke means higher piston speeds given the same rpm. Which means more stress on the rods and crank, which means less reliability of your engine. Boring out the engine is the way to go.

The old Prelude motors are B-series engines but externally they have different mounting setups than the Civic/Integra B-series engines. Good luck getting one into a teg. Besides, they have low compression and horribly long stroke. Not very good motors at all.

Oh yeah, B18C is the best block to use in my opinion. I am doing a B18C bored to 2.0 right now, sleeved of course. its gonna be way better than the B20(CRX block).

LS/VTECs are still good if done right. Must have for an LS/V are NEW! GSR oil pump and Oil pressure gauge. NEVER EVER DO AN LS/Vtec without these two things.

I personally don’t like Stroker kits for daily driving. totally not reliable for daily use and cost lots of money. They are good for racing, but I’d rather overbore/sleeve for daily. much more reliable.


Exospeed Racing

b18a is cheaper than the b18c… if u cant get the gsr block, just keep the LS block and resleeve it. have it bored to i think its 84mm gives u 2.0
get some eagle rods and high CR JE pistons.

a properly built bottom end will make a reliable crvtec or lsvtec

There is nothing “unreliable” about the stroker b20 compared with the shorter stroke motors. You just have to realize the differences between the two designs and drive them accordingly. The longer stroke engines offer more power down low, and are not desgined to rev to 10k rpm. You can get away with that RPM with a b16, but with a b20 you shouldn’t have to rev that high anyways.

From what I’ve seen in the past few years, so far the “custom” stroker kits out there have not been reliable. Maybe the JUN/spoon etc are more realiable, but I have not heard of any one running a Jake’s Engine, Crower, RS motorworks, PYR, R&D, or Erick’s engine stroker kit that has been daily driven back and forth to work, stop and go traffic, daily driving. (These are the local engine builders that claim to have or have stroker kits avail.)

So no matter if its reliable, I still wouldn’t drive a $4500 stroked out block for work/school/leisure driving.


Ahh sorry I thought you were talking about the b20 crank compared with the b16. Ya I would rather go with OEM stuff whenever possible. Usually it costs less too.