i’m trying to work this out?
Re: B20 into 90ls what is needed
Originally posted by instinct616
B20 into 90ls what is needed
ummm, a b20…
Seriously that’s about it. You can use your ECU, your transmission, your axles, even the wiring harness that’s in your car, your injectors… Someone help me out here. Did I get just about everything?
a new im because the b20 one is too tall
Originally posted by Stevie D
a new im because the b20 one is too tall
you can use your stock b18a intake manifold, a b18b intake manifold, or a skunk2 intake manifold. Depending on what you have and/or how much, if any, $$ you want to spend.
all
do i need to convert it to obd0 too so what do i need for that?
Think about it this way. You’re just replacing the block and cylinder head. Everything else is just used again. Don’t think about what kind of OBD you’re working with, it doesn’t really apply to a simple swap like this.
turbo
is the swap worth it, i’m going turbo in the future so shoul i get b20b or b20z?
Exactly what jetspd said. The B20 is essentially the same motor as the 1.8 ls exept for a different stroke, making the motor a 2.0 rather than a 1.8. Also the valve cover is different. If you get the swap let me know i can help. Actually I’m only a day away from dropping mine in. The b20b has the exact same external dimesions as the 1.8, therefore everything on your 1.8 needs to be swapped over to the B20. There is one circumstance, however if you have a 90 or 91 integra, you’ll need a different thermostat cover for your b20, I’m actually trying to get info on this right now, so I can drop the b20 in my car tomorrow:p
Oh yeah, get a jdm B20b, not the usdm b20b, they’re different, besides the jdm motors only have 20-30,000 miles on them. I got a jdm b20b, from Steve at Hondamotorsonline.com, for $975 shipped to Ohio, guarantees all sensors, he’s a good guy, if you get one go through him, he’ll hook you up
Originally posted by NISIF
Exactly what jetspd said. The B20 is essentially the same motor as the 1.8 ls exept for a different stroke, making the motor a 2.0 rather than a 1.8.
I’m going to assume you meant bore instead of stroke. The b18a, b18b, b20b and b20z all have 89mm strokes. The b20’s have an 84mm bore as compared to the 81mm bore of the non-vtec b18’s.
True, from what i was told it was the stroke too, but that could of been b.s., more than anything I wanted to point out that the b20 is virtually the same on the external dimesions, therefore no worries when it comes down to swapping items from the ls.
actually there are some adjustments that need to be done…
- your going to need to use your b18a crack pulley the b20 one is too big…
- your going to need to use your b18a manifold.
- your going to need to change the drivers side mount to your old b18a mount…
- your going to need to use a obd1 or higher thermostat cover connector…It is actually connected to the block on the b18a but on the b20b or Z it is connected to the thermostat cover…
That’s all i can think of right now…If you guys got anymore questions just let me know…
integster@yahoo.com
leeo
Originally posted by integster
[B]actually there are some adjustments that need to be done…
- your going to need to use your b18a crack pulley the b20 one is too big…
- your going to need to use your b18a manifold.
- your going to need to change the drivers side mount to your old b18a mount…
- your going to need to use a obd1 or higher thermostat cover connector…It is actually connected to the block on the b18a but on the b20b or Z it is connected to the thermostat cover…
That’s all i can think of right now…If you guys got anymore questions just let me know…
integster@yahoo.com
leeo [/B]
Just like I said in my previous post… . 
Originally posted by JETSPD1477
Think about it this way. You’re just replacing the block and cylinder head. Everything else is just used again. Don’t think about what kind of OBD you’re working with, it doesn’t really apply to a simple swap like this.
hey fellas
Im trying to understand this thermostat cover needing to be upgraded thing. The OBD0 integgers have a thermostat cover connector plugged into the block…?? I can’t find this item on the car or in the manual. All i can see way down there is a ground wire on the thermocover or somthing
BTW, this is what i compiled from the Jap honda site about the JDM b20B, where they list their older models…
JDM CRV w/b20b
1996:
cr - 9.6:1
ps - 130@5500
kgm - 19.0@4200
1997:
(2wd?)
cr - 8.8:1
ps - 130@5500
kgm - 18.8@4200
(4wd?)
cr - 9.2:1
ps - 145@6200
kgm - 18.2@5200
1998:
cr - 9.6:1
ps - 150@6300
kgm - 18.8@4500
JDM S-MX w/b20b
1996:
cr - 8.8:1
ps - 130@5500
kgm - 18.7@4200
1999:
cr - 9.6:1
ps - 140@5500
kgm - 19.0@4200
2000:
cr - 9.6:1
ps - 140@5500
kgm - 19.0@4200
JDM Orthia w/b20b
1996:
(2.0GX, 2.0GX-S)
cr - 9.2:1
ps - 145@6200
kgm - 18.2@5200
1998:
2.0GX, 2.0GX-S)
cr - 9.2:1
ps - 145@6200
kgm - 18.2@5200
Assuming this info is correct (and i do believe they have made typos on that site), it looks like they have many different configurations for their b20b’s there along with THREE cr’s. Depending on which car you get yours from (the crv, smx is a van, and the orthia is a car), some may get the LS IM (like the Orthia), maybe the smaller crank pulley and LS drivers side engine mount, or not.
The big thing is that some DO have the 8.8:1 pistons (apparently) and the orthia has a 9.2:1 cr. Could that be the 9.6:1 pistons with deshrouded comb. chambers to lose the 0.4cr (like they say it will?). Newman claims HIS Orthia b20b DOES have the Z pistons in it…
…interesting
Why not just get the original block sleeved and new pistons? Sure it may cost more initially, but in the long run you would have a motor more capable of handling boost or lots or squeeze…For all you unlucky folks living with the Cal smog laws, it will still be the same B18a block instead of having to deal with getting a B20 smogged…
Originally posted by NISIF
Exactly what jetspd said. The B20 is essentially the same motor as the 1.8 ls exept for a different stroke, making the motor a 2.0 rather than a 1.8. Also the valve cover is different. If you get the swap let me know i can help. Actually I’m only a day away from dropping mine in. The b20b has the exact same external dimesions as the 1.8, therefore everything on your 1.8 needs to be swapped over to the B20. There is one circumstance, however if you have a 90 or 91 integra, you’ll need a different thermostat cover for your b20, I’m actually trying to get info on this right now, so I can drop the b20 in my car tomorrow:p
Do u have pix of ur swap???
TIA 
i have the same problem
so i will be needing a b20 obd 1 thremostat housing cover with the connector?
then i will need to purchase the housing and the connector right?..and how will i wire this up…anybody done this yet?
ive been having a check engine light cuz of this…
motor is in… except these two wires that went in the back of the block on my b18a are just hanging
Originally posted by fOUr tyPe LSr
[B]i have the same problem
so i will be needing a b20 obd 1 thremostat housing cover with the connector?
then i will need to purchase the housing and the connector right?..and how will i wire this up…anybody done this yet?
ive been having a check engine light cuz of this…
motor is in… except these two wires that went in the back of the block on my b18a are just hanging [/B]
you have the b20 harness remnants? just pull out the thermo connector and all the wire you can get with it and splice it into your teg harness (just wrap it around the “old” connector wire ends and tape it if you want). then run the “new” connector harness around to your b20 thermo switch on the thermo housing and plugger in (it works too). Save some money…
i took pictures of all the '90 teg/b20 swap anomalies, but i still need to make my site.
d