im looking to do some work on my car starting next year. what would be a powerful and reliable combo for my b20?
Build the b20 N/A; cams, gears, valvetrain, pulleys, forged pistons/rods for maybe 10.1:1 cr (around there nothing too high), NO VTEC and just general maintenance work like replacing old parts keep in mind it is a 92 except the block and head which is '01.
or
rebuild with forged pistons N/A again but this time VTEC head basically a CR VTEC with around 10.1:1 cr
How much money do you have to burn? I’ve been running my B20vtec with ctr cams for two years now without any problems. If I were you, I would go with a vtec head, because the money put into porting and polishing B20 head would better off spent on a B16 head.
Also, do you plan on rebuilding the bottom block? If so, don’t forget main, and rod bearings, oil pump, water pump, oil pan gasket, main seals, etc…
IMO, I would forget trying to make power with a non-vtec head. In the long run, it’s cheaper to make power with a vtec than with non-vtec.
IMHO rebuilding the b20 with forged internals to only 10:1 CR would be a huge dissapointment after all the money spent. 11.5:1 with RS Machine ITR style pistons would net a better outcome. But if your gonna build it, then sleeve it, cause that could be a huge letdown as the b20 sleeves have alot of trouble “sometimes” with being revved too high with stock sleeves.
If 10:1 is all your looking to do, and your ballin’ on a budget like most, then i’d second what RacerX said. A vtec head and a good tune will put most stock b20z/vtec head combos to around 170 to 190 or more depending on the tune, cams, CR, etc.
Reliabilty will be come thru not beating on it all the time and keeping the revs to a conservative level.
I just swapped out my b18a1 shortblock(235K) for a newer b20z shortblock. Same a1 head, full bolt ons, full interior ‘92 LS with no ac/ps and just went 15.2 in the 1/4 with a 2.2 60’; untuned.
RacerX, i’m actually interested in a similar setup as yours; wondering if you have any dyno numbers or 1/4 mile times, setup, etc. if you don’t mind sharing.
Thanks
I’m running a stock B20b block, arp crvtec headstuds, stone b20 head gasket, ITR oil and water pump, '99 Si B16 head milled 25 thousandths, (and then milled two more times, but I forget by how much), CTR cams, ITR valve springs, skunk 2 itr version intake manifold, akimoto CAI, DC 421 header, 345cc prelude injectors, B&M FPR @ 48 psi, Greddy trust cat-back exhaust, HKS SAFR piggyback controller, PW0 ecu with FEEL’s chip, '93 GSR YS1 tranny, ITR flywheel, B18a distributor, B18a throttle body, and NGK IR spark plugs.
183 whp on 93 pump gas, with a crappy tune, and a nasty spike when vtec crosses over. This is the 4th motor I’ve had in my DA9 and this one pulls harder than the LSvtec w/ 11.5:1 CR, or stock LS with bolt-ons.
RacerX thats some good numbers. I bet it pulls like a freight train. I’d like to do something similar in the future, but no time soon. Just had a baby boy so the funds are not there. But it’s on the long list of stuff to do.
How much torque is it putting down?
I would need to pull up the old dyno chart in my files, but it was 140 ft lbs or so. (Roughly 9.5:1 C.R.) Not much torque. My previous 11.5:1 C.R. LSvtec made 138 ft lbs of torque. I’m planning on getting it retuned soon, so I’ll post the new results when I get them. Although, I’m not planning to tune it for more power, but rather just to smooth out the vtec transition.
Nevertheless, with the car gutted sitting at 2300 lbs or so, at the first SCCA solo II event here in VA, the DA ran better lap times in SM2 class, than a supercharged M3, a turbo MR2, and two supercharged mustangs–and all 4 cars had racing tires.
After paying for my tuition at Virginia Tech, I’m trying to figure out where I can find some funds to get R-compound tires. I know how it is trying to find more car funds. I worked as a Nissan mechanic at a dealership to get parts from distributors cheaper, and free use of the tire machines, alignment racks, and lifts. So there are ways around it.
I have a B20b being the JDM B20 with a higher compression ratio than the USDM one, i just did a feew bolt ons-intake manifold, intake, full exhaust and it keeps up with alot, it stomps on my friends 00’ GSR with intake, exhaust and a short shifter… i like it because it can take all the abuse that i throw at it with no problem… i would just stick with non vtec…
yah i was thinking the same i really only wanna rev as high as 7500 which from what i read is ok for stock rods i may not even upgrade compression but just some cams valvetrain tunning use the money for maintenance things like replacing old worn parts or fixing the body because it needs some work but yah im not looking for outrageous power until i get back from afghanistan then with the money i get from that ill be looking into fully rebuilding my motor/body/suspension/type r 5lug conversion/ steel braided lines type r oil water pumps i dunno lots i wanna do
with being revved too high with stock sleeves.