nawwww…
I ment the one you see in a 'o1 crv its on hmotors site…
i know the one you mean, mine is in the picture
d
the square one is supposed to be better but I don’t know if it would fit,
ARCHIVETHIS
Wow this is very useful info here guys.
But though I’m still not done with mine, I will be soon. I’m unfortunately not putting it in my g2, but in a g3 4dr gsr. But I might be getting a GSR tranny though, and swapping the LS 5th gear into it. I was reading on some other boards with short geared trannies on b20s. Well they said that a majority of people will burn their tires in first and second pretty easily. And I guess launching the b20 takes some mastery compared to the less torquy b18a/b.
But I’m getting excited about it. Though I have no clue of how it will perform in the g3, since I’m not use to that car, I’m sure I will definately not be disappointing. I was explaining on another board about the potential of the b20 engine and building it up. Having the hp of a rsx type S with the torque of a prelude can never be a bad thing. I’m anticipating about 155wtq, which even the S2000 can’t beat. Pretty remarkable I might say.
Good view on the obd1 status too with the b20 platforms daver. I will be using the obd1 ecu, and will be eventually raising the redline too, to about 8500 rpm. But want to use the stock ecu first to see how or when power really starts cutting out with the crower 403 cams, then goto the higher redline ecu, and see if I can extract anything else up in the 6800+ range.
I’m interested in swapping a b20 motor into my teg and i just want to know would a b20 vtec be reliable or is it just about as reliable as an ls vtec? Also would an all motor b20 be faster than an all motor b18a. and would using the b18a head be better to use on the b20 block than the b20 head ?
oneevilg…
Do a search for more info, but a b20 is better in all ways compared to a b18a. The b20 head is esentially the exact same replica of the b18b (1992+ heads) so I would use the b20 complete motor. But do a search everything is there, just have to do some hunting.
anyone see a dyno with a skunk IM and 403 or 404 cams, along with CAI and header?
im pretty set on using the Colt regrinds with a skunk manifold and port matched TB…probably a cheap JDM 4-1 header and CAI to go along with it
i wouldnt be surprised to see 160whp out of that
nice dyno’s! but he let off at 7000?? you can see it’s still making power all the way to when he stops, so why didnt he keep going? mabey he didnt have the valve train for it. :think:
do you know if he was useing a header or anything else?
He probably just hit the fuel cutoff on his probably stock ECU
d
has anyone seen a dyno with a rechipped ecu using crower 403 cams? or even 404’s? That would b interesting to see where they stop making power.
Originally posted by rcnacura
has anyone seen a dyno with a rechipped ecu using crower 403 cams? or even 404’s? That would b interesting to see where they stop making power.
exactly my thinking
aftermarket cams
so lets talk about after market cams for the b20 then. Im looking to get some but would like some feedback on which would best suit me, i would like to stay away from upgrading my entire valvetrain with high rev springs and retainers, or balancing the block…so basically I don’t plan to rev past 7. I’m still learning so input is greatly appreciated.
damn im reading about all you guys lovin your b20’s. I just put in a b20z in my 90 rs with a skunk2 im, dc header, vortech fuel rail, nology wires, iridium plugs, injen intake, with cai extension, new 6 puck action cltuch, with a gsr flywheel…sound good, only problem, it doesnt run to well. it has a really rough idle. once the car is warmed up, it will bounce from 1500rpm to 800rpm. ive replaced all the hoses and made sure that they all go in the right spot but it still bounces like that. the car drives but it has no power. im just confused :shrug:
i’ve heard of rough idle problems, but with no power?
Did you do a compression test on it yet?
Did you reset the computer yet for the heck of it?
d
no i havent done a compression test yet. and yes i have reset the ecu. im hoping its just my timing thats next. my ecu is flashin 5’s…which is a map sensor problem but i checked the hoses and they are all clear. ill just keep workin on it i guess
youve got a bouncing idle
i had the same problem, i did what that guide said to do, it fixed it.
ive also got B20 plans, crower 404s, high comp pistons, forged rods, skunk2 IM, P+P head. im hoping to get about 160 whp and 145 wtq. thatll put my car i believe in the mid 14s.
Well i guess ill chime in here…
Well i have a 98 b20b in my lss… Mods are: Intake, chikara torqstep header, no cat and RS*R… stg 2 cluctch, with y1 (b16? tranny?) i belive… with 11pd wheels… It has the LS mani also…
Uhh best time in the 1/4 is 15.9 at 85… and my best 60’ is 2.2… thats with a 3erd gear grind at 3K elevation roughly… (I wish i could find my slips)
Over all im HELLA happy with it… The tranny helps EMENSLY
(sp?) fastest G2 ive seen here in ID runs 16.5… My old LS was nice, but B20 is much more uhhh BETTER… haha, i had 92-93 cams in LS and that helped in the TQ dept of it, but not like the B20 at all… Ive also have drove my friends high 11sec CRVT civic… All i have to say is DAAAMN… POWER EVERYWEAR… Soo i may end up doin crvt for the top end…
But for a daily, just like leeo said, you cant beat them… (i think)
For cams, EF-1/Rocket Motorsports would be my first choice, then Colt, then crower 404s (wether i have vtec or no vtec)…
Yeah the Skunk2 mani is really good, but i hear the ITR is just bout as good to… Well untill you wanna start spending some $$ hahahaha…
O and Look at the TB on the b20 intake mani then look at the LS’s
L8R
DG