Anyone know where I can get a block from?
uniqueillusi0nz you really need to seatdown and think about what you want to do for your set up. u just keep jumping around on ideas. all non vtec b18/b20 heads flow like shit expect for the p8r head.
what type of power do you want?
N/A or Boost?
I kno I kno. I get so hyped when I think sum is good then when it turns around, sum else seems better. I mean, I would like to go n/a if anything. So would I be better off just building my ls,go ls vtec,or b20? In your oppinion,what would be the better bang for my buck? To boost my ls and better tranny? Ok here’s everything I’ve done to it so far…then let me know where I go from here…
-injen intake
-pro tuning 4-2-1 header
-2 1/2 inch piping to gutted cat to flowmaster super 44
-crower stage 2’s
-aem adj gears
-spoon chip set at 8500
-act stage 1 clutch
-fidanza flywheel
-obx throttle body spacer
[QUOTE=uniqueillusi0nz;1949930]I kno I kno. I get so hyped when I think sum is good then when it turns around, sum else seems better. I mean, I would like to go n/a if anything. So would I be better off just building my ls,go ls vtec,or b20? In your oppinion,what would be the better bang for my buck? To boost my ls and better tranny? Ok here’s everything I’ve done to it so far…then let me know where I go from here…
-injen intake
-pro tuning 4-2-1 header
-2 1/2 inch piping to gutted cat to flowmaster super 44
-crower stage 2’s
-aem adj gears
-spoon chip set at 8500
-act stage 1 clutch
-fidanza flywheel
-obx throttle body spacer[/QUOTE]
B20’s dont hold well under boost unless there resleeved. u said in a post before that you wnted to keep up with your friends so just turbo the stock LS use the cams you have and turbo it. 300 to 325whp is safe on a stock block LS if the CP is good.
To go from there on a B20, you need a better flowing intake manifold- either Skunk2 or Blox. Ask most B20 owners, they’ll tell you to get either of those; most will say Skunk2. Next you’d want to port match your throttle body, or get a new one that’s already matched to the intake manifolds inlet size.
I don’t know if you’d wanna rev a B20 that high. It’s stock redline is like 6300-6700rpms. I wouldn’t try goin’ that high unless it was built. Or did you mean the LS is set @ 8500rpms? That’s kinda high for an unbuilt LS too.
I’d go B20 if I were you. You have some good parts that are all useable on the B20. Just swap’em over.
What kind of intake manifold is on that head? Is it taller than your LS manifold, or is it about the same size? Does it have a silver box on top the manifold, or maybe a big hole @ the top of it? If so, that’s surely a high compression B20 head. Look @ the round circles w/ slashes through them
above the header.
These:
All you should care about are the first circle from the left. If the number on the first circle is either 0/0 0/1 it’s a 2000 or 2001 B20 for sure. If the number on the first cirlcle is 9/9 then look at the second circle. It should be
1/1 or 1/2, meaning it was made in Nov. or Dec. of 1999. As you should know, this is because Honda starts making new model year cars early. If it says 9/9 & the second circle says either 1/1 or 1/2, it’s a 2000 B20.
Keep the head & get a B20 block. Put all your parts in/on the B20 & get it tuned well. That car will kick some ass & be fun to drive too. Look @ this:
http://g2ic.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1663673&postcount=231
You should have some real fun w/ a B20 setup w/ all your current parts on it. However, if all you care about is beating your friends’ cars, then you need to really build something big. Full build for that task. (Saw your other posts.)
B20 FTW!!
:getsome::manual:
Corniest quote ever: “Get yours today! JDM is IN!”
Dam so what should I do? Turbo the ls or buy a block and use the head I got?..decisions decisions. Blkguy has a point. Can juss sell the head,make sum money,and turbo my ls. But 93 has a point to. I can get a block and use to head. Ok so my question now,is with juss a little under a 1000 bux to work with,should I invest in a turbo? Or get a block and build from there? Would I hang with at least 2 of them? And would the parts I have now work with the b20? Redline is set at 8500, but I don’t go that high. 77 at the highest. To scared to try it.
What are you trying to hang with?
I have a b20z with custom CAI, Blox intake manifold, blox fuel pressure regulator, DC header, custom 2.25" catback with 22" resonator, carsound cat, and magnaflow muffler, chipped and CROME tuned p75 ECU with revlimiter set at 8500rpm, Fidanza 7lb flywheel, and some other odds and ends I can’t remember right now.
I hang with gsr’s, b16’s, and run neck and neck with my buddies BMW 325is (5MT) with CAI, header back exhaust, Dinan chip, and other small stuff at the track and just messing around on the highway all the time.
Not to mention my b20z pulls HARD and it’s fun as hell to drive on windy roads because it has a ton of torque, which is something you will never get out of most VTEC engines.
There’s my 2 cents.
Trynna hang with these…
98 supra tt
02 roush mustang
91 300zx tt
07 pontiac g6
07 v6 stang
93 da with 95 gsr swap
91 ef with built b20
[QUOTE=uniqueillusi0nz;1950162]Trynna hang with these…
98 supra tt
02 roush mustang
91 300zx tt
07 pontiac g6
07 v6 stang
93 da with 95 gsr swap
91 ef with built b20[/QUOTE]
supra, 300zx, and Roushstang are def out unless you boost. My b18a used to beat v6 mustangs, ef and da are def attainable with the right all motor b20 set up… and I laugh at the g6.
The g6 actually beats the v6 stang…haha…and the v6 stang has headers,intake,throttle body spacer,blah blah…haha
edit: i guess i shudd be posting this in my thread…lol my bad
i got an ls/v with…
ARP rod bolts
ACL bearings
shotpeened rods
ITR pistons
GSR head with ARP head bolts/ studs
AEM CAI
NGK iridium IX
visionmotorx 10.2mm wires
2.5" cat-back exhaust
RPS pressure plate with
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch
12 Lbs streetlite flywheel
side note full valvetrain upgrade and cams coming soon
im trying tuh keep up with
GT stangs
mach1s
srt-4
v8 chargers
///M3
kompressors and AMG(not 07+)
but mainly V8s
and add porsche cayenne to the list… one pissed me off today… LOL i dont care if they have like 300+HP
Dam…yalls cars make my shit like a geo metro or sum…geez
nah cutty dont trip mine used to be a halfway POS but it takes time
Hah…regardless…I’ve got a long way to go…daym
well save your pennies and do everything the right way. The cheap guy pays twice.
+1 :iagree:
It takes time to do it the right way, but it pays off soo much in the end. I’ve had mine for 3 yrs now, & I’m just getting around to swapping the motor, early next year!! LOL
Mind you, in that time she’s also gotten some good upgrades, (which really just means quality parts) but even a few of those are sitting 'round the garage waiting for paint, etc.
Yes it takes time to do it right, but the end result is well worth it.
:getsome::manual:
Corniest quote ever: “Get yours today! JDM is IN!”
Yea you guys are right. Imm gonna just take mt time, save the money and do it right. But I’m still debating on turbo’ing the ls or going b20. Either way, it’ll b a while. Feel like a lil kid in front of a bunch of legos. I just wanna fuk wit it. Haha. In time. So what’s the better bang for the buk?
well it matters what you wanna do… autox? drag? there is a lot of stuff involved even under the main goal you are trying to attain… like if u wanna drag…from a dig or from a roll? if from a dig r u running slicks or are u on the street? from a dig on the street unless you are running low boost i would go n/a cuz you will have a more usable powerband cuz if ur running turbo with high boost you will have a buttload of power but if boost is too high ur just gonna be spinning ur wheels going nowhere shit u might just snap your axles cuz theres so much grip… now if ur looking to smash on the freeway from a roll, turbo FTW!! IMO
but yeh same goes for autox… if you wanna go boost i wudd suggest a smaller turbo so it spools quicker for when u accel out of turns so on and so forth… and ontop of that if ur going autox your gonna wanna focus on your chassis becuz lord knows the DA chassis is super flexible you you wanna look into suspension upgrades…subframe braces…shocks…etc etc…
there is plenty of stuff you need to figure out for yourself so that you can stay on the correct path instead of deviating and spending money on something that wont help u much
well there is my $.2
from what info is givin the car is a street car raced on the street.
boost/psi has nothing to do with spinning your tires that happens with both N/A and Turbo cars thats nothing a good set of tires and launching cant fix
you say you have 1g to spend just turbo the LS with a T3/T4 57TRIM and make your 300whp. so you can hang with the higher horsepower cars. you cant do that N/A with out a very high comp full race head and header and the da gutted to shit and at that point the car would not idle and be a bitch to drive on the street. or swap a K into it make 300+ N/A at a very high cost
YOUR BEST AND MOST COST SAVING PLAN IS TO TURBO THE LS END OF STORY. CUZ TO BUILD A N/A B20V OR LSV THAT MAKES THAT ITS GOING TO COST YOU OVER 3G’S NOT INCLUDING TUNING.
Wow… the crap in this thread.
[QUOTE=ivegotbawls;1949601]b18a’s DID NOT come with p75 heads. The b18a used the pr4 head.
b18b, b20z, and USDM b20b used p75.
JDM b20b and b20b4 used both p75 and p8r. p8r was WAAAAY more rare.[/QUOTE]
This is totally correct. To add to this, you canNOT put a P8R head on a 1.8L block. Yes, it flows better than a P75 due to the larger intake valves, but it also has a 84mm combustion chamber, which means that you canNOT use it on a block with a 81mm bore. Great for a B20, but useless on an LS unless you are boring or sleeving it to 2.0L. The P75 is a slight upgrade over the PR4 head that comes on the B18A, and it has an 81mm combustion chamber so that you can actually use it on your B18A. You can buy larger aftermarket valves and have it machined to get as good or better flow than the P8R.