Thinking about going to a B20 from my stock b18a… any drawbacks? Direct bolt up, no messing with the wiring/computers?
depends on what you want it for
for a cheep low miles eng yes it is
the b20 will drop right in but you have to strip your b18a
Just keep the car reliable since it is a daily driver. Plus a little more power under the hood wouldnt hurt.
i have a b20 in my DA and i love it…no regrets…more power than some people think…
i love my b20
i wanted to drop a k in but i found no info
B20
Might as well go for the B20, just make sure you can find a JDM B20 or a 99+ B20 (I believe) as they have 146hp and 133ft lbs of torque (B20Z), just a slightly raised compression ration compared to the B20B’s Defiently a nice motor, and responds releatively well to mods. good luck
I been thinkin about the b20 aswell but i`ve heard they have week sleeves and crack easy under stress
is this really true? hearing that makes me think about just gettin a b18b
can anyone clear this up for me?
ttt
That’s usually cause people throw turbos on them, it will be fine for all-motor as long as you take care of it and keep the revs down.
Keep the rev’s down? So it is weaker than the b18? Assuming that you keep all the stock b18 internals and such.
ttt
The b20 has a longer stroke, so it is not made to rev as high as other engines.
I think most b20’s top out at 6200 I’m not sure. But if you plan on revving any higher then I would at least change the rod bolts.
B20 and B18 have the same stroke , its the bore thats different, B20 has a 84mm bore while the B18 has a 81mm bore. both motors have a horrible rod stroke ratio so higher revs than stock isnt recomended since itll warp the sleeves
The B20b and the B18a1 have the same crankshafts and rods. (And obviously the same stroke.) The increase in displacement comes from the 84mm bore on the B20, vs. the 81mm bore on the B18a1. That’s about it. (Other than the B20b block having a knock sensor and thinner walls.)
In terms of the reliability of the B20, a few months ago, I drove my B20vtec DA from California to Virginia. (3,000 miles) in under 7 days. Keep in mind this is with a GSR YS1 short geared tranny, so the engine speed was at 4,200 RPM’s the entire time. I had NO problems whatsoever with the engine. The compression today is 220 to 240 PSI accross the board, with no oil burning, or any problems of that sort. I’ve brought my B20Vtec up to 7K RPM’s at the max about 10 times or so. Just be sure not to over-rev the engine–say up to 9,000 RPM’s, and you’ll be fine.
Thanks for the info! Looks like I’ll be selling my b18 and getting the b20. Passwordjdm has them for a reletively low cost. Anyone know where else I can buy one for cheaper?
do you realy need to rev that high if the motor wasnt meant to take it???
ike if i had a buolt B20 al motor… heck i just shift at 6500…
torque wins races baby… not HP…
The engine speed at which most B series engines make the most power and torque depends on several factors: I.e., compression ratio, camshaft lift and duration, portflow, and volumetric efficiency proportional to engine speed.
Also, if torque wins races, then most all NA B series motors would lose all of their races. Let’s not forget that what wins races is a Power to weight ratio. Then why the heck would the Spoon B16 race engine rev to 12k RPM’s?
Also, let’s remember that
HP= (torque) X (RPM’s) / 5,250
(If you play wth the equationa bit, you’ll notice that the HP coefficient is directly proportional to RPM’s. Which means, the higher the engine speed is, the higher the HP. (I.e., greater work, per unit time.)
If you re-arrange the equation for Torque, by using highschool algebra, you’ll find:
Torque = (5250)X(HP) / (RPM’s)
Again if you play with the numbers, you’ll find that torque is inversely proportional to RPM’s. (The higher the engine speed, the less torque you make.)
Now please explain why they made the Honda Engineers made the S2000 Rev to 9k? Perhaps this is because the only way to maximize a low displacemnt N.A. motor, is to increase it’s RPM’s. Which is where most Honda’s of this nature shine.
couldn’t have said it better myself, nice work UCSlugRacerX 
:sad: i was just gonna say that …
good point…
i’ve had my b20b w/P8R head since may and i love it. I would def. recommend this swap to anyone. If you can’t find a b20z, look for a b20b with P8R head. the p8r head has vtec sized intake valves 31mm i believe, the combustion chamber of the head is matched to the 84mm bore of the block, intake and exhaust ports are larger, and the compression is bumped up to 9.2 vs 8.8 for most b20b’s. It is just as if not rarer than b20z’s though, only made for two at most three years in japan.
If you need a B20 head let me know im seeling one for $75 w/ a ls intake mani. on it. Its damn clean too.
http://g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132548
theres more pics avail…if interested.