Well, my dreams are finally becoming realized, i blew my '90 integra engine today. At least i think i did, there’s coolant squirting out the side of the head.
Yahoo, this means i have to get a jdm b20b even though i can’t afford it. Will my '90 ECU handle this engine without leaning it out enough to damage it??? I’ll be on a big budget here unfortunately. I just want to make sure it runs “OK” and that i won’t be hurting it. Any other advice from b20 hybrid owners?
Anyone know some Toronto/ Montreal jdm importers/shops?? I’m starting to shop tomorrow…
Most people use their stock ECU for a b20. You will be just fine with your stock ECU and injectors. You can even use your b18a intake manifold and throttle body; you might even have to.
Thanks for the quick and experienced responses fellers.
Jonster, you have the b20z in your integra, any comment on the increased power delivery over the LS (and MPG?)? I seen posts with people claiming that their b20 swaps made better power, but not that much more, others have said it is NIGHT and DAY. I’ve been looking at the japanese Honda mumbo jumbo site and it looks like they have THREE different cr’s in their b20b’s there (figuring out which one your getting is the hard part). You obviously have the USDM Z with the 9.6:1 cr, soo…
i don’t know how much more power the b20 has over my old b18a. MPG wise though, it’s about the same. I’ll have to see once i have my injectors cleaned since am using my old ones. For me, the difference isn’t really night and day but it’s noticeable enough to make me :).
b20 dyno:
Now i’ve seen b18bs putting out the same power but the difference lies in the torque. Member brekekex (haven’t seen him lately) has posted that he was putting about the same dyno #s as me until he put a test pipe (only bolt on) which gave him about 140 whp and if i remember correctly 130 lbs/ft of torque. Am still thinking about a testpipe or a gutted out cat but am not too sure about it yet. I should put more time into my car hehe.
Also, why not just get a USDM b20z so at least you know you have 9.6:1 compression?
I should look into the availability of b20z’s USDM (or CDM for me); i understood that they are more expensive and rare tho. I’ll call the junk yard network tomorrow.
Your numbers do look a little lower than some, especially in the low end, but your peak torque is at about 144lbs to the fly which is 23lbs than the b18a is listed at (sounds good to me). I’ve already got a civic cat on that only has a couple thousand kms thru it so i’m all set there. Don’t have a free flow exhaust anymore tho -crap; i assume you do? I’ve got a JG throtle body, though, that i got 6 years ago and a good MSD ignition and coil. Sounds like a good start (re-start)…
well im going to be getting my 1/4 mile time hopefully in about 2 weeks…I currently have:
AEM Intake
JG TB
Greddy Headers ( 4-2-1 )
HKS Hyper Exhaust
Stillen FPR
Now im not running the b20z i have the b20b so im pretty interested in what my 1/4 mile times are…I’ll be posting them after i go…
i have the JDM b20b and im getting anywhere from 280 - 340 miles per full tank…All highway miles i can get about 340-350 miles for a full tank…It’s great…I’ll be going to the tracks late this month and i’ll let you know what times i get…I have a few people very interested in the outcome ( im really wanting to know as well )…I do know this much though i can wax a g2 like nothing…First i pulled a little , 2nd i was about a full car head , After third gear the race was over…That was taking it up to 6.5k and i still have auto cams…
Did the jdm b20b swap in my teg, just finished racing at Kill-Kare tonight. Best time with ls after at least 30+ runs= 15.66, temperature was about 60 degrees that night. Tonight had 2 runs, still experimenting, best run with b20b, 15.60, and I burned out halfway through first gear, so my 60 ft times could use some work, and it was 80 degrees tonight. IMO, b20 is better than 1.8ls, street driving especially, take corners in 2nd gear and break traction. With stock rims on, I have enough torque at 4,000 rpms, to chirp em lose in strait line. Oh yeah with a b16 tranny, i bet qt times would drop considerably, In the ls bearly had to shift into 4th gear b4 finish line, now I’m riding 4th gear out in the b20 at the finish. I’m satisfied with the $975 i spent on the jdm B20b. If u go this way, let me know, it’s very basic but I can fill u in about the cooling fan sensor and where to relocate your wiring harness so u have no problems.
The difference was not night and day, I dynoed 123hp and 123lbs. After taking out the VERY clogged cat in favour of a test pipe, I dynoed 138.9hp and 135lbs… that was night and day.
That was NO bolt ons, and on lowest octane fuel.
Stock ECU is perfectly fine… I monitor my a/f ratios, and it runs at perfect stoichiometry at WOT.
Oh, and a tight geared tranny is the only way.
I used a Y1 w/LSD (much better than the stock POS), and then upgraded to a YS1 w/LSD… and that was major step up even from the Y1.
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