with my b20 i got anywhere from 28-38mpg. Obviously the high side was all highway driving with LS transmission
And this is with the stock LS ECU?
yup
Cool. That’s good news.
One more question for anyone seeing this…if I changed the pulley from the stock B20B pully to the LS pully, would I get the LS timing belt? I imagine the cam gears are spaced the same distance apart, at least they look like they are.
Any help?
[QUOTE=90DA’teg;1839899]One more question for anyone seeing this…if I changed the pulley from the stock B20B pully to the LS pully, would I get the LS timing belt? I imagine the cam gears are spaced the same distance apart, at least they look like they are.
Any help?[/QUOTE]
Nevermind. I just found out they are the same part number and it wouldn’t matter anyways, as the pully has no affect on this. It’s been a long week, already.
I am getting ready to do this swap, and i cant thank the guys that posted the info enough.
B20Z help
i swapped a B20z With jdm B16 trans. I have an intake, header, exhaust bigger fuel rail and injectors that put out 10% more fuel than stock ones and am running the ls ecu. It seems like i am running a lil rich just a tad of blackness on my bumper after 2000 miles and a backfire, also studders a lil at idle but idles right a 750. The car pulls hard and when i get on it you can tell it is not missfiring. I used to have a B20B and switched to the B20z and am loving the higher compression if anyone has any info for he let me know what you think. Thanks BC
My opinion? Yes, you probably are running rich, especially if you are getting backfiring and a lot of black soot on your bumper. Mine ran well enough to drive with about 5% more fuel, but it wasn’t very smooth at all until it was tuned. With tuning, mine runs smoother than a stock B18 (and makes a lot more power). Running a B20Z on a stock LS ECU is like running a Type R on a stock B16 ECU. Yes, you can make it run, and yes you can add fuel to compensate for some of its shortcomings. However, unless you remap the ECU with the proper fuel curve, it is not going to run to its full potential. In my opinion, aftermarket fuel rails, fuel pressure regulators, and injectors are completely unnecessary on most N/A applications and at best a bandaid. Yes, my B20Z is tuned and bolted to a B16 transmission, and I have been driving the living hell out of it every day for the past 2 years.
How do i go about getn my ecu remap’d and who does it? and if i have to drive my car like it is for awhile is it going to be bad for it in the long run? Can i run a hotter spark plug to help a lil i know some people on here and hondatech were talking about that? I know all of this is like a bandaid but i need to do something cause i prolly wont have the money to have my ecu remap’d for awhile.
i suggest getting an adjustable fpr. i finished my b20b swap not more than a few weeks ago, and went with the stock ls ecu and stock ls intake manifold and fuel setup. the motor had 0 miles on it so i’m still breaking it in… but when i take it took it up to like about 5k or more, i felt the power feel kinda weak anywhere above 4k. i installed the b&m adjustable fpr and set it to 41-42 psi and definitely feel a difference. u’re obd0 also, so getting much done to ur ecu is a bit harder, i’m currently looking for a place that can tune mine, but am low on funds.
so yea, just get an adjustable fpr or some bigger injectors for now… and personally i don’t think u should mess with the heat range, its pretty much stock and u don’t need to run hotter plugs.
I have injectors that flow 10% more than stcok and have a adjustable fuel pressure regulator and i am currently running 40 psi and still am running rich
ur still running rich cuz u have a lil more flow. i just ran my stock injectors and the adjustable fpr. i think since ur running 10% more, u should dial the fpr down, dunno to what tho.
I was thinking the same thing one of my friends told me to dial down by like half a psi or so and go from there but like my friend said he would rather run rich than lean so i guess i cant complain to much
yea i hear that. well its up to u. my car started idling funny earlier… and made me tighten up the FITV, but does anybody with the b20 swap notice what that there are more coolant lines that run from the old b18 block than the b20. like near the thermostat housing of the b18, there is 1 more line than there is for the b20… so unfortunately i didn’t know where to run that one line that came from the IM of the ls, so i plugged it up… and when i unbolted the FITV earlier, no coolant spilled out from where it mates against the IM… that normal? just curious. cuz after pushing my car a lil hard earlier, it started idling very harsh… jumping from 1500-2500 even after it was warm. i tightened up that white/cream colored plastic thing in the FITV and it helped out, stopped the idling issue, but after driving it home… it started doing that again but in a lower range from like 1k-1750… so i’m kinda stumped. i’m gonna try messing with the IACV tomorrow… clean it out and stuff. then prolly buy a few new vacuum lines.
That line is there cause your suppost to use the 18’s thermostat houseing thing. Well i did. And my car has never had bad idleing issues till a few weeks ago. And ive had my engine in my car since last june. Theres no one near me that can tune obd-0 so im kinda screwed untill i switch mine over to obd-1. Then i will go b20 v-tec FTMFW:shock:
yea. well i changed out the rear thermostat housing… did the FITV, checked vacuum, got a slight leak, it bounces from 19-22 psi, might be the IM gasket, or the tb gasket, or the IACV, i might just fix all 3. we’ll c.