I’ve searched. I’ve read all the old threads on this swap. There are tons of broken links or images that are no longer there. So, with that said, I’m looking for a few answers.
What is the thermosensor mod that has to be done?
Is there a big risk in using the stock LS ECU? One place says it will run too lean, the other says it will be fine.
I’m using the stock LS intake manifold for now, as well as keeping it OBD0, for now. Besides the usual gasket and bellt replacement what else do I need to look out for or swap/adjust/change before the new engine goes in?
Im running really really hot plugs in my z2 and everything from my stock A1, Its still obd-0. The thing about the theromostat you have to change is you have to use the thermostat inlet peice from the b20, and you have to find a plug that plugs into it. And from those 2 wires from the plug you have to run it to the old wires that pluged into the orginal thermostat sensor on the A1. Also you have to chane the drivers side motor mount if your using the b20z2.
I dont have any images, try searching sick_DA b20 in the search function
[QUOTE=sick_DA;1831754]Im running really really hot plugs in my z2 and everything from my stock A1, Its still obd-0. The thing about the theromostat you have to change is you have to use the thermostat inlet peice from the b20, and you have to find a plug that plugs into it. And from those 2 wires from the plug you have to run it to the old wires that pluged into the orginal thermostat sensor on the A1. Also you have to chane the drivers side motor mount if your using the b20z2.
I dont have any images, try searching sick_DA b20 in the search function[/QUOTE]
I searched and didn’t find anything other than my thread here. Can you explain more about this. Which thermostat inlet piece? Can’t you just use the thermostat housing from the B18? Find a plug that plugs into it? Do you mean a sensor, or just plug the hole? I’m using the B20B, and have read that all the B18A mounts work fine…is this not true?
Ok, on the back of the engine you have the sensor that tells the fan to kick on, it plugs straight into the block, it has 2 prongs sticking out, and theres a plugend with a rubber outside that plugs into it. On your b20b althou im not really familar but im quessing the the sensor that tells the fan to kick on is right before the theromost. You need to find a plug that plugs into that and splice the wires, run longer wire so that it can go back to your orignal wiring harness were it used to plug into the back of the block. Im not sure it if matters wich wires you splice those into.
If your really worried you can just wire a switch so that the fan will kick on when you flip the switch. ill explain that if you want me to.
And about the motor mounts i dont think it matters on yours. But i know that the mount that mounts up to the block was different on my b20z2. But probly not on your block.
heres a link, althou the good pictures have expired, this one will probly help you out the most
well said, lol better then i could say it. also again i dont know about the b20b’s but just run a hose off your valve cover to your intake manifold for your PCV valve. Theres a little more to do on the engine i used.
[QUOTE=knightsintegra;1831771]to quote myself from another thread for the thermosensor switch mod.
use the stock motor mounts from the b18, all of them just to be safe
use your old b18 crank pulley if you want to keep your Power steering
That’s all you’ll need to do.[/QUOTE]
Ok, on the back of the engine you have the sensor that tells the fan to kick on, it plugs straight into the block, it has 2 prongs sticking out, and theres a plugend with a rubber outside that plugs into it. On your b20b althou im not really familar but im quessing the the sensor that tells the fan to kick on is right before the theromost. You need to find a plug that plugs into that and splice the wires, run longer wire so that it can go back to your orignal wiring harness were it used to plug into the back of the block. Im not sure it if matters wich wires you splice those into.
If your really worried you can just wire a switch so that the fan will kick on when you flip the switch. ill explain that if you want me to.
And about the motor mounts i dont think it matters on yours. But i know that the mount that mounts up to the block was different on my b20z2. But probly not on your block.
heres a link, althou the good pictures have expired, this one will probly help you out the most
Thank you soooo much! Exactly what I was looking for. Searching B20 Swap only returned the same threads. You two helped out tremendously! Wiring switches and whatnot are no big deal, I just didn’t know what the mod was, exactly and it’s been explained perfectly. Again, thank you both.
No problem… Kinda wish it was explained this good when i did my swap, but o well. Put an I/H/E on your car and have it retuned posibly bigger injectors and hotter plugs, and you will put down decent numbers.
I have H/E, and hotter plugs and i am really happy with it. planning on puting the B16 tranny in it and caming it, i cant wait! :ohyeah:
Here’s the deal with the ECU. Some say to just run an LS ECU. Some say to just use an adjustable FPR to bump the fuel pressure up because it may run lean. With my B20Z, it was running lean and wouldn’t even idle, so I had mine chipped and dyno tuned. What I did was have them install the Chrome chip in my ECU and go ahead and add more fuel (they added about 5% more) which made it drivable so that I could get it to the shop. This was probably equivalent to bumping up the pressure on an adjustable FPR. However, after tuning it felt like driving a completely different car. It was about an hour drive to and from the shop, so I got a good feel for it immediately before and after tuning. If someone took me on a ride blind folded before and after, I would have said it was a different car. It runs so smooth and makes so much power for a stock nonvtec with I/H/E. 146whp/137wtq. If you are getting the 8.8:1 compression motor, the fuel mapping and pressure might not be as far off, but a tune will still probably yeild more power than any other mod for the money.
OK, so bottom line, if I want to have a decent car, is to chip and tune…that’s what I was thinking anyways. I have a JDM B20B with the P8R head so I’m over 9:1 compression(either 9.2:1 or 9.6:1) so I’m thinking now the LS ECU will run it like shit, huh?
Awesome. Now I have to beg my baby momma to let me spend more money. Damn having a gf and a baby is great but sucks for trying to modify a car, man.
you’re welcome for the info. I did a lot of searching as well as trial an error before i figured it out.
I also had the b20b with p8r head and it needed more fuel, i just ran it as it was with stock ecu/fuel pressure cause i wasn’t racing and nobody around here can tune, but i could tell there was a lot being left on the table. I just needed a running car at the time though.
i dont think you will have to mess with the fuel to be honest. Mine is the highest compression one you can find, and im still running stock everything.
[QUOTE=knightsintegra;1832486]you’re welcome for the info. I did a lot of searching as well as trial an error before i figured it out.
I also had the b20b with p8r head and it needed more fuel, i just ran it as it was with stock ecu/fuel pressure cause i wasn’t racing and nobody around here can tune, but i could tell there was a lot being left on the table. I just needed a running car at the time though.
the swap is pretty cake, but good luck.[/QUOTE]
i dont think you will have to mess with the fuel to be honest. Mine is the highest compression one you can find, and im still running stock everything.
So you two think I can run the stock LS ecu and maybe just add an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to up the pressure and drive it fine for a bit until I upgrade? If so, that would be awesome. I’d like to do the OBD-1 stuff swap down the road, but funds aren’t available right now to do that, if you know what I mean…
^That’s what a lot of people do. It will just be a whole lot smoother and make more power once you tune it (and probably last a whole lot longer, too). Upping the fuel pressure will probably get you by for a little while, but there are varying results with how the car runs.
my b20 swap with stock 91 pr4 ecu ran great for the three years i had it. Then when i sold the car to my brother he beat the crap out of it for a year before it finally let go, but he’s had two rebuilt chevy 350’s that have only lasted 6 and 2months respectively. So, the b20 did pretty well.
Right, I’m not planning on taking it to the track like this, but I should be able to drive it around once in awhile and keep it mobile until I get a good ECU right?
Yea i daily drive mine, and only get on it when im pissed or when im just in the mood and its held up fine, After i get an better exhaust, better clutch and an intake im going to have it tuned. I want to go with the AEM program, but everyone swears up and down on hondata. I might just get a regulator and just let more gas flow but who knows… I need this engine to last atleast a few more years before i can rebuild it and build it for CR-V tec. I wonder if the hot plugs and the lean air to fuel ratio is wats making my gas miledge poopie! lol
^My B20Z got 30-31 MPG with a LS transmission, but has now dropped to around 28-29 MPG since I switched to the short geared B16 transmission. I got a wide range on my previous 280k mile B18A from 25-26 MPG around town up to 29-30 highway. So, properly tuned, the B20 should get the same or better than a B18.