Hello,
In my video I am pulling and pushing on the driver’s axle and you can here the metal on metal noise, and the movement back and forth. I suspect the bearing in the intermediate shaft. What do you think?
Any chance it is the driver’s axle? I would think not since it is solid metal at that point and no moving parts at that point, just the splines.
If it is, is it hard to change? I never found any posts online showing the replacement of the bearing, only about diagnosing a bad one. Has anyone ever changed one?
I would rather avoid changing the axle out for a junk yard one; the quality of them up here in Quebec would likely not be good.
//youtu.be/8rg3uk-xwQs
FYI, yes I know that I have an oil leak. I’ve posted my pics on that in another topic and it was the cam seal. I’ll inspect around the oil filter also to make sure it isn’t leaking from there.
A small update. I went ahead and bought the bearing and inner /outer seals. Pulled the driver’s axle and intermediate shaft. I haven’t pulled the bearing out since I needed to go and buy a snap ring tool. But I saw the outer seal was disintegrating due to the oil leak from the cam seal (at least that is the only leak I found so far, need to inspect closer). The oil leaked down to that area over a long period of time and ate away at the seal. You can see in this video how the whole area is wet with oil residue. I made this video after I did some trial and error trying to find the right tools to get the three screws off that hold the shaft bracket.
I’m going to also change the clip that goes on the splines of the driver’s axle, since I want everything in that area of be in good condition.
//youtu.be/RKuankb1N48
Why not just upgrade to the dc2 94 ls halfshaft and axle.
All y I u need is the axle, halfshaft and trans oil seal for a 94 ls.
I did on my 91 and never looked back.
Because used parts are not so available or cheap enough to buy here. And if you find some they are likely just as bad due to the weather up here and heavy salt use on the roads.
And changing the bearing is far less cost. About 50$ for the bearing and two seals.
New car parts are not cheap here like US and shipping is rarely reasonable.
Well looks like I’ll be going to the junk yard for a complete assembly. I did not expect this to happen; The rubber bearing support that is sealed to the metal support ring ripped out! I had my plates as close as possible to the shaft on the back side.
But of course after the fact I know what I did wrong. I did not notice the rubber at first, I thought that the bearing was metal to metal with the support ring bracket. Even as I was trying to press it out and it didn’t look right, I guess I had a brain freeze and kept going.
I needed to put a support ring on the backside. The support ring sits all around the rubber and supports it. The Acura manual shows the support ring (page 16-8 for 1991 if you want to see) but they call it a support base. Since it was a cross section I didn’t consider it as a ring. I went back and looked at my bearing kit and I had a ring that fits perfectly. I set it all up and was able to press the axle out of the bearing. I’m sure if I did it right the first time it would have pressed out correctly.
Now I just need to find a complete intermediate shaft. Anyone in the Montreal / Vaudreuil got one to sell? And even if the bearing is not good, at least I got a spare new one still to use.
If I go with a DC half shaft and left side axle, do I need to change the transmission seal? I saw this on another forum but he may have said it just as a precaution due to wear. I’m sure I’ll find a DA one, but the DC ones are every where, even new for 80$ on Ebay in Canada.
The DC one lines up with the bolt holes with no issues?
Does anyone know if Honda takes parts back if they were never opened?
Here’s the pics. I am dumb.
Question for you…what lead you to check out the shaft in the first place? Maybe that play is normal? Were you getting any issues/vibrations when driving the car? Just curious for my own knowledge.
It was just a process of elimination. I’ve had axle issues before on the Integra and the noise I was getting was similar but still unique. It got worse over time but still difficult to figure out. Usually at speed if you turn one way or another you can find out what side it was coming from. But not with this noise. Towards the end it was changing a little while turning at speed.
So I figured I have the tools to change it and it didn’t cost that much. The worse case is I have a fresh intermediate shaft and while it was off I could clean the lower back side of the engine.
But then I screwed up and now I have a bit of a headache. I wasn’t even planning to work on it that night. I just wanted to test my new C-clip remover on the axle. It came off without any issue. So I said to myself I’ll just take the next 5 minutes to push out the axle. Well that didn’t work out as I expected. I wish I had a time machine.
I’m seriously considering now to switch over to the DC setup. My original plan was simple and cheap and had no real downside, until I screwed up. If I go with a used DA shaft it may be ok.
The safest, but most expensive route is to buy a DC setup. Amazon has the DC shaft for 100$ CDN, but that would require the cost of a new driver’s axle and the transmission seal.
http://www.amazon.ca/Yonaka-Integra-Intermediate-Halfshaft-Stronger/dp/B0026VDBJ8
And would these axles be what I need?
http://www.amazon.ca/Yonaka-Acura-Integra-Driveshafts-Joints/dp/B000EDAHTM/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1437761595&sr=1-9
And the Driver’s side oil seal I would need is for a 94+ Integra part number 91205-PL3-A01.
Just to be clear I have a stock 1993 B18 engine.
Are these things all I need to switch to 94+ axles?
Any comments on the DC parts I want to get?
Come on G2IC! where’s everyone at?
Well I bit the bullet and bought the parts on Amazon. 298$ CDN taxes and shipping included. Just need to pick up the seal at honda on Tuesday and return the seals and bearing that I bought for the 93 shaft. 10% restocking fee for the returned parts.
Ok guys, I really need your help on this one…
I got the new 94+ seal in, and I am trying to get the new 94+ half shaft in. It goes most of the way but needs to go about 1/4 inch more and I can’t get it in. There is no clip on the splines on the half-shaft. I oiled the splines very lightly with 10W30 oil to help a bit.
Is there anything missing? Do I need to just rubber mallet the thing all the way in? I don’t remember it being that tough to get the old one out. More oil on the splines? I didn’t put grease since it was going into the transmission, should I put some on?
Here are some pics of the two half-shafts. very little difference between the two; The total length from tip to the ring is 75mm for the DA and 77mm for the DC. Spline section is same length, except the DA one doesn’t have splines for about the lower 4mm.
HELP! HELP! before I start bashing it!
I just took out the seal and tried the old half-shaft and it slides right in with no resistance. The new one goes in a little rough but slides in to about 3/4" left and won’t go further. Looks like it stops as it gets to the splines. I looked at them both and the old splines have deeper grooves. It’s hard to see if there is a spacing difference. But no way it is going in.
Need to contact the Amazon seller and hopefully it will go ok.
So far great service I am getting from Yonaka/Streetimports.ca. They looked at the pics and videos and are sending me a replacement today by UPS. They didn’t say that the unit looked defective but said it was not normal and don’t rule out a manufacturing defect. So I sent the complaint on a Saturday, talked on Sunday and this morning, and this afternoon getting it resolved (hopefully). They’ll get a positive review at least for this.
I got the replacement and it went in! Finally something going right. I have to commend streetimports.ca and Yonaka. They both responded quickly and did the right thing. The only thing left is the original shaft they sent me. So far the last thing they said was to keep it unless Yonaka may want it back to examine it. But so far no extra cost on my end. I’m always worried about online purchases because of return policies, especially when I live in Quebec and most parts come from the US.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwHP6XF4zk0
Did the new axles and intermediate shaft fix your issue? I replaced my intermediate shaft bearing 3 years ago I think. It was a little confusing at first with the shields and all but all went well.
Before I changed out the driver’s axle and intermediate shaft, the rolling sound I was hearing began to turn into a clicking noise as well. After the change there was still a very very slight rolling noise, but it went away after a few days of driving, and no more clicking noise. So one of the two parts that I changed made a big improvement. I can’t say with 100% certainty that it was the intermediate shaft, but my seal between the driver’s shaft and the bearing was finished and oil had soaked the rubber holding the bearing. The oil seems to have come from that breather box on the back of the engine; it is all rusted. I need to change that out before it leaks on the new shaft. Doesn’t look easy to change due to the location.
I didn’t change the passenger axle yet. The little noise that may be still there is not concerning me for the time being so I will leave it as-is. Anyways the car is off the road for the winter and I got to change the master cylinder (leaking), remove and clean the brake booster, and change the oil breather box over the next few months.
I get a weird smell from the engine bay after driving the car. I thought at first it was stuff burning off the engine from being cleaned. But over a year later it was still smelling. Hopefully fixing all the oil and brake fluid leaks will make it go away; could be from the liquids getting hot on the engine block.
