what causes both of these lights to go on… the thing that drives me crazy is i dont know what the problem is. when i start my car i have both lights on and i get a rough idle you know the up and down type idle. after i drive for about a block both lights turn off… did anyone have this problem before???. and what causes that rough idle i reseted my ecu and it still doesnt work. btw the rough idle happens only after i let my car sit for a few hours or in the morning…!!:mad:
anyone?
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mine did the same shit.(battery lite blinked when accelerating)…check your battery connection and see if the wires are bad etc. also it could be ur alternator
i had that happen to me it was my alternator, then it finally blew on me and blew my main fuses.
I have the exact same problem, except my lights stay on all of the time. Basically what it comes down to is either a bad ground on one of the wires on the harness that plugs into the alternator, or a bad voltage regulator. I discerned this from the troubleshooting flow charts in the helms, so you may want to look thru it for your specific problem. In my case, bad VR i think.
Originally posted by matt90GS
I have the exact same problem, except my lights stay on all of the time. Basically what it comes down to is either a bad ground on one of the wires on the harness that plugs into the alternator, or a bad voltage regulator. I discerned this from the troubleshooting flow charts in the helms, so you may want to look thru it for your specific problem. In my case, bad VR i think.
wheres the voltage regulator…?
Originally posted by iNTRiCATe789
wheres the voltage regulator…?
It is on the alternator, under the gray metal piece that would be on the back of it if you were facing it from the driver’s side.
Same thing just happened to me and it was my alternator.
Dont have the helms infront of me, but if I remeber correctly, the ABS light will go on when the voltage drops below a certain level as it isnt able to operate correctly.
So I can only say that possibly your alternator, I think the voltage regulator is inside the alternator though so you may have to just swap it out.
OK, Helms 19-50 (Ch/Pg)
" The ABS indicator light will come on and the LED will display a code when there is insufficient battery voltage to the ABS control unit. An example would be when the battery is so weak that the car must be jump-started.
After the battery is sufficiently recharged, the ABS indicator light will work normally after the engine is stopped and restarted.
However, after recharging the battery, the code muyst be cleared from the ABS control unit’s memory by disconnecting the ABS B2 (15a) fuse for at least three seconds."
-your welcome for the typing…
Hope this may help…
Also check/replace your brushes while you are down there. If do it all at once or you might have to get down there sometime later again to get that done. My problem was not the VR it was the brushes because since they were less then 1/16 of an inch they weren’t running against the side of the rotor inside. I kinda took the brushes from my dad’s Toyota Landcruiser and just sand it down to fit my brushes housing. Well now the lights don’t come on anymore.
Originally posted by mAtrixkiCker
Also check/replace your brushes while you are down there. If do it all at once or you might have to get down there sometime later again to get that done. My problem was not the VR it was the brushes because since they were less then 1/16 of an inch they weren’t running against the side of the rotor inside. I kinda took the brushes from my dad’s Toyota Landcruiser and just sand it down to fit my brushes housing. Well now the lights don’t come on anymore.
do you have to take the alternator off.???to do this job… how hard is it … ?
The hardest part is getting the alternator out which is a pain in the a$$ because you have to remove the left side axle to get the alternator out. Some people claimed that they had gotten the alternator out without having to get the axle off but I don’t know how they did it, I wish I knew. Putting the brushes in shouldn’t be hard but the its annoying trying to keep the spring from not popping the brushes out again.
In case any other rookie g2 “mechanics” (like me :rockon: ) wander by here looking for confirmation on this problem like I did:
Same problem of ABS and battery dash lights coming on, would go off once I got above 2000 rpms, then a few days later I would have to go to 3k before they shut off, then eventually the lights stayed on regardless. Also had the sterio (non-stock, Kenwood system) started flickering on/off, on/off, on/off !!! Then I went outside to start the car this week and it was dead. Not enough power to turn her over.
Did some research on g2ic.com and realized that it was probably the alternator/voltage regulator because my battery was definitely not holding a charge. I also realized that being a newb :worry: , I might want to watch an expert take apart my d/s wheel assy and transaxle, rather than doing it all my lonesome for the first time in my garage with my crappy Walmart ratchet set, to fix my alternator. I also made the conscious decision to replace the 15yr. old original alternator rather than simply replace the brushes…
Soooo, had it towed down to a reputable but small local Japanese auto repair shop and the owner let me watch for some OJT. Man, I need a set of impact tools! 
Anyways, he replace my bad alt. with a nice new Denso OEM one, and now my teg is a new machine. Problem solved. 