Battery cable extension for new Odyssey battery location

So im installing an odyssey battery with a new bracket right below the current battery location on the frame. I have the rivnuts in to mount the bracket to the frame, but the positive battery cable isnt long enough to reach down there to the new location. What is the best way to extend this? I havent had a chance to inspect the cables and how they are routed in the harness but I wanted to get some others feedback if you have done this.

I know Colins done this, below is a pic of his, and is the same setup im going for.

Is it safe to extend the current cable? If not, what are my options to extend and from where?

Thanks!

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i am in the same boat. the power wire coming off the battery goes to the fuse box next to the shock. its 2 tiny terminals that go into the same loom. its really easy to follow where the main power goes. if you follow it, you can see its just taped in with another harness. if you cut it open, you could most likely just separate it from the harness its attached to and re wrap it.

i got a 2 gauge wire that i am going to make my new power wire. im going to by pass the stock one altogether… the hard part is getting those 2 tiny terminals on a 2 gauge wire. when you look, youll see what im talking about…

It’s safe to extend the wire. Just use the same gauge. Listen to DA_all_day and make a new one altogether.

Personally I’d suggest replacing the existing one rather than extending, but that’s me. If you extend it, just do it right with a BEEFY butt/splice connector or blowtorch to solder it together. This heavy gauge wire isn’t the easiest to work with in regard to splicing and extending. Although it looks relatively factory, all of my charging system wiring is custom. The factory starting/charging system wiring is not much to my liking so I just re-wired it all. This is the second time too since previously I had the battery in the trunk. And I’ll likely do it again because eventually I want to put the battery behind the passenger seat on the floorboard.

If you decide to re-wire it’s pretty easy, and you DO NOT have to follow the exact routing of the stock system, there’s definitely some flexibility in how you can put it together. The hardest part to make clean is getting the larger gauge wires attach to the fuse box. I did a LOT of trimming of my fuse box to get them to fit. Here you can sorta see how big the wires are. The fuse box is open in this pic, I trimmed it so it will close even with the larger gauge wires. Yet another thing I need to re-do since I want to replace my GSR fuse box lid with one from an RS, but I just didn’t feel right about trimming a brand new part right out of the Honda bag.

can you post a picture of how you have those wires connected in the fuse box… like what terminals you used…

They are just standard copper ring terminals. Please forgive the shitty cell phone pics, I just ran downstairs real quick to snap these. Also, the heat shrink looks weird but is is fully shrunk, I had to use a larger dia in order for it to fit over the wire and a splice (iirc) further down the wire. So it couldn’t shrink down over the terminal as much as I would have liked. Actually now that I think about it I should throw another piece of heat shrink on the end to clean it up a little.


Untitled by C o l i n, on Flickr


Untitled by C o l i n, on Flickr

And here is how I had to trim the cover (the lower portion also had to be trimmed)

Untitled by C o l i n, on Flickr

so you have 2 wires coming off the terminal from the battery to go into the fuse box?

is that 3rd wire from the alternator?

Man, I just havent had any time to get working on this. Im assuming the two wires that are on the same fuse are the battery and the starter? And the other cable on the separate fuse is for the alternator?

Thats what I need to figure out is what cable needs to be replaced to extend the positive cable that goes from “here” to “there”.


It looks like from this pic, the left cables are the battery cable and starter cable that are crimped in the same copper ring terminal in the fuse box? So thats what I would need to replace? I could just get some cable, run from battery to fuse box, then from started into same copper ring terminal as battery in fuse box?

Now im confused. Could colin please draw us a picture of how the wires are ran and from where.

Sorry, I missed the last couple posts here… Honestly I don’t remember the exact wiring and what wire is what, it’s been a few years since I set this up and have done it a handful of ways on different cars. But I think the above guesses are correct, battery and started connected to the left terminal, alternator on the right. The two wires on the right are not crimped in the same terminal, its two separate ring terminals. But that doesn’t matter, you could use a single one too if it’ll fit.

If you guys want I could pull it apart a little and report back. But really I think you are over thinking the whole thing. The options are fairly limitless in how you can set it up. “Here” and “there” is relative, it doesn’t have to be a certain way. For instance instead of having the battery and started connect directly to the fuse box you could hook the battery to the fuse box and the starter directly to the battery. These two things are identical in results, just different in schematic. You could also run the alternator to the starter, starter to the battery, then battery to the fuse box. And so long as your wire sizes are appropriate you could lay it out a in a bunch of other configurations. You should just do what works best for your specific situation.

I wanna be like collin. If its not too much trouble, Could you post up exactly what you did?

Its so simple. Just separate it from the harness. Terminal closest to battery goes to the battery, closest to firewall goes to the alternator. Starter power comes from the battery. I ran all 4ga. Had to cut up my fusebox, but can’t tell with it closed. Its actually a very simple task.

Slightly different view:

BATTERY

  • Wire runs from battery to left terminal in fuse box. In photo this is the lower of the two connected to this terminal. The wire runs from the positive battery terminal up around the transmission mount, under the intake tube, upwards to the fuse box.

STARTER

  • Wire runs directly from starter to left terminal in fuse box. In the photo this is the upper of the two connected to this terminal.

ALTERNATOR

  • Wire runs directly from the alternator to the right terminal in the fuse box. In the photo you can barely see how it bends downward from the fuse box behind the other wires and if you look closely you can see where it enters the engine harness at the plastic “T” junction just under the intake tube and to the left of the taped/loomed wire which runs to the starter. Once in the loom it goes behind the engine and terminates at the alternator just like the stock wiring would.

Just remember, this is how I did mine, but it is by no means the only way to do it. The options are nearly limitless.

its really easy I just did mine also and I ended up running new cable for both battery and starter.
just make sure you take your time and wrap everything.