I’m having an extreme battery drain and I’ve done a lot of test and still can’t figure it out.
I’ve tested and removed each fuse with a test light. While having the negative battery cable off I took a fuse out and put the test light wire clamp wire to the negative post and the test light on the positive terminal. Each time I took out a fuse the test light would light up and i’ve done this with EVERY fuse including engine bay fuses.
My reading on the voltmeter shows from .35 to .45 jumping around constantly
Am I doing the test wrong? because I’ve taken all the fuses out and test with test light and the test light lights up even with every fuse out.
By the way I had the auto seat belt connections out while doing these test so it can’t be the seatbelts and replaced the number 23 fuse and other fuses with new ones. I also unplugged my ecu and still the same problem. FCM help me out!
You are not doing the “parasitic drain” test properly.
Disconnect the batt. neg.(-) connect the test light clamp to the batt. neg’(-) and connect the test light probe to the batt. neg.(-) cable, test light will be in series with the batt. cable and batt. and it will be on if there is a draw then pull a fuse at a time, when you find the circuit with the draw the test light will go out. 94
Okay, I figured I was doing it wrong. I should of known It’s the same way testing it with the multimeter. I will redo it the right way with the test light and hopefully find the drain.
Just take out the condenser fan fuse. If you don’t use A/C its useless… Worked for me. No more unplugging the battery every time i leave the car parked.
After I found the drain the voltmeter was around 0.02 to 0.04ish when i found the things that drained (fuse for clock/radio/cig lighter). I still haven’t actually got to check the actual things but its for sure after I take that fuse out while using the test light. Fuse out=test light not lighting up, fuse=in test light lighting up.
Of course I have automatic seat belts they weren’t the problem as I had those unplugged. I know what the drain is now, I just need to check it out and work on it.
you can now pinpoint the circuit by disconnecting each unit one by one (with the fuse in, of course and test light hooked up in series). seeing as how the radio is probably aftermarket, and be most likely to cause a drain, i’d start there