The lowest i seen while cranking droped to 7. Something ill have to chek when the misses gets home yesterday after i started it and charged the battery i shut it down and turned the key back on and it the voltage didnt drop is there any way that the starter could be drawimg yoo much juice
it is a possibility. but a less likely culprit
before we move on though, we need to identify the problem. because in the first post, this is what you said:
and this
which definitely indicates a drain. but then you said this:
which doesn’t indicate a drain, but more likely resistance in the starter power circuit cables/connections. but it doesn’t jive with the first 2 statements.
when you first tested battery voltage for a drain, did you at any time between checking the voltages try and start the car? or possibly leave something on between those times?
we’ll get this sorted out here, but moving on without first identifying the problem is futile
Welfare ftmfw!
I can’t stand electricity and wiring… I’ve had to charge my battery a few times, but then it has been sitting for over a year without being regularly used.
I’ll for sure be doing a run-down using this thread to make sure that my car isn’t having excessive draw. Good job man!
Unified The firs quotes are true over the last couple day i pulled the raido out and hasent been hooked up and that seemed to keep the voltage feom dropping below 12.0 volt but ill also have to see if it hasent had engoh time to drain down to 10.0 volt and in regards to the high beams not working im not sure i shorted a circut in the high beam but i changed 1 onf the bulbs and that high beam started working waiting on replacement bulb to get my high beams back to normal
[QUOTE=NpG2dA;2222410]Unified The firs quotes are true over the last couple day i pulled the raido out and hasent been hooked up and that seemed to keep the voltage feom dropping below 12.0 volt but ill also have to see if it hasent had engoh time to drain down to 10.0 volt and in regards to the high beams not working im not sure i shorted a circut in the high beam but i changed 1 onf the bulbs and that high beam started working waiting on replacement bulb to get my high beams back to normal[/QUOTE] about leaving anything on the only thing is the fogs and the alarm
ok. so after you made the first 2 posts, you pulled the radio out? and after that the battery voltage stayed above 12?
is that correct?
but now, with the radio disconnected, you have adaquate batt voltage, but still slow cranking?
is that correct?
Thats seems to be correct im gonna have to double check it tomarrow morning after it sits all night but the misses said that it cranked fine all day so ill have to see in the morning at the end of the day. Again ur guys help is really appreciated. I also went out and when she got he and started it and the voltage wouldnt go up above 13.5 while running and turned off with key on dropped down to like 12.5 and stayed there but ill have to get lastest
Update in the am
Started fine this morning slow cranking again after work
What’s the battery voltage at?
Welp i left the fog light switch on and alarm set came out this morning 10.2 volts with key on and slow crank still exist also with a test light hooked between neg cable and post is lit so that suggest parasitic drain dosent it
A little drunk right now but I will try to help you! First, you checked the water in it right, by popping up the plastic blocks on top…
If the battery is receiving correct voltage while running this rules out the alternator. 13.5 sounds good enough to charge, 14 being ideal.
Battery either has bad connections or is bad. Do you know how old it is? Have you tried replacing it?
Personally I’ve seen issues with poor grounding of both ends of the negative terminals to the battery, the recent heat i’m guessing is making resistance worse.You should try this since it’s sometimes a free fix and your car could probably use it anyway in a 20 year old car…
Check the wires to the negative battery terminal on both ends, the battery end and by removing battery tray, the 2 connections to the transmission mounted ground and bay wall, clean the wire and the mount and underside of the bolt (everything touching the wire) with a steel brush or sandpaper (smoother is better), wash and re-attach.
You can do this for the positive (which includes cleaning fuse terminals) also but its usually the neg I see corrode bad.
It’s gonna crank slow on 10.2v for sure. So it sounds like you do have a drain then.
We will move along to the amp draw test then.
Take your meter and range it to the 10amp setting. Disconnect the positive cable and place the red lead on the positive post and black lead on the cable terminal. Make sure all lights or accessories are off, door is closed, key is out of ignition. If you can, have the alarm armed while testing. If you have a hood pin, tape it down. You may have to leads connected for 10-30 minutes to allow the vehicle to go into sleep mode. Take note of the reading at the beginning, then see what it drops to in about half an hour. With the vehicle in sleep mode, you shouldn’t have more than .05amps. If you do, there’s a draw. If you do, try disarming the alarm, waiting 30minutes and see what it’s at then. In order to test accurately, you have to make sure not to wake the vehicle. A vehicle not in sleep mode will cause a draw
I relocated the battery to the trunk so hood pins not a problem but i tried the amp test and it made the alarm go off also this morning voltage was at 11.0
Welfare doing the amp test im showing .14 before car goes to sleep after car goes to sleep and i hit the probes to the terminal i hear an aduible click sounds like its coming from the seat belt retractor and then it reads .31 time to start pulling fuses
You have to leave the probes connected to the terminal and post while testing in order for it to go into sleep mode. If you remove the probes, the vehicle loses the battery connection and will wake up once the connection is made again. The probes must stay connected for the duration
What gauge cable did you use when you relocated the batt?
I had the probes connected for around 30 mins or more and the voltage stayed at .15 volts even after that time period. i also disconnected the negative terminal and the volatage started to go up and held until i reconnected it then the voltage dropped
Wer’re testing for amps, not volts
My bad i ment .15 amp after trying that i had the bAttery hooked up then i disconnected the negative terminal and the volt went up im guessing thats means theres a short. Does that mean its on the ground side. Again thanks for your help welfare. sh*ts really starting to urk me changed the altanator saturday just to rule that out and no change in problems
You mean amps went up?