No i did the amp test correctly by disconnecting the positive cable from the positive terminal set my meter to 10amp put the red probe to the post and the black to the cable shut all doors and set the alarm meter read .15 amps went back out half hour later and still was at .15 after that hooked battery back drove to work back and forth when i got home i set my meter to read voltage and battery read 12.36 i then dissconnected the ground from chassis to make sure it wasnt corroded and made a new ground point by sanding down to bare metal while i was sanding i left the meter hooked up between the positive side of the battery with cable attached and and the negative with out it being grounded to the chassis and that was when the volatage started to go back up to around 12.76 and held
Yea, there’s gonna be a voltage drop when it’s hooked up. That .15 amps uses some voltage to power whatever is causing that load. When you disconnect the cable, that load is no longer powered and full battery voltage is realized.
.15 amps is a bit high. Try it with the alarm disarmed. If that doesn’t lower the draw, start pulling fuses
And thanks to the formula provided by ohms law, we can calculate the resistance.
.40/.15 gives us the resistance of the entire vehicle. 2.67 ohms
Ohms law is mathematical perfection. It takes 1 volt of power to move 1 amp of current through 1 ohm of resistance. Such a simple and beautiful equation.
Welfare !! After removing the clock interior light cigarette fuse amps droped to .03 is there a common place in that circut that shorts out. Also is is there any way to tell if it was the icu because with the fuse out i lose my side markers also with clock and ciggerette un plugged and all interior light off if the fuse is in there is a draw so that would eliminate a short in the cig circut and the clock correct
I’m not quite sure i understand what you’re saying about the icu. Can you clarify? But a way to further diagnose where the problem is, is to start unplugging each item in the circuit, one by one, until the amps drop down.
Really im just curious as to why with the fuse for the clock cigerette lighter and INTERIOR lights removed y it would knock out my sidemarkers also i unplugged the clock and the lighter and the draw wAs still there when fuse was in
Try disconnecting the icu and see if the draw drops
Also just noticed i dont have any itermitant wipers
Sounds like a problem with the icu. Disconnect it and see if it lowers the draw
Welfare also my raido wont turn on unless that clock cig lighter interior light fuse is in also
Did you try disconnecting the icu to see if that lowers the draw?
I havent got a chance to check the draw cause i blew the fuse in my meter so i have to wair till tomarrow but should i pull the icu from the back of the fuse panel or should i just unplug it thanks again for your help
Unplugging it will do. Install the clock/radio fuse as well
Wellfare had the fuse in for four days now and starting fine im gonna do the draw test again finally got fuses for my meter i just wanted to say thank bro for all the help hopefully every thing turns out ok
Awesome, man. So that’s with the icu unplugged?
Ye keep us posted, bud
No that was with the icu plugged in all that changed i unbolted the fuse box remove the icu and harness reinstalled also removed map light cover lossened bolts and loosened the dome light i dont kno if thats where the short was happening but that was what was recently done so im gonna have to keep an eye on the voltage
Parasitic drains! I hate them. May I share that my draw was .38amps. As I pulled fuses under the dash, it ended up being my automatic seat belt system. When I dissconnected the “seatbelt control Module”, the draw went back to a normal .04amps therefore I didn’t have battery drain overnite. I can let the car sit for a week, then start it up with no issues. With the .38amp draw, the battery voltage would read around 10volts the next day.
Uplugging the seatbelt control module was a bandaid fix. It wasn’t actually the module itself as I swapped it with known good ones and still gave me the .38amp draw. It is the cable wires that are plugged into it that may be the culprit. It runs under the carpet and under the seats and there must be a open wire or short in there somewhere. Right now I have no draw with it disconnected and I’m too lazy to rip apart the carpet and seats. Just wanted to share.
But yours looks like it has something to do with your cigarite lighter fuse or radio as you mentioned. good luck. let us know if you fix it for sure.