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ground cable. under the battery tray. remove and clean it thoroughly. as well, be sure your battery terminals are clean and tight
I just had a similar problem. Cleaned negative post, changed whole ground cable and terminal. Ended up being a bad positive cable and terminal.
Okay I’ll try them out. My valve cover ground seems messed up. I’ll fix the grounds. Thanks
Replace all of your grounds and it should do the trick. Don’t forget the one that goes from the intake manifold to the firewall and the one that goes to the transmission as well.
What’s the best way to replace the grounds? Like make them yourself, buy them? I need to do this and don’t know where to start
buy the cables/wire. buy the terminals. buy a crimper (ratcheting type). you can use heat shrink tubing to seal the terminal crimps. it does provide a cleaner finish. and prevents corrosion. even though the oe does not do this.
or you can pay a shop to do it. a halfway decent pair of crimpers will run you at least 50$
@welfare: any idea how well conventional shrink tubing stands up to temps under the hood, or what kind you have to get? When I used the conventional type, it did not last long… and, the self-vulcanizing silicone tape turned out to be only a little better… 
we normally just use pico products. make sure it has the glue inside wall
we do cables on diesel vans and trucks all the time. never an issue
Summit Racing lists Pico shrink tubing. I may give that a shot. Overall, I’ve been disappointed with the products I’ve personally tried in the past in the engine bay. They seem to work well in the cabin, for stereo cables etc, but not under the hood. The ones I’ve tried were worse than the oem stuff, less flexible, more fragile, and all seem to fall apart after just a few years. I also see something called “Fire Tape” online, but have not tried it. Redoing a harness three years later is just a giant PITA.
yea, pico’s good stuff. they produce everything you’ll need. i usually like to wrap the harness or repaired pigtail with hockey tape. much more durable and clean than electricians tape.
also, if crimping cable terminals, i like to dab a little flux on the end of the cable before crimping. then, after crimping, heat the terminal with a propane torch and flow a little solder in the joint before finishing with your tubing. you can do this for any non insulated crimp connection. which i personally prefer using over solder alone. it’s cleaner. it’s easier. and offers a solid connection. long as you use a ratcheting type crimper