Well as the title states, just post up some of the things you’ve done to your Teg besides the usual I/H/E, and how they made your car feel.
Examples would be like; Port matching (can be done yourself if you have the right tools, and is free), advanced timing, larger throttle bodies, etc.
My personal favorite bang for the buck would probably be the 75 wet shot we installed in my friends old LS for 200 bucks.
What are some of yours?
Oi, come on you worthless bums, what little things have you done that made an impact more than you thought it would?
Removing the AC and PS drive belts. Yielded much more of a difference than I expected.
Going to a 2.5" collector/header.
dyno tune
You mean chipped ECU, then dyno tune it, right?
Kind of a given…
yup
The A/C and Power Steering delete were great for free performance.
$100 Russel Stainless Brake lines firmed the brake pedal right up.
Urethane bushings on everything but the lower control arms made the suspension flex a lot better. I used OEM LCA Bushings to soften the ride a bit since I have a street driven car. Poly ones are harsher. FYI I also scored Tokico Blues with their brand springs that are soft. Replaced the ball joints and tie rods too. I probably spent about $800 for the entire suspension and did it all myself, including the alignment. I’m happy with it.:sipread:
[QUOTE=therealkroysc;2210654]The A/C and Power Steering delete were great for free performance.
$100 Russel Stainless Brake lines firmed the brake pedal right up.
^ More like Bang for your Benjamins. 
Strawberry Shortcake smellin air freshners are the best bang for my buck haha!
R1
I disagree with all the above, and these are just my opinions. Removing belts while good for performance, the gains are so minimal, on a stock to basic bolt on car you’re not really getting much. They are basically free so that is good. Port matching and throttle bodies are also good, but without the supporting modifications, you’re not getting your moneys worth out of them. same goes for programmable ecus and dyno tuning. bushing replacement is ok, but the cost for most to get em pressed in kinda outweighs the performance advantage. brake lines again . . . if you haven’t upgraded the brakes, no real reason to get em done. Again no offense to anyone these are just my opinions.
Here are a few things I think every G2 owner should do . . .
Our chassis are fairly light, and less rigid than their successors. I think the best things that can be done to our cars is correcting this issue. Start with the Neuspeed 4 point strut bar. Not terribly expensive and very effective. Follow that up with the Explicit Speed Performance traction bar setup. It’s a little heavier than others, but lighter than the stock cross member. By far it tucks up the tightest against the body giving you tons of ground and header clearance. More power is put to the ground, turn in, braking, steering, etc are all greatly affected by its installation. Again for the price of $350ish it’s a great product and benefits the car immensely. A rear sway bar. I like the progress as it is one beefy sumbitch, though if you’re not an auto crosser is prob a bit much for most. The ITR bar is a must for anyone. Finally Hawk HPS brake pads. Longer life, less dust, and superior braking in any condition. You can find them all over the internet.
Just my .02.
you know your in the engine performance section not a autocross section right. nothing you named gives any hp. another few bangs for your buck are pwjdm im (heatshield) gasket $40, ebay test pipe $40, and velocity stack $40-$50
performance is not only measured by horsepower. utilizing the power you have is very important. kinda been one of honda’s staples.
Our chassis are fairly light?? Compared to what? They’re basically the same weight as the DC chassis, and quite a bit heavier than most Civics… not to be a dick, bit saying our cars are light is not exactly an accurate statement.
As far as taking belts off and the gains… Have you tested this mod back to back? I have and the gains were totally surprising. You’re right… not every ‘performance mod’ is measured in horsepower, but most of what you named would not help you in a straight line at all (aside from maybe the traction bar, which I still think would lack in comparison to the belt mod)… Parasitic drag is no joke and seems as though you overlook the benefits/drawbacks of such. I’m not trying to start a debate with you as, for the most part, I believe you to know what you’re talking about…
But my ‘stock, basic bolt-on car’ was able to hang with a modded B17 (albeit with LS trans) after removing belts, vs being instantly pulled on with the belts installed. While the actual wheelHP gained is probably not a whole lot, it reduces the parasitic drag enough to make the mod COMPLETELY worth it. Especially considering that it costs $0. In comparison to the mods you listed, the belt mod is the best straight-line performance mod, no doubt.
was the b17 healthy? what was the compression of both engines? did they both have tune ups recently? you comparing one race with another car doesn’t prove anything. i have seen the gains on a dyno from removing ps and ac on several different cars. the most i saw was 2 hp gain. in the grand scheme of things thats nothing. the areas under the curve were essentially the same. i never said it wasn’t worth it, i said since it’s free sure it’s an ok mod. just not as much as people make it out to be.
yes our chassis are fairly light considering when they were made, the power they come with from the factory, how well they can move their weight in any situation, the amount of heavy ass glass they have due to how big the windshiled and trunk hatch are, etc. they are no miata, but they are imho not underpowered by any means. to me how fast a car goes in a straight line is kinda a stupid way to compare them. and the op didn’t’ specify straight line performance mods did he? he asked what have we done, how did it feel, and list things aside from the usual. that’s precisely what i did. going around town there are straits, banks, corners, constant braking, etc. The real world is far closer to a roadcourse than the drag strip is. Just my .02.
I have no idea what the compression was on each motor… that’s not usually the first question I ask after running someone. My B18a had about 190k on it at the time, and the B17 had about 10k on it. The B18 had no real tune-up, and the B17 had the same 10k on the wires/plugs.
How is it not an accurate test? How does it not prove anything? If I raced two separate cars that just happened to be B17 powered, then I would agree that the comparison is inaccurate. But comparing multiple runs between the same two cars, both pre and post belt-mod… you can’t get much more accurate of a test than that. Regardless of if it was 2whp or .5whp, a gain is a gain… and if its enough to hang or slightly pull on a car that, previously, was instanly pulling away, then that’s all the proof I need to validate said mod.
“In the grand scheme of things…” a gain is a gain.
/end
Junk Yard-10 Bucks Ingalls Rear Camber almost mint…Best bang by far for me…
R1
+1 on velocity stack. you get very good gains. you can look up dyno charts up on honda tech and the setup used.
I remember I bought a used K&N filter($20-$40), but not just any K&N filter. It was about maybe a foot high and maybe 5-6ins wide. Hooked it up to my stock tubing on my accord ,and it made a huge difference in response and power on the butt dyno.
T3/T4 kit pieced together for $300 from Ebay, Craigslist and U-Pull-It yards!
ive had a 92 gs in my family that was bought new. i grew up in that car from riding in the back, to shotgun, to driving it for 6.5 years until i got a 370z. from what i’ve felt driving a friend’s 160hp base rsx and 190hp rsx type s, the gain over a 140hp teg is noticeable but comes no where close to 332hp, as well as the higher torque. my car is also 600lb heavier though.
so even though this is a best bang for the buck thread, i’d suggest a used turbo kit and boost it to ~220-250hp. turbos always have the highest hp gain/dollar
i/h/e upgrades are noticeable yet minimal on a 1.8L
not trying to troll for the record
^
true and false
turbos are good for power per dollar spent. but, if you want to do it RIGHT, you’re going to be spending more dollars than you’d probably like to admit.