I typically get 5w 30 in my car becuase thats what the manual says, but my mechanic just told me i should be using 10w XX,
i forget if he said 30 or 40. Besides that is there a brand or type that would be best for the engines well being?
I have 290k and just got the timing belt and water pump done. It seems to be burning 1-2 quarts between changes if that helps at all.
What should i be putting in?
Honestly If its burning oil often or at 1k miles or after but before 3k and its black dark oil already there is no need in wasting more money for the expensive stuff. If it were me i would just get something with high mileage oil 10w 40 at least or also if it helps u can use NO smoke additive to help reduc ol burning and such. You may use it as often as you want on every oil change but keep it at full not overfill. You should be good for a long while.
I had my old motor at 355k miles burning 1 qt at 1-2k miles i just top it off.
was still going but i swap it out for my rebuild due to smog and i wanted something fresh…
I use the Supertech 10W 30 oil from Walmart… nice price and does the job. I also use the Supertech oil filters…
Dont not go with any type of synthetic oil. Your mechanic is right about going to a higher weight. The lighter weight is seaping through the worn out parts that are not making as tight as seal as they were 190k miles ago.
or
or
unlike most people i doubt, use no more than 10w 40 and add “NO SMOKE” addictive with out without leak sealer as the leak sealer tends to expand of any old rubber or gasket and make it seal better, but for me i have try too many things in testing on my old 355k motor.
I have used big rig thick oil and even used 20w 50 and then added no smoke addictive to it. The 3 things i would say could happen down the road would be
fail oil pump
very hard starting when morning or cold motor.
stress on crank and or internal parts as it is too thick and it is harder to rotate, but no kidding it will seal or at least reduce the oil burning alot.
Also it is very good for lubrication too as it is thick BUT again i would not recommend pass 10w 40 plus no smoke. if u plan to change oil often then get the cheapest oil $10 bucks. and change oil filter every 2 oil change.
THIS IS WHAT I WOUULD OF STILL DONE IF I HAD THAT OLD motor with 355k burning 1 qt at 600-800 miles.
so the consenus is to use 10w 40 and get a “no smoke” additive?
are there certain no smoke additives that actually work well that anyone can reccomend?
I always use
Bardahl No Smoke Oil Additive
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Reduces exhaust smoke in oil-burning cars
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Also helps reduce plug fouling and engine noise; restores compression and improves power and performance
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500mL
Remember that this may work for some people. I do recommend to get the main problem fixed later on though. If your lucky like me after using this stuff every oil change or whenever oil is low overtime due to using it often will produce a thicker layer film on the surface of your gaskets and help seal leaks but that is the one “with leak sealer”. If you get just no smoke its like honey color and if u get the no smoke with sealer its much darker.
Again nothing can fix a leak through the piston rings etc. This is considered a temporary fix as it can be weeks or if lucky and leak is not as bad you can get away with it for over months or even year as time passes .
When using it it will say per label to use only 4 oz per 4 cylinder car but hell i used all 12oz. Trust me use all of it otherwise it will not help much, so to say when u do oil change or topping off ur old oil just make sure it is between the first and sec hole on dip stick it takes about 1 qt to get from the low level hole to the full level hole so good luck.
With each oil change…
I use STP…
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