I was wondering what is the best oil to use for my 93 da.
Depends on what do you mean by ‘‘Best oil’’ and what you plan to do with your car.
Mobile 1, eneos, royal purple and amsoil are good brand for racing.
I personally do a oil change every 3000 miles with vavoline oil though and just drive normally.
PS. Google next time! lol?
It all depends on driving conditions. If its just your DD then all convential motor oil is the same. I would say go with a synthetic blend because it’s a little bit easier on our motors. Full synthetic is nice, but for a DD I don’t see it as necessary. As far as brands go just stick with a name brand and you will be ok. I use a synthetic blend of quaker state simply because thats what I get from our dealership. My baby says she enjoys it so thats what I’ll stick with lol.
I use mobil High miles in the teg and valvoline synthetic blend in the wagovan and pacifica becasue it is much cheaper. Royal purple is WAY to expensive and WAY overrated.
Stolen from HAI, guy is in scca and races often don’t agree with him much but he is a smart guy with experience lol.
[QUOTE=Weston-work;957284]Can’t see why you’d run that expensive of an oil in a street Honda. Oil is undoubtedly very important, but that doesn’t mean you need to spend silly amounts of money on it, especially for a street car. I’ve spent enough years around road courses to see quite a number of engines blow up… It’s not uncommon when you’re beating the piss out of them and running them at full throttle for 40 minutes with another car blocking the air to your radiator, but it’s still pretty preventable. Assuming that the engine was built correctly, the majority of failures are from oil problems… Either oil starvation (G-forces + poor pan design and/or a low oil level), overheating / pressure drop, and/or just shitty quality oil. I’ve found that most oils protect pretty well for the first lap or two, which is usually more abuse than you’ll see on the street or a drag strip, but it’s after extended abuse that typical oils fall down on the job… Most of them will lose pressure fast once you start to get them hot, then the film strength goes into the toilet, and you’ll have metal-to-metal contact between the rod bearings and crank. Once that happens, your engine’s days are numbered. The better oils will take the heat and still hold good pressure, while still being the same weight, they have better film strength to begin with, and they’re loaded with anti-wear additives (which the EPA hates, but engines love). In the event of momentary oil starvation, the surfaces still have some protection, and I’ve seen that alone save a number of engines. It’s amazing to see an engine put through ridiculous hell, then tear it down and see the difference that good oil makes.
The real question here is: Are you doing anything that actually reaches the level abuse where the advantages of high-end oils can be seen? Until then, save your money and stick with a reputable mainstream oil. Valvoline and Castrol are what I use in street vehicles. Not a big fan of Pennzoil / Quaker State and other convenience store oils though.
I run Valvoline VR1 in my race car… It’s a little more expensive, but it has proven itself to us so many times that it’s just ridiculous. We had one engine run hard all day, burst into flames on pit road due to a gasoline leak on the exhaust, sit there with the bottom of the engine engulfed in huge flames for several minutes, and then went back out and raced later that weekend. Didn’t even change the oil that had been cooked, ran the engine with the coolant overheating, and it didn’t have any external oil cooler either. We also discovered that at some point before the huge gasoline fire, the balance shaft timing problem that cracked the fuel rail also cracked the oil pickup tube badly, so the oil pump was sucking in some air and frothing up the oil while putting out less pressure. We pulled the engine and tore it down, thinking that it would be easily trashed beyond repair… The crankshaft was discolored and blue around the rod journals from the extreme heat, but we pulled the rod caps off and were amazed to discover that the crank journal looked perfect, and the bearings only showed medium wear. The cylinder bore was still in great shape too. We could have just slapped in a new set of bearings and called it good.
I also ran Valvoline synthetic in my Turbo Integra when I ran it on road courses… that car sure could cook oil, but that stock LS bottom end was damn solid, despite years of being turbocharged and pushed hard on road courses and elsewhere. Good oils really will do wonders, and Valvoline’s higher-performance offerings do quite well. We’ve also seen good results with Shell’s Rotella-T synthetic, and Mobil 1, assuming that the proper weight was used and it was full. Stuff like Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs, and other special order racing oils tend to have great reviews, but aren’t really practical… Aside from the higher costs, we go through so much of it, so often, that it makes sense to find a suitable oil that’s readily available at a local auto parts store. VR1 fits that need surprisingly well. Arguing over which of these proven oils has better protection is like arguing the detection range of the Valentine 1 vs the Passport 9500… it really doesn’t matter if one does 4.5 miles and the other “only” does 4.4, when you really only make use of 1 or 2. I will order Redline for manual transmission fluid though… that stuff works wonders, and that’s not something that needs to be changed all that often.[/QUOTE]
There is no such thing as “best oil” every oil is suited for different driving conditions. My suggestion…try German Castrol, Redline or, mobil 1 which I heard that’s what “Honda Racing Team” uses, and stay away from Royal Purple.
stay away from royal purple because?
this thread is useless. its all a matter of opinion on forums like this. you want an answer to your question, www.google.com and bobistheoilguy.com. do some research on your own and you’ll find what you’re looking for.
the most reputable racers in the world use the following
mobil - used in virtually every form of racing in at least one vehicle. side note mobil 1 is the only oil used by endyn.
royal purple - used by all kinds of racing teams from autox to drag and so forth.
castrol - pick a drag team
quaker state - pick a drag team again
amsoil - see mobil
valvoline - see amsoil
take your pick. you’ll hear good and bad stories from everyone about every oil on the market. some will say they use a mix of piss and oil and spit and it works. others swear by mobil, and others swear by amsoil. each one will come up with documentation to support their claim and bash another and so on and so forth.
do your own research
Missed a few like Motul, ELF, Shell, Red Line, Lucas, Torco, Schaeffer … many teams run the sponsors decals but don’t use a visable or available blend.
if you think mobil 1 is good , look here
http://my.prostreetonline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=49021#post49021
i dont know about other people i would only use 10-40 castrol full sythetic, and change it everything 4500 miles
torco oil:D
[QUOTE=icemanGSR;2105785]this thread is useless. its all a matter of opinion on forums like this. you want an answer to your question, www.google.com and bobistheoilguy.com. do some research on your own and you’ll find what you’re looking for.
[/QUOTE]
Agreed. There are countless threads everywhere asking the same questions. There is no 1 definite answer.
Search as stated.