I just got back from a friends shop, where all they do is fix rust, and I was told it was going to cost me 1400-1800 to fix it all. I’m 100% certain that if I go for it my car will be rust free, but the price seems really high. I snapped some pics of the problem areas and wanted to see what you guys thought.
For what its worth, I have none of the tools or skills, or a location to fix this shit myself, so a DIY approach is out of the question. I really like this car and I would like to keep it for a long time, so cost isnt a huge issue for me in the long run, I just want some 2nd opinions.
Drivers side door jamb & quarter
jamb. Looks like surface rust only
Drivers side rocker
cancer starting on the drivers side rear quarter. I know the tire is on backwards.
rear tow hook. This was completely unexpected, last time I looked it wasnt nearly this bad
another view of the tow hook
Passenger side rear quarter
pass side rocker
pass door is a mess
pass door
inside the door
This is the roof. Some mystery accident before I got the car put a small dent in there thats starting to rust. It looks like the windshield will have to be pulled to fix this…
Ouch. Por-15 FTW. Use it on everything immediately to stop the spread of the cancer. A cheaper alternative is Naval Jelly, you can get it anywhere unlike Por-15. The main ingredient in all rust converters is zinc.
If the rust is small and not deep then just sand, por-15, sand, por15, bond-o, prime and paint. Don’t use more than a 1/2" of bond-o or it’ll chunk off with time. Cutting out the cancer and welding in fresh steel is the best option for the bigger and deeper issues. Pulling the windshield is a bitch but worth it in the long run.
The second pic of the lower jamb was likely caused by the door sagging a bit. Fix that before the rust or else it’ll happen again.
If it was my car I’d pull out the carpet and take a gander. If you really want to go all out then strip the undercoating. Rust can hide in the weirdest unseen places.
body filler should never be applied thicker then 1/8", any more and your asking for trouble in the future. the only type of body filler that likes to go on thick is duraglass/tigerhair which is impregnated with fiberglass strands to make it stronger than just regular body filler, but it also makes it a bitch to sand.
your rust problem is no where near the amount of rust that i have on my da. i’ll post pics of my rusty da after i wake up. the worst spots that i can see from the pics is the rear tow hook, passenger 1/4 panel and the passenger door.
to fix the tow hook, driver side and passenger side 1/4 panels the rust will need cut out and patch panels will need welded in. the cheapest route for the passenger door would to be to find a clean rust free one to replace your rusty one.
apperently you wernt paying attention, so let me help you out
For what its worth, I have none of the tools or skills, or a location to fix this shit myself, so a DIY approach is out of the question
OP. that is a lot of rust and as long, as you are 100% sure that in order to remove all of this that they are actually going to cut it out and replace it. then I say it would be worth it. I would try to do as much work as possible to keep the cost down, I.E. removeing all paneling, exterior parts, glass, ext. ext.
everyone keeps talking about this POR-15 stoping rust and dont get me wrong I cant prove that it doesnt, but lets be real. Rust is like Cancer. Do doctors doctors just cover a tumor with ointment and call it a day. No, they have to physicly cut it of and PRAY that you got it all and it doesnt come back. this is the only way to handle this IMHO
I also didnt see these in your pics, but the roof skin along the wind shield, around the quarter window(rear corner) and around where the bumpers and fenders atach to the car are a couple places I would double check aswell:up:
Yeah that tow hook is obviously not a project hes going to do himself, but a little rust in the door jamb? or that passenger side rocker? those are simple day projects that are going to save a ton of money to do yourself after spending a min on the internet researching.
[QUOTE=BLKACK1;2139625]apperently you wernt paying attention, so let me help you out
OP. that is a lot of rust and as long, as you are 100% sure that in order to remove all of this that they are actually going to cut it out and replace it. then I say it would be worth it. I would try to do as much work as possible to keep the cost down, I.E. removeing all paneling, exterior parts, glass, ext. ext.
everyone keeps talking about this POR-15 stoping rust and dont get me wrong I cant prove that it doesnt, but lets be real. Rust is like Cancer. Do doctors doctors just cover a tumor with ointment and call it a day. No, they have to physicly cut it of and PRAY that you got it all and it doesnt come back. this is the only way to handle this IMHO
I also didnt see these in your pics, but the roof skin along the wind shield, around the quarter window(rear corner) and around where the bumpers and fenders atach to the car are a couple places I would double check aswell:up:[/QUOTE]
Thanks Glynn. I know for sure the rear quarters would be cut out and replaced, the tow hook, I have no idea. I might try to find a clean pass door to keep costs down, and I’m thinking about pulling the bumpers and fenders off to take a look. The rear bumper is rusted to shit and needs to be replaced. I’m hoping to find a set of used JDM F/R supports, as I could use the covers too. I dont know what I’m going to do at this point. I might just save my money and try to find a really clean gsr and swap some of my parts onto it. Its not like I have a lot done to my car, I’ve just had it for 7 years and I’m kind of attached to it.
I just wish I had buddies that’d be nice enough to help me out and just teach me… But I’m in the same boat. My rot is a lot like yours, and I got quoted $1500 just for one quarter.
$1800 is a very realistic quote. Paint materials alone would be $300’ish… the labor on top of that, cutting out and welding new panels, etc… it all takes time. It may be better to find a rust free shell and start with another car if you aren’t wanting to spend the money or fix it properly.
Spend the $1800 on a clean, [rust free] shell, way better off in the long run.
Hint… goes for anyone that wants to prevent rusting at the rear wheel arch, remove the edge trim on the inside of the wheel arch, it is just pushed on, it is the cause of rusting at the arch, it retains dirt and moisture. 94
I’ve used anti rust stuff (rust convertor) and it sort of works, but the rust always seems to reappear nearby again. It really slows down the rust though - got a few extra years out of my Integra - but I think this is the final year. New rust is appearing in lots of new areas (living in a Canadian area that uses lots of salt on the roads - really eats away at the metal) My Integra has been a fantastic car over the last 19 years since I bought it - but I’m tired of chasing the rust away… too bad Honda/Acura doesn’t build them like this anymore…
