I feel I wrote too much for a G2IC member who mailed me to help him with body work. So here’s what I wrote just to help you bodywork-curious-freaks get started. It’s just the basics. I could tell my friend (shop owner) to write a more professionalized tutorial but I doubt anyone would actually take the time to body work with the technique quality shops do. If anyone wants to improve this tutorial with better grammar or better bodywork techniques, please do so. 
----Start of tutorial-----
Body work is where it counts - you can have the best paint job ever but without body work your car looks like as. I’ve seen many nice cars with sht bodywork with a paint job perfected.
Before you start anything, these are the materials you should have:
-Any bodyfiller that has a hardner better than the Bondo brand - do not use Bondo because it is a bitch to sand.
-body filler spreader
-Spreading pan (sheet metal is fine. I saw like a wax paper booklet that you can tear off each time you apply body filler)
-Cheesegrader to cut the body filler down when it is SEMI-DRY
-3M Sanding Block (or scrap FLAT pieces of wood)
-Wet/Dry sand paper with grits starting from 80 (Dry), 150(Dry), 220(Wet/Dry), 400(Wet/Dry), 600(Wet/Dry) You can start painting with 400 but some people like to go smoother with 600.
-Primer FILLER from Wal-Mart (it’s not regular surface primer, it should say filler because it shoots real thick to cover deep scratches)
-Putty (I always had a hard time working with this)
Everyone has their own technique of doing body work and experience is where you learn what to do and not. There are so many things that could go wrong but you should know atleast the basics to get you going. You should use the most least amount of body filler around the car.
On my car, my technique was to do each panel at a time no matter how much dents there were. Do not jump around as it is hard to keep track of what you did wrong on each panel.
Before you start anything, buy a grease pen or a sharpy. As a graffiti artist, I used something called a Mean Streak made by Sanford company. It dries hard and is permanent. Anyways, with the pen you have mark ALL dents around the car because once you start sanding, you will NOT see the dents.
*After you mark the dents, work on one panel at a time (it doesn’t matter where. Like I said, it’ll help you remember what imperfections you had). If you have any HUGE dents, atleast try to pop them out.
*Sand with 80-grit 3" or more around the dent until it is scuffed (atleast till all the clear is off)
*Mix body filler with the proper amount of harder until the color of it is consistent). Apply body filler THINLY for the first coat (It should be no more than a few millimeters thick). Scoop a little amount of body filler (Yes and I mean real little) and spread it evenly by wiping in ONE direction ONE to TWO times only. If you accidently made put too much, the cheesegrader is a handy tool to cut it down real fast - make sure you cut it down when the body filler is NOT fully dried - hard as foam as I would say. Sand with a block if you need too then if theres “low spots” add more body filler thinly.
*After you rid the low spots, shape it by dry-sanding with 80 grit. Then 150. Wet sand with 220 and finalize with 400 or 600. If there is pinholes use putty to fill it in. You apply it like body filler but you need to work with it really fast and apply it a lot more thinner.
*Spray filler primer to fill in any deep scratches you left and to check whether you did good job.
Okay that was the basics. You should work with the dents first then the emblems.
The emblems just takes another step. People like to weld shut the holes but its complicated because Honda material is like foil. My technique of sealing the holes is surfboard fiberglass (STRONG). I used it to fill in my antennae hole and two 1" holes on my fenders that the previous owner left for sidemarkers. The pic you gave me was low-quality so I could barely see anything. Don’t worry I have a cable connection if you need to send me huge pics. For a cleaner look, just shave off everything. 
Heres what you need:
-Fiberglass kit. Wal-mart brand it fine but I would still recommend surfboard resin and fiberglass to make sure nothing cracks.
-Grinder
-Rubber mallet or hammer
-Punch or anything to make a “ding” onto the surface
-Same body work tools as above.
*Remove all emblems. Get rid of ALL adhesive because it ruins the finalizing process in the end.
*Grind off all the paint around it and the high spots (if you dinged it to deep)
*With the hammer or rubber mallet and the punch, make a small ding for every hole you see. The ding should be no more than 1" all around.
*Apply any sort of primer to prevent rust from forming.
*Lay maybe 1 or 2 small layers of fiberglass - try not to lay it thick because you don’t want it to extrude higher than the regular surface. The reason for using fiber glass on the emblem holes is because I’ve heard of rust forming when you weld. I don’t know if its true of rust forming in the inside of the hole where you cant reach but I like to play it safe.
*Work with the “dent” like the rest of the car.
Another challenge would be the antennae hole. It’s the same process as above but ANOTHER step. Use all the tools as above but this time you need a welder and a piece of sheetmetal.
In a nutshell:
*Weld a small piece of sheetmetal on the inside of the car. Lay one sheet of fiber glass over the hole to make up for the thickness of the metal. Do body work as usual. Antennae is the hardest part of the car because of the body’s curves. Like I said, warping can occur when you can’t weld good - you can cheat it buy using surfboard resin really thick on the inside and outside of the car. It’ll hold just as good as metal. There is a slight chance it’ll crack if someone actually focuses on that once spot and hits it hard enough.
All I can recommend is PATIENCE when you body work. The process of bodyworking and painting your car should take you ATLEAST 2 months to do (of course off and on). If it doesnt’t take you atleast that long, your rushing.
-----End of tutorial-----
(seriously tho… Oahu?)
