Ok, so ever since i bought my car at 154,000 miles, it hesitates variably between 3g and 7g randomly every now and then, like its loosing all kinds of power. recently it hasnt been doing it AS bad till this weekend when i took a road trip to Texas for TX2K3. On the way down, barley on the accelerator ( where the exhaust is quiet ) it would stutter, and go fine. then it would stutter, stutter and a CEL would come on. So we pulled off, and jumped the OBD1 terminal, shut the car off, and turned it on to the diagnostic mode, and the CEL was gone. Every time we would re-start the car the CEL would be gone. What the hell is this? It would idle at 1,500 with the CEL on, we’d restart the car and itd idle fine at 750 w/ no CEL. Could this be my SFC-Vtec going bad ( fields )? I dont think so though, because i thought so, and turned it off, and it still happened. this is driving me nuts, can someone PLEASE help me!!! Im replaceing the fuel filter tomorrow, but what kind of electrical problem could this be? The major stuttering ( not hesitation ) happens ONL on PART or BARLEY any throttle. could this be my TPS? and how much to replace?
P.S My car now has 164,xxx miles, w/ t-belt replacement at 135,xxx
Could it be the 02 sensor…
I had a CRX with a B16 and that thing did the same thing you described. That was becoz the JDM header that came with the motor needed 2 02 sensors and the swap had eliminated one.
Brian Gillispe at Hasport explained that this was the problem…So, O2 sensor related…
On my old 94 4 door GSR, I had a problem also. The CEL would come on every now and then. I was also running pig rich when this happened and it would bog and stutter. Came to find that the 02 sensor was bad. It made the ECU think that there was a problem and the ECU dumped fuel trying to compensate. So, check that for sure.
Other than that, air filter, plugs (correct gap), wires, cap, rotor and fuel filter could all cause stumbling and hesitation.
Does TPS control idle or does the idle Air control valve do that? I am not sure…Hunting for idle etc etc would be more signs of bad TPS, I would think. best way to check TPS is to find a manual that shows how a multimeter voltage reading when the car is idling tells if its good or bad
Hope this helps!
A new o2 Sensor gots my car running better than it ever has been !
Here here! O2 sensors are the bombodiggity, fo rizzle. Get a new one and slap some LED’s on that sh1t yo. Dayyaammm!
How much was the O2 sensor?
74 after tax. bosch universal. turns out it didnt fix the problem.
mine was $40 at pep boys…bosch. It was $30 without the connector.
I have tried replacing all spark plugs, and the O2 sensor, and still have problem as well.
But it seems that Injector Cleaner helps a bit, at least after putting the cleaner in, it runs a bit better, but still chokes sometimes.
Originally posted by DAKey
[B]I have tried replacing all spark plugs, and the O2 sensor, and still have problem as well.
But it seems that Injector Cleaner helps a bit, at least after putting the cleaner in, it runs a bit better, but still chokes sometimes. [/B]
Are you talking about a stutter problem? A little Fuel injector cleaner solved this problem for me. If it didn’t completely solve your problem, try replacing the fuel filter and running some more cleaner through it. It may also be that there is an air leak in the intake manifold.
Matt: Yes I am talking about the stutter problem, but it only happens when the car is warmed up, would it still indicate fuel filter and/or intake manifold leak?
I found the problem. I was finally able to pull a code from the ECU ( Code 3 ) Which is a MAP Sensor electrical problem. Looked under the hood and wouldnt you know it, the MAP sensor plug was not on ALL the way. Pushed it in, heard a click, and Whollah.
Jesus…This little problem made me buy a new fuel filter, new o2 sensor…oh well. I needed that shit anyways
Thanks for the help everyone!
I found my problem, it was a bad roter in the distributor. It was replaced by some 3rd rate shop a year or so ago when they tried to solve my “car does not start” problem which was later determined to be the EFI relay.
Anyways, this roter was a bit loose, and over time, it’s movement shaked it so bad that it was sparking and became very loose in side, and even damaged my cap.
Replaced both and now car runs great.