Okay I have a 92 gs and I bought the car for 100 bucks and rebuilt the head because it had a broken valve and has been parked for the last year with a full tank of gas. Now that the head is fixed and car is running it seams to loses power and when I drive it it feels like it has I have no power and struggles to get up past 20 mph. Also the check engine like comes on and the rpm jump up to 2000rpms and when I try and read it it just flickers but no real code. I haven’t been able to figure it out plz help!!!
Timings off.
I thought same thing but I have set it twice and timing gun says its dead nuts
the distributor , happen to mine the magnet thats on my old one had craked . might be that !
How about starting by ditching the year old gas. Should be common sense especially since you wrote it in your post.
did u check the timing on the belt and make sure the cam gears are lined up correctly? the distributor is only ignition related timing …check your mechanical timing !!! and maybe that fuel filter is toastt but firstt check your timing
on a one year old car that sits i would check
1.spark plugs
2.distrubtior cap and rotor and wires
3.oil quality
4.fuel filter
5.pcv valve
6. mechanical timing
I did dump out gas…
I replace the
Distributer cap
Wires
Coil
Plugs
ignition rotor
Fuel filter
But it think some of the old fuel ran throught the system. I have not check that magnet your talking about I think I will give that a shot and replace filter again hopping I got a defective one. I will try it tomorrow after it stops raining. Thanks guys
check/clean all your grounds. specifically the ecu ground at the thermostat housing.
after you’ve done that, check the codes again. sometimes you have to really jam that paperclip into the service connector to make good contact.
you’ve got to pull the code(s)
^ to welfare
I sometimes have this bogging too, I have a decent amount of mods that i should feel, sometimes the gas is very repsonsive and the car is very peppy other days it feels boggish
that being said. you say the ecu gound at the ecu housing. My thermosat every since i can remember works on and off. needle will be in the middle, then the needle will drop, then it will go back up stay for awhile then go back down . Could these be a dirty connection cutting in and out? possibly causing the boggin feeling?
hopefully that made sense
when the needle goes up, how high does it go? and when it goes down, how low?
when you say it feels boggish, is it hesitating or cutting out?
needle goes to the middle stays there for awhile, then randomly drops all the way down. then sometimes goes back up then back down
to be honest its hard to say if it feels if its cutting out or hesitating, but probably more hesitating
when it goes down, does the heater blow colder?
if not, try checking the connection and wiring at the sender itself. because of the location, the connection can sometimes get soaked with oil and wire insulation can become brittle crack off
heater always stays constant
i can just be accelerating in second and it feels like something almost taps the brakes slightly, or like its almost cuts off in a way. its slight and its noticable though, also not sure if this has to do with it but when the car does this i notice gas goes down quicker as to when i feel the car us running smooth and responsive, i get better milage. still stumbles me
So I figured out the problem cleaned grounds add extra grounds and it drives fine now and it goes HAM. But then my cel comes on and idles jumps up from 150 RPM’s at stop to 1500rpms at dead stop and then it starts to overheat and it smells super rich and then I shut car off and it stops for the day on a good day on a bad day it will stay off for 2min then comes back on. If I pull back on gas pedal it comes back down as soon as I let go of it it goes back up. I check the cel and it’s says it’s a knock sensor.
What ECU are you running? Sounds like somebody swapped ECU’s on you. It is my understanding that the GS doesn’t have a knock sensor. Might look into that.
[QUOTE=cream1316;2253472]
on a one year old car that sits i would check
1.spark plugs
2.distrubtior cap and rotor and wires
3.oil quality
4.fuel filter
5.pcv valve
6. mechanical timing[/QUOTE]
Werd… and ditch that old gas… it is gonna be closer to varnish than actual gas…