i ve replaced alot of stuff on it cap, rotor, wires and ngk plugs new 255 lph fuel pump from amazon new timing belt from napa cleaned intake manifold,tb, fitv and iacv
i replaced fuel pump which fixed problem for a bit then issue came back few weeks later could pump go bad just like that? so i checked spark plug wires they seem loose wont snug into the plugs so replaced it this morning like 5 minutes ago im having same bogging issue BUT i ve noticed it idles a little better like a little quieter maybe?
my tps is cracked i guess its from hitting the firewall while doing the swapping from 4 door into this da it might be this tps causing the problem but im afraid to spend more $ into it if it dont fix the problem cause the coil or igniter is probably bad too i ve elimating alot of old parts on it though
for ur options should i replace tps first? or maybe fuel pump again??? coil? sorry guys this is driving me nuts im overlyhelmed
thank u guys
edit: only code im throwing is code 17 thats it need to put cable back in it though lol
fuel filters good its a see through filter from o’reilly’s. we did timing belt last month before x-mas, Do u mean ignition timing? i might set it wrong. no cel when jumping the service connector, and i dont know how to use digital timing light i bought it from autozone. I’ve tried set the digital light at 16 set the crank pulley at red mark runs like shit like no power at all then tried set digital light at 0 same result been fucking with it forever with timing light so then i gave up set the distibutor right in the middle of slot runs at it’s best i guess lol
keep this in mind tps is cracked lol or my brand new fuel pump from amazon is toasted
to make sure this is correct way to test it? 20v on meter, the postive probe to pin in the middle of the tps and black on the ground on battery? with ignition position on cuz when i ve tried the test failed lol all the test i ve tried always fail
Then you’ll also want to test it for ‘dead spots’.
With the voltage meter still hooked up, slowly open the throttle. Watch for any voltage spikes or drop-offs. It should steadily rise from the .5V to 4.5V. If there is a major spike, the TPS could have a dead spot in it causing a hesitation when you hold the throttle in that position.
A dead spot is basically a spot in the TPS where the contacts get worn out and no longer work properly…
For instance, if you have a habit of cruising at 60mph in 5th gear, (for example, say this requires 20% throttle) over time, the contacts in the TPS will wear out and you may experience a “bog” or stutter when you stay at that point (20% throttle).
I explained how to test for that in my previous post.
Have you checked the ignition coil? There is a fairly easy way to test them with an Ohm meter. Just Google Testing Honda Ignition Coil, there are tons of write-ups out there
so i replaced the tps last night took a while to figure how to set it now its at .5 closed and 4.5 wot it was running fine with the old cracked tps
with the new ones i ve noticed better throttle response and idles better maybe i will still have to get the fitv sorted out some how readjust it or get one from junkyard the idle seem low and sightly a bit rouugh than should be
overall with it, it probably is the best running car i ever had lmao sent the car to mechanic (my dad said he knows ALLLOOOOTTT) diagnosed with bad injectors??? so i grabbed the injectors from my parts car he got it replaced then called me to pick it up told me runs like new when i picked it up drove runs alot better smiled at mechanic saying thank you then i left drove off and then a few blocks away it started to bog again and i get help from g2ic posting pictures of my engine bay and asking question about wires and plugs and discovered it was 02 sensor so i went to auto zone got new 02 get the exhaust weld a nut on so i can screw it up in there and wire it up runs better but still bogging did the fitv and iacv cleaning which didnt fix the bogging but changed idle though did the timing belt with new belt again runs a little better still bogging so i decided to replace fuel pump to 255 lph which fixed the bogging issue but im getting bad mpg though since my tps is cracked so i replaced them mpg seem the same
so my question is am i getting bad mpg or not? lol my mileage or my speedometer doesnt work i couldnt figure out how much miles i ve driven or gas i used
runs alot better where i can trust it going less than 5 hrs of drive away from home haha i wouldnt trust it going more than 5 hrs away from home once i get past 5 hrs and 1 min im fucked and i will be worried
good thing it hasnt let me down though i love this car it may look ugly as fuck but… needs new paint and interior and some suspension work then im done working on it and start on my mazda
I have the same problem. No Check engine. i did however change the oil, but not the filter. Now my car seem to be only going at a max speed of 60 Mph.Tho driving it’s should like a water sprinkler. Help. If it’s the filter, easy fix right?
its very easy to change oil filter but i dont know if that is causing the problem
so yesterday took it for a road trip 2 hrs from home to ski apache in ruidoso runs great no code when leaving home town then about 25-30 miles poof the cel is on had my girlfriend read the code while i was driving its throwing 43 its annoying when it flashes that code few times since when i did the swap when i had code 43 got it fixed by putting 02 sensor on my exhaust (weld nut on) so 02 sensor is new from autozone new fuel pump a see through fuel filter and new o rings and filter basket for injectors
on the twisties road was fun to practice on corner lol but problem is, it seem gets no power up hill so that shows me its fuel related still so what u guys think