ok here is the deal, i brough a pretyy clean da for decent price, the last owner TRY to shave the side molding , epic fail, but here is the pic any suggestion? how to fix it?
done some sanding
and some bondo work
ok main point of this i cant get the bondo straigh, like i can still see the wavy lines and the side molding lines… so thanks 
Okay, Heres whats up.
the epic fail that the other guy ha wasnt cause he may or may-not have know what he was doing but because of the fact that the location of the moldings are at two differant levels in the body line,
suggestions to try. IMO
sand the body filler till you have a flat even surface with a full metal ridge around it but sand as little of the metal off as you can.
build the body filler up so that it bearly covers the bare metal you exposed along with being taller ( thicker a.k.a further from car surface ) toward the center of the molding area.)
TAKE YOUR TIME!!! and use a LARGE ( 1.5foot long, about 3 to 4 in. wide) SOFT/FLEXABLE sanding Block and take long soft even strokes across bondo.
Make a careful mind note that you must use fine grit, an must sand in ATLEAT 3 directions (4 is best) which would include but not limited to [ up/down, left/right, diaginal from TL/BR and diaginal from TR/BL ]
the thing you have to keep in mind is that you want the Horizontal center-line to be slightly higher the the edges, otherwise all your going to end up with is a flat bodyfiller patch on rounded body panels.
hope it was of some help and if you have any questions about this or other body work referances or procedures feel free to e-mail me at whisenant_joshua@yahoo.com
HOLY BONDO DUST BATMAN!!
The second last pic. Are you using that thing for sanding. If so, that could be your first problem. For something that size, your gonna want to use a sanding board.
ya i used that to grind down most of the bondo, it almost look like a cone… so it had to much bondo on it, im thinkgin grind it down and find the holes and put the stock side moding back on… cause i cant get it straight… lol
any ideas to grind it down faster and nicer other than a grinder???
ya i think that is my best bet it wil look horable with all wavy bondo lines then just no bondo or even no side modlin, but im sure i can find some at junk yard lol,
i need a driver fender, the bottom part have like 2x3inch rust hole :fingban:
i work at an auto body shop at my college so i’ve seen lots of horrible attempts at stuff like this. i highly suggest getting rid of that grinder tho. ever think about looking around and taking an auto body class? even beginners get to mess around with stuff like this and well u can use the equipment, just usually have to pay for some supplies like sand paper and bondo.
but if ur just gonna continue doing this at home, then… go get urself a 3M sanding block, the short ones. then get urself some 40 grit, 80 grit and some 150 grit. also get urself a rasp (looks like a cheese grater). if u had an inline air sander, that would be perfect for this, but i highly doubt u got one. if u just use the 3m sanding block… i suggest that u keep the block long ways so that its horizontal n parallel with the ground/car. u can sand up and down, but keep it leveled, cuz if u sand up and down with the block going vertically, then that will cause u to loose the curve. u r trying to go with the curve not flattening it.
bondo shouldn’t be thicker than 1/8 anywhere on the car too. when using the bondo, go kinda with layers… a thin layer of it… grate it, then sand it, then check for pin holes. thats where its handy to have an air nozzle and compressor, u get to clean up the surface that u r working on to look for pinholes within the bondo… most likely there will be some so u can use the filler putty stuff or just do another layer of bondo but making sure u get it into the holes. also try and find urself a true straight edge, that’ll help in seeing and feeling for body for waves and for high or low spots. ur hand is good gauge for waves and low spots too especially on curved areas, but the straight edge is handy if u use it horizontally. i could kinda go on for a while on explaining this stuff, but well i’m sure u have a pretty good idea of what i’m saying.
invest in that $5 3M sanding block, don’t use anything else for sanding unless u got and in line or a DA sander (da=dual action). grinders are usually only used to remove whatever to get it down to the metal. if u r gonna be grinding again tho, make sure u do not put much pressure on it, and make sure u keep it moving, do not let the surface get hot, cuz that’ll cause the body/metal to shrink or whatever, which will make a high spot usually. then u’ll have to get a body hammer (pecking hammer) and a dolly to bring the high spot down.
summing it all up… get some real good advice and tip on how to do stuff like this… or take a class… or take it to a shop. cuz if u do decide to grind it all down again with a grinder… u’ll most likely get it to bare metal and prolly take a good amount of metal off too… which will thin ur already thin door even more. that can cause more low spots too.
$0.04