Boot Sub Install - Pics

INFORMATION G2IC Archives
1

Just some quick pics I discovered on my computer of my boot making process. It may help people if they wish to do something similar.
I had a few requirements when making this floor:

  1. It had to be simple and neat. I was sick of removing my sub and amp to fit my bike in the boot every weekend, so I had removed the sub altogether. In redoing the book I just wanted some bass to compliment the rest of the stereo, not hectic neon-flashing bass.

  2. No permanent modifications were to be made to the car. No carpet cut, no holes drilled, no panels damaged. The car is still in very good condition, so I didn’t want to compromise that at all. Pieces are locked in like a puzzle. They do not budge unless you know in which order to remove things. Everything I have done is also reversible.

  3. The spare was to be retained. The teg is a daily driver workhorse, and does some long distance driving too, so it needed to be practical and safe. The space saver spare is in there now but the full size spare MAY fit in there. I am yet to try.

Ok, pics…

  1. Measuring up. I lined the boot floor with masking tape and foil, and then applied the fiberglass and resin. I think I laid two solid layers before removing it.

  2. Mold removed. More layers added. I don’t remember how many, probably not enough though.

  3. Baffle cut and sub mounted to check clearance. It’s a tight fit but I was happy to sacrifice quality for a bit more boot space. (It’s not the greatest sub anyway so I don’t mind).

  4. Front bits cut out and bonded to seal box. Fibreglass outside and inside of the box. Resin was then poured around in the box to make sure of no holes. I mucked around with sound deadener inside the box and then stuffed it with Dacron. Sound deadener sheets were also put underneath the sub box. This minimized vibration greatly.

  5. Top floor cover made. This was the hardest piece for me to make cause I’m not that great with the cutting. Was tricky to get the sub cutout spot on.

  6. Other pieces cut and fitted. Amp sits upside down bottom left. No overheating problems yet.

  7. Grille shape finalized and the bit the grille fits into was shaped. Nice smooth curves. I tried many different shapes and was happiest with this.

  8. Almost done. I need to still decide on what material I am going to fill the sub area with. I was thinking of finding some stock material off the seats of something to integrate the install a bit better.

This weekend if I have time I will remove everything and take better pics of the hidden stuff. I’ve been meaning to clean up stuff under there. I have also begun redoing the rear panels so that the insides of the amp are visible, and making one panel to go over the spare and rhs bit.

This could have been done differently, and most assuredly better, but I’m pretty happy with how it has turned out. Materials would have cost me $100-$150 at the most. Time is the hardest thing to find, as I have very little of it. Still, was good fun and suits my needs perfectly.

Newly resprayed bumper too!!! I need to get better pics!

UPDATED FLOOR: NEW BOX/SUB/FLOOR

2

Very nice job.
I never really thought of using that lil’ space like that for a custom sub box.

It looks like it raised up the tire compartment just a lil’ bit.
I see why you said that you could probaly fit a full size tire in there now.

I wish I could pull off a RHD Automatic.

Also you should get this added into the Teg tips.

3

Love it

Awesome job. I love the fact that you came up with a solution which fits perfectly, does the job well and doesn’t compromise the original setup. And also look sweet. I wish I could do that tho I’m no good at fiberglass…

Car looks great!

4

You fiberglass guys are awesome :up:

archivethis

5

That is some nice work

6

:up: beautiful work, bumper looks like its wet its so clean:up:

7

I usually hate sub installs in cars, but this one is fantastic. Good job not cannibalizing your car and still having usable space in the hatch.

8

great job come do mine lol

9

nice job. really well done. Get a better sub.

10

looks good, nice and clean :rockon:

11

nice job dude but why explode sub?

12

so the BASS can exploooodeeee !! <— what a shit joke

anyway freakin fantastic job ! didnt realise how much work went into it !
i know who to call when i need to do something with my boot :hugs:

13

are those the stock bumper lights on your car? if so, i had a set of ukdm lights and they looked awesome!

14

Redteg: great job but does it sound clean and thump pretty good?

15

aww when i saw this post i was hoping for pics of a massive box filling the trunk with a meaty DD 9515 sub :shrug:

does look very tidy though, and i guess most people need the trunk space…:up:

16

Thanks guys, I am pretty proud of it. Its proof that anyone can do this as long as they give it a go. I do try to integrate things, I don’t like mods that seem out of place and just chucked on the car.

Bumper lights are stock, with the amber cubes removed. I need to find 2 new lenses if anyone knows where I can find them. I can only get JDM orange over here. :slight_smile:

It’s an Xplod because it was the cheapest sub I had laying around, hehe. Getting the sub cutout perfectly round (with the help of body filler) and the carpet to mold nicely in the grille “depression” area meant alot of gluing and cutting, and I didn’t want to destroy a better sub. The Sony’s cone has a few transparent areas because of spilt glue. :stare:

Output is pretty good, it has a fair bit of power behind it that helps, sound is similar to the same sub in a properly sized wedge style box. It lacks clarity when compared to my JL and sheer deep bass when compared to my Rockford though. The sub is run so quietly that it you only realise it is on after it is turned off completely and there’s ‘something’ missing. I’m getting older and I’ve become a fan of Chesky recordings and jazzy stuff, so I don’t need doof doof. Although it can thump but gets ragged at higher outputs. I still do need to adjust the amp’s gain and crossover levels.

It was sized to fit the available space, and as such i would say the box is way too small. I could have curved the panels closest to the spare, but I couldn’t be bothered, hehe.

Without sound deadening it rattled the car like crazy, so much so that I didn’t bother continuing the project after the box was made. Trying the deadener was a good move. I don’t know if I did a good thing by spraying it inside of the box as well, my logic was that more weight was better for it.

It took me aaaages to do, pretty much because I have been extremely busy with work this past year. I would say it took up most of my spare time for around 4 solid weeks or so, a couple of hours here and there. I started last December and finished it in June this year. Much of it was trial and error though, and figuring out how to solve some problems.

That’s why I posted it up. If anyone is thinking of doing this, go ahead and ask questions. I may not have all the answers, or all the best answers, but it may give you another option or idea.

17

Very nice and CLEAN job for a CLEAN Teg…Keep up the great work…

18

Very nice and clean. Something I’ve been thinking about doing as well, getting rid of the huge box and putting something smaller in so I can use my trunk better. With the seats down, the DA can amazingly hold a lot of stuff in the hatch.

Good job. mad props to you.