hey has anyone done ss lines from the rear to the front jus wondering how the outcome was do the brakes feel better worse?
[QUOTE=abs-lsd;2139371]lol the negative comments in this thread are funny…
I did this with my integra over the winter. No its not a show car…i use it for track days. I had to remove the abs system because it was in the way of the engine and i didnt want to relocate the entire system. Also im not using an oem prop valve im using an adjustable wilwood. The front line are getting though to the wheelwell using the stock holes…there must be a cleaner looking way but i dont care (nothing special its not a showcar).
[/QUOTE]
so the prop valve is mounted inside the car somewhere you can reach? can i see pics of how you did that? im curious as to where that wold go without being in the way.
or is it the one with the cable and remote knob?
Its a click type, mounted right next to the shifter
Nice setup. I’ve always wanted an adjustable prop valve like that.
here’s another diagram, from thedb63’s build thread:
[QUOTE=abs-lsd;2140092]Its a click type, mounted right next to the shifter
[/QUOTE]
interesting… i like it
[QUOTE=BobLobLaw;2140439]Nice setup. I’ve always wanted an adjustable prop valve like that.
here’s another diagram, from thedb63’s build thread:[/QUOTE]
those are armynavy fittings just so u guys know you have to get a 37 degree flaring tool to make those work…
any body else?
update on my brake lines
here are some pics:
drivers side
^^hows the wheel/tire clearance?
that was the third try/brake line and there is no issues whatsover… i even jacked the tire up as high as it could go and turned the wheel all the way and no problems…so thats the spot i think everybody has been looking for for running the bulkheads good luck guys…
after finishing my brake lines i read somewhere that you shouldnt use aluminum fittings for your brakes so i called summit and they said the same thing and i asked them why they didnt tell me that when i was buying them for my brakes…they are now taking all my bulkheadfittings, -3 nuts, and tubesleeves all back and giving me steel fittings but i have to pay the difference because the steel ones are more expensive… so just a fyi for people that are going to go this route
latest update:
just got my steel fittings in…while i was waiting for them i wire wheeled and buffed my steel lines and clearcoated them…my bulkhead fittings are on back order untill next week so i dont have them hence the reason they are not in the firewall in the picture…but here ya go
Im about to start this on my Gs right now i got the abs box removed and the booster and master cyinder off and in the trash since they were shot anyway. How are you running a oem MC without the booster?
Also what mods were needed to run the Wilwood prop valve? since i removed the ABS i need to put a new prop valve and i was looking at that same prop valve you have but the wilwood prop and MC confuse me since the MC is single port… help please. Thanks guys
[QUOTE=Wishihadahonda;2153731]Im about to start this on my Gs right now i got the abs box removed and the booster and master cyinder off and in the trash since they were shot anyway. How are you running a oem MC without the booster?
Also what mods were needed to run the Wilwood prop valve? since i removed the ABS i need to put a new prop valve and i was looking at that same prop valve you have but the wilwood prop and MC confuse me since the MC is single port… help please. Thanks guys[/QUOTE]
dont throw the booster out!!! if you want to use the oem master cylinder you have to modify the booster to make a bracket out of it…even if the booster was bad you can still use it because you wont be using 90% of the guts…and for a prop valve make sure you get the 4040 prop valve…go to a junk yard or post a wtb thread they are not expensive…ebay would have some as well…this picture will take care of you as well
i already saved that pic to my comp lol and i havent trashed the booster yet. what do i have to do to it i dont want to see the big black thing at all??? I would like to run the wilwood MC but im not sure how to do it lol Im barely learning this tucking thing ive never focused on cosmetics at all just on speed and as for brakes i was always upgrading brakes with oem stuff never this extensive.
thedb63 - I really like the way you ran the lines from the mc. Is that a 1inch from an abs car? If so, mind sharing the part # for the banjo fittings and bolts used?
I have to reroute my lines…i cant gravity bleed the brakes because part of the hardline is routed above the mc. No big deal but its not the right way to do it…
[QUOTE=abs-lsd;2153890]thedb63 - I really like the way you ran the lines from the mc. Is that a 1inch from an abs car? If so, mind sharing the part # for the banjo fittings and bolts used?
I have to reroute my lines…i cant gravity bleed the brakes because part of the hardline is routed above the mc. No big deal but its not the right way to do it…[/QUOTE]
im using the stock master cylinder that comes on our cars 15/16 maybe? i heard somewhere if you use a bigger one the heeltoeing will make the brakes “too good” if you know what im saying and your going to want some play with your brakes when racing… you dont necessarily want them to stop on a dime if you know what im saying… i plan to auto cross this car so its not going to be a trailer whore…i actually have been doing a lot of reading so its not like im just saying it just to be saying it…honda tech brake line tuck thread from they guy weakeg is his screen name has made an amazing thread about doing brake line tucks… also chasebay or his other screen name (EF8KID) is in there giving his info out as well…lots of pics and some are really good and some are so…so… take a look you wont be dissapointed…
here are my fitting part numbers from summitracing.com
2 10mm banjo bolts fine… dont have an exact part #
RUS-640471 is the straight verticle one
RUS-640511 this one is a 35degree one ,they are both about $8 a piece from summitracing.com
make sure to buy -3an steel fittings too i had to learn the hard way i was all done with my lines then had to cut them all off and redo them again…i guess the aluminum ones dont have very good fatigue strength…
[QUOTE=thedb63;2153936]im using the stock master cylinder that comes on our cars 15/16 maybe? i heard somewhere if you use a bigger one the heeltoeing will make the brakes “too good” if you know what im saying and your going to want some play with your brakes when racing… you dont necessarily want them to stop on a dime if you know what im saying… i plan to auto cross this car so its not going to be a trailer whore…i actually have been doing a lot of reading so its not like im just saying it just to be saying it…honda tech brake line tuck thread from they guy weakeg is his screen name has made an amazing thread about doing brake line tucks… also chasebay or his other screen name (EF8KID) is in there giving his info out as well…lots of pics and some are really good and some are so…so… take a look you wont be dissapointed…
here are my fitting part numbers from summitracing.com
2 10mm banjo bolts fine… dont have an exact part #
RUS-640471 is the straight verticle one
RUS-640511 this one is a 35degree one ,they are both about $8 a piece from summitracing.com
make sure to buy -3an steel fittings too i had to learn the hard way i was all done with my lines then had to cut them all off and redo them again…i guess the aluminum ones dont have very good fatigue strength…[/QUOTE]
Cool man thanks.
I had a look at that thread when i was planning my tuck. There was some good advice in there. Only problem is i didnt think of the aluminum/steel thing and now all my fittings are aluminum. I guess il keep an eye on them this season and redo everything next winter. About the mc size - Ive never heard of the issue but its good to know. Im assuming thats only a problem if youre running the stock calipers? I heard if you go with an oem uprgade or a bbk the 1 inch is the only one to use.
that makes sense with the bigger calipers
anybody else got anything to share? i want some more pictures!!!