It might be a long way off but il have a lot of pics coming when I redo the lines this winter.
I put up some pics before but il take more detailed ones including the interior before taking it all apart. Plus the new setup il be doing of course.
I was also thinking of making my own stainless mesh lines to the calipers. Anyone done this before? Good/bad idea?
I’ve read the whole thing but there’s one thing i don’t understand… What’s a prop valve? and what does it do and how does it do it?
I lifted this off how stuff works
Proportioning Valve
The proportioning valve reduces the pressure to the rear brakes. Regardless of what type of brakes a car has, the rear brakes require less force than the front brakes.
The amount of brake force that can be applied to a wheel without locking it depends on the amount of weight on the wheel. More weight means more brake force can be applied. If you have ever slammed on your brakes, you know that an abrupt stop makes your car lean forward. The front gets lower and the back gets higher. This is because a lot of weight is transferred to the front of the car when you stop. Also, most cars have more weight over the front wheels to start with because that is where the engine is located.
If equal braking force were applied at all four wheels during a stop, the rear wheels would lock up before the front wheels. The proportioning valve only lets a certain portion of the pressure through to the rear wheels so that the front wheels apply more braking force. If the proportioning valve were set to 70 percent and the brake pressure were 1,000 pounds per square inch (psi) for the front brakes, the rear brakes would get 700 psi.
And to read more heres an article from the stoptech website tech section
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_proportioning_valves.shtml
for some of you who asked about my homemade brake booster delete, my set up is awsome just like any brake booster delete kit, its a tad bit harder to push down but i got used to it in a day…love it!!! you dont have to pay $200 to have this just a grinder and grinding wheels…here are some pics
i am also fabing these up for people if they dont want do it themselves for $50 and your brake booster so email me for more details at thedb63@aol.com
How is the firewall flex and mounting points for the mc? Same? Worse? Im just wondering how solid it is because the booster uses 4 bolts to attach to the firewall and the mc only 2.
And that is one seriously clean engine bay!
[QUOTE=abs-lsd;2166451]How is the firewall flex and mounting points for the mc? Same? Worse? Im just wondering how solid it is because the booster uses 4 bolts to attach to the firewall and the mc only 2.
And that is one seriously clean engine bay![/QUOTE]
thank you sir!!! wish it was a k swap like yours tho…
the brake booster plate still uses 4 holes and 4 bolts just two of them are for the master cylinder… if you look closely at the brake booster plate it has two round things on the plate… those are the other bolts that are still attatched to the booster plate…i honestly love this setup… and like all those people that say to take the brake booster hose off and thats what it feels like? uuummm thats is totally not true, it feels 1000 times different just so you know… so dont go by that…
[QUOTE=thedb63;2166552]thank you sir!!! wish it was a k swap like yours tho…
the brake booster plate still uses 4 holes and 4 bolts just two of them are for the master cylinder… if you look closely at the brake booster plate it has two round things on the plate… those are the other bolts that are still attatched to the booster plate…i honestly love this setup… and like all those people that say to take the brake booster hose off and thats what it feels like? uuummm thats is totally not true, it feels 1000 times different just so you know… so dont go by that…[/QUOTE]
I was a little confused but I had a look through your build and saw how you did it. Never took a booster apart so I had no idea that was possible. Beats the hell out of paying 2-300 bucks for a cnc bit of aluminium. I imagine the diff you’re explaining is comparable to the difference between a P/S system with the acc belt removed and an actual manual rack?
yeah pretty much…thanks for understanding
yes, i too have a setup just like thedb63 and it feels nothing like a non-vacuum ABS setup, the pedal effort is linear, the feedback through the pedal is amazing, and there is now enough room back behind the motor that i could probably smuggle a few mexicans comfortably across the borbder
yes!!!:lol:
some one else is buying another brake booster delete from me… this will be the 4th one i have made… some one did one because he said that he could put a super charger in a teg now because the master cylinder was the only thing in his way…so far so good…think im going to start a thread now!!!
yeah, i noticed this too. a supercharged b-series would slide right in no problem.
also, a really elaborate turbo k-series setup could work too.
Looking good, I hope to be doing this also. Just trying to figure out how hard it will be with the engine in. :argh: Thanks for the degrees on the banjos, I was trying to figure out what I needed to get them to look like that.
[QUOTE=Ominous G2;2167533]Looking good, I hope to be doing this also. Just trying to figure out how hard it will be with the engine in. :argh: Thanks for the degrees on the banjos, I was trying to figure out what I needed to get them to look like that.[/QUOTE] you might want to take the intake manifold off for more room…but i have collected all the parts that you will need to not includeing the 37 degree flaring too that you should not be skimpy on buying…(rigid tool) is the one i got and love it!!! i am doing a brake line tuck in a crx tomarrow with a kswap so i will take some pictures and let you know how it goes
this is all from summit racing:
everything you need… cost of parts: $230 thats with shipping
about 20 feet of 3/16 brake line
Fittings, Bulkhead Nut, -3 AN, Steel, Zinc Plated, Pair
Part Number: EAR-502403ERL qty (1)
Fitting, Tube Nut, -3 AN, Steel, Zinc Plated, Pair
Part Number: EAR-561803ERL qty (11)
Fitting, Tube Sleeve, -3 AN, Steel, Zinc Plated, Pair
Part Number: EAR-561903ERL qty (11)
Fittings, Brake, Male -3 AN to Male 10mm x 1.0 Thread, Steel, Zinc Plated, Pair
Part Number: EAR-592032ERL qty (5)
Fitting, Adapter, Banjo Bolt with Crush Washer, 10mm x 1.0 Single, Steel, Zinc Plated, Each
Part Number: EAR-997517ERL qty (2)
Fitting, Coupler, Straight, -3 AN Male to -3 AN Male, Steel, Zinc Plated, Each
Part Number: FRA-581503 qty (2)
Fitting, Straight, Bulkhead Union, -3 AN, Steel, Zinc Plated, Each
Part Number: FRA-583203 qty (2)
Fitting, Brake Adapter, -3 AN to Straight 10mm Banjo, Steel, Endura, Each
Part Number: RUS-640471 qty (1)
Fittings, Brake Adapter, Steel, Nickel Plated, -3 AN to 35 Degree 10mm Banjo, Each
Part Number: RUS-640511 qty (1)
i guess im not doing the crx today because he doesnt have all the parts that i told him to get
x2 on that man, all that room in there is making me jealous. I can’t imagine how easy it is to work on that car compared to my knuckle scraping, wrist gouging, pain inflicting stock GS engine bay. I changed my alternator the other day and had to take half the freakin car apart.
Nice list, did you use a single or double flare?
Did just get a box of goodies today, my bulkheads were out of stock until Sept. 10th.
should of asked for the fragola bulkheads they are the same thing and they have them in stock…at summit anyway when i ordered the earls ones they kept pushing the date back…so i cancled the earls ones and got the fragola ones the next day…lol they are the same thing for real
I did get the Fragolas, what size hole do you drill for them?
i used a unibit until they fit and with -an fitting your only supposed to single flair them and its legal to use with the single flair but it has to be a 37degree flairing tool because of the angle the -an fittings are made