Ok this all started this summer when I was at my dads in kentucky my brakes started causing my wheel to shake when I was hitting them so I figured they were warped so I took it down to midas to get em resurfaced or replaced. Well they replaced em but didn’t reaplace the pads wich I later found out was bad. When I returned home they were shaking again, so I took it to a local midas and told em what was up and they did something that they didn’t tell me what but it stopped shaking. Well again now its sorta shacking when I brake from higher speeds and I dunno if the rotor is warped again or what, and I dunno if I hsoudl try goin to midas again and having them fix it or get some good after market rotors and pads or I should take it to a dealer and have em over charge me for OEMs wich are better so give me some imput if you can on why this is hapenin again only 3 months after I fixed it and wat should I do.
I’m sure it’s not what you want to hear, but you really should get the rotors resurfaced and put new pads on. Pads can really get messed up, grooved, or wear wrong because of bad rotors. This will most definitely fix it, unless of course you have a sticking caliper, but unfortunately it is the most expensive. HTH
How much dose resurfacing cost and is it worth it to go wit drilled or slotted rotors instead wat pads should i get regular ones they offer or some after market ones
Here’s what I’d reccommend. Go to collettimotorsports.com. They sell a set of 4 Brembo rotors for $144. No slots, no holes, no need. Then check out onecryo.com. They cryogenically treat all kindsa car parts to make them more stable and heat resistant. $25 per rotor. Finally, my buddy Nick (who runs import-specialists.com) will get you Hawk HPS front pads, AEM rear pads, and Goodridge stainless lines for $189. There you go, really nice pads and rotors that won’t warp. Plus nicer pedal feel courtesy of the stainless lines. I’m doing this exact setup except with Hawk HP+ pads in front. They have a little less initial bite on the street than the HPS but in AutoX situations they have a higher heat capacity. 10 bucks more. But if you’re just driving on the street go with the HPS. You won’t be dissappointed.
Good call Mr. FatBooty, but that’s overkill.
A) That’s not a deal on Brembo rotors. Summit sells them for $33 apiece.
B) You could have Powerslots for the price of rotors and heat treating. i have these rotors in the front, and I am very impressed.
C) I say its overkill because it’s unsafe on the street. Locks up the brakes too easily, which leaves you depending on your tires to stop you. Not a safe bet
I do like the deal on the pads/ lines, but if you (RedRSTeg) are just looking for a little better than stock braking, resurface your rotors - $20 each at NAPA, and get some good pads such as Hawk. I have no personal experience with these, but I’ve heard all good.
I appologize for shooting a hole in your story Booty (if I may call you that).
Once a bad rotor, always a bad rotor. Throw the old ones away.
If you don’t want them to warp again, I recommend some powerstop drilled rotors and metalmaster pads… I beat mine to hell and no more warpage!!!
A) That price from Colletti is shipped.
B) Slotted rotors in the stock size are unnecessary unless you’re running Kevlar pads which tend to have lots of outgassing, especially once you get up higher in the temp range. The slots eat up swept area.
C) How would that lock up the brakes prematurely? Neither cryogenically treated nor slotted rotors increase the friction coefficient of the braking system. Hawk HPS pads are street pads. Hawk HP+ pads are a semi-track pad that is still streetable. The hydraulic system is only minorly upgraded with stainless lines. Regardless, lockup can be prevented with proper technique seeing as there is enough pedal free play with the stock hydraulic system or with the stainless lines. Explain.
Overkill is a Wilwood 12.1" 4-piston kit in the front and a Fastbrakes 11.4" stock-caliper kit in the rear with Porterfield R4S pads.