Im not sure what im gonna finalize but more or less i want a all motor due to the reliability.
Im shoot for close to 200 whp so 185 to 195 to 200 whp
This is what i have so far
b17a1 motor
ys1 short geared lsd tranny
stage 4 clutchmasters clutch
10 lbs lightended flywheel
prelude 345cc injectors (greentops)
str fuel rail
Brian crower stage 2 cams
short shifter
2 piece cold air intake with k and N filter and velocity stack.
greddy 2 piece 4.2.1 header.
full exhaust 2.5 inches to a magnaflow muffler hi flow cat .
Now I dont have the cams installed, flywheel, fuel rails or injectors. Everything else is installed and i have drove like 4000 kms on them.
Now before i put cams in, do i need to mill my head and how much
headgasket i got no idea wat brand to buy, retainers and valve springs im going to need aftermarket. What’s a good name to run with, brian crower? or supertech. port and polish head? what kind of valves can i run with
also pistons should i bore my block and what pistons can i run. I have no idea on how to build a motor im just wondering what parts to start collecting for my motor build. ANy help guys would be awsome. thanks alot.
this is going to be a daily driver for this year, but next its just gonna be a spring summer car so keep that in mind i want a relatively quick car but streetable.
hey good luck i actually just today decided to do the same thing. I was selling it here but no buyers so imma build not as a daily driver but a full race car.:manual:
Sell the injectors and fuel rail,neither are neccesary in your build.
I suggest you do a little more research before you put this together.
Your going to need bottom end work to even approach 200whp. You will be dissapointed in the results from this build if it contiunes exactly as planned.
You might want to readjust your goal to around 160whp.
wow really? with brian crower stage 2 cams? i mean if i totally build this. and run those cams i can not see 160 whp iuno if im wrong. but everyone tells me these cams are serious power and agressive. i payed 650 for them. But ill research i want more then 160 whp.
Not very aggresive by any means. but do have awesome potentiol in your engine.
The main reason I say like 160whp is because you have to remeber that cams are only as good as the engine that posseses them.
Id personally say that if you went a few extra steps. changed and added a few things to your build you could see 180whp using those.
Id suggest.
stock injectors and fuel rail, save your money here as they will be sufficient.
P30 o/s pistons for a compression bump
omni power flat faced valves-good flow gains and higher compression.
Be sure to mod your header collector to 2.5" unless it is already.
A maxbore 64mm tb and port match your intake manifold could’nt hurt either.
use your brian crower stage 2’s in that setup, combined with a good tune using crome,hondata etc, anything but an afc or piggyback crap. Then you could very well see your goals become achievable.
thanks grand alot for detaling me in this info… I have a 1990 sir distributor. Now can i get a conversion harness to switch to OBd 1 so i can tune my car better and easier. Cuz my car is a 1990 and i have a 1992 b17a1 motor installed.
A 190whp B17 is going to cost you dearly. You can use the prelude injectors and the fuel rail unless you need the money.
You’ll need a ITR or AEBS intake manifold, port matched.
Hondata IM gasket.
Bored stock T/B.
.40 over bore.
Pistons to fill that bore.
You’ll need 11.4 compression or higher.(this is where your injectors will come in handy)
You’ll need a set of cam gears to shift the power band up 500 rpms and raise the revlimit up 500 rpms.
Ballance the rods,pistons,flywheel,and crank pully.
Last but not least… is a head job…err I mean… a port job for your head.
Goodluck.
-ronie
I guess I’ll come out of the woodworks and help to.
The only thing I havent seen others mention yet is to get rid of the 4-2-1 header design. You need a 4-1 design to maximize the vtec+ range of the powerband. Also higher compression pistons are a MUST! Honda really fucked up on the B17s compression stock IMO, a bit above the LS yet still under 10:1.
Also my personal thoughts are to forget about 200whp…i think its possible…and can be done on a baller status income, but were talking every part being on par with the carbon AIR manifold for example. Anyway if you get into the 180s with that block good damn job…but as you make more power you will sacrifice midrange, its just gonna be a real peaky powerband with nothing down low anymore. If you are dead set on 200whp start with a 1.8 atleast.
ok im not too experinced with this area quite yet but i kno a REALLY GOOD read is in the teg tips. it will explain almost everything you need to kno about a rebuild in a honda motor.
think high compression and huge cams for 185-200whp. also a nicer header wouldnt hurt, atleast go with the one piece greddy header. stage 4 clutch is overkill, go with a full face clutch and a lighter flywheel. dont get a cheap short shifter either, they are garbage. it might be cheaper to just buy an exhaust over piecing one like you are talking about together.
I’m sure that the Greddy 4-2-1 header is a restriction but I made 179-182 whp on a Mustang Dyno with very minimal tuning(Hondata s200). And later that day, made 189 whp with the same Greddy header. Had this been tuned on a Dynojet, the whp readings would have been close to 200hp.
It cost me dearly! but I’ll tell you this and some one stated the same thing in this thread before. 180whp in a DA even in heavy ass my db2… is one fun car to drive.
-ronie
thanks for all the comments guys. keep them coming.??
anyone have experience with different brand of pistons? or valves? im going to start collecting more parts but need to find whats good to buy since i dont know shit!
lol, ya i guess eh i really dont have time to go and read and research all about the motors and shit. I work like stupid hours im a fire sprinkler installer so im workin all the time and when im not im with the wife.
for the person that st8ed Brian Crower cams are not big, i’d like to know what is considered a big cam? cuz, i have BC 2, and they have 12mm lift on both the IN & Ex. and, most manufacturers list advertised specs without including the rocker ratio. point being, there are many cams with advertised specs that read higher (lift & duration) than others, for the simple fact that Brian Crower is one of the few companies that includes rocker ratio when calculating and advertising specs. what i’m trying to say is, most people don’t know shit about cams specs or…cams in general. extra big cams in most cases, make less power on most set ups. as for the build, there was a dude on HT (BPi) that made 180whp on a bone stock b17 shortblock with Buddy Club 3+ cams. no big at all, cam lovers. in any case, a good set up will net very respectable numbers. if your c.r. is in the 10.5-11.0/1, edelbrock proflow w/2.5" collector mod, no cat, 2.25-2.5" mandrel cat back, Ported P30 IM, IM heatshield barrier, 3" cai/sri, B Crower 2’s, a few tricks and a good tune will net you 175-190whp. g/l