Hey guys… I need your advice with this one. Now I know our cars do burn a bit of oil when the km/mileage gets up there…as do most honda engines (or so I’m told) but mine is excessive… (I have 203000km)
It really only happens when I drop a gear and punch it, or if I let the car idle in one spot for any longer than like 5 min, then drive away. Now I’m getting the lovely blue/black cloud sometimes when I take off from a stop light. This isn’t cool!! I need suggestions as for what this might be! I really, REALLY don’t want to have to take it to a mechanic just yet… cause I know I’ll get raped with labour costs, just for them to poke around. The wierd thing is, my car runs great! perfect idle, dead quiet… it’s just it burns oil! I end up having to ad at least close to 3 liters of oil inbetween oil changes.
yeah, i’ve noticed that when i’m going down I-80, about 6% grade, i can let the car coast in 4th (auto) and it will sit at about 75mph, but when the road starts to flatten and the car slows, i give it gas to get back to speed, a small puff of blue smoke comes out, it only seems to do it at that time… is it because the engine is revving at 4500 and i’m not giving any gas?? should i drop it into nuetral for the hill and pull off and get it into drive?? it has just over 100000 miles, and i don’t want to wear the rings out anymore…i usually drive the car easily. do rings get progressively worse with after they have worn a bit?? i am using 5w-30 castrol…also, do oils that say “higher mileage vehicles”, does that crap really help seal/reseal. i know i can’t take care of the problem without investing a lot of money, but i would like to keep the problem to a minimum. thanks for any advice
Originally posted by texnteg yeah, i’ve noticed that when i’m going down I-80, about 6% grade, i can let the car coast in 4th (auto) and it will sit at about 75mph, but when the road starts to flatten and the car slows, i give it gas to get back to speed, a small puff of blue smoke comes out, it only seems to do it at that time… is it because the engine is revving at 4500 and i’m not giving any gas?? should i drop it into nuetral for the hill and pull off and get it into drive?? it has just over 100000 miles, and i don’t want to wear the rings out anymore…i usually drive the car easily. do rings get progressively worse with after they have worn a bit?? i am using 5w-30 castrol…also, do oils that say “higher mileage vehicles”, does that crap really help seal/reseal. i know i can’t take care of the problem without investing a lot of money, but i would like to keep the problem to a minimum. thanks for any advice
Most likely you’re getting the same problem as Lowered_Klass, but haven’t noticed that you’re also burning oil when launching from a stand still.
To both you and Lowered_Klass -> Follow some of the suggestions here…keep track of makeup oil added. When using a thicker oil, 5W30 and 10W30 ARE THE SAME thickness during normal engine running temperature. So, if you want to try something thicker, try 5W40, 5W50, 10W40, 15W40, or 15W50. Do be careful when using the 15W oil during winter conditions.
Some more suggestions would be to do a compression and leak-down test. These tests should give you an idea of what needs to be repaired. Also, an oil analysis should give clues as to which internal parts are wearing abnormally.
thanks oz. when i had my radiator replaced about 2 weeks ago, honda dealership said they did a leakdown test and everything was ok…is this the same type of leakdown test or is there a seperate one for oil?? also, can the pcv valve be a problem?? i can’t imagine the rings are worn out already, when i first started driving i was a little rough, but not too bad, maybe red-line once a week… my dad was always good with it too… i’ll try the oil next time.
Originally posted by texnteg thanks oz. when i had my radiator replaced about 2 weeks ago, honda dealership said they did a leakdown test and everything was ok…is this the same type of leakdown test or is there a seperate one for oil?? also, can the pcv valve be a problem?? i can’t imagine the rings are worn out already, when i first started driving i was a little rough, but not too bad, maybe red-line once a week… my dad was always good with it too… i’ll try the oil next time.
Are you sure it’s a leakdown test? Everybody confuses leakdown tests with compression tests. I would recommend doing a compression test first (a very easy Do-It-Yourself procedure). If, during the compression test, you run into some abnormalities, do a wet test. A wet test is the same as a compression test, except that you add 1 (teaspoon or tablespoon, I can’t remember) of oil in the cylinder and then test the cylinder for compression. I would then verify that information by having a leakdown test done (unless you have the equipment…very expensive).
A Leakdown test requires compressed air be forced in the cylinder (with both intake and exhaust valves closed), and then listening for air escaping and monitoring an air gauge for loss of pressure. If you open the oil cap and hear howling noises, then the air is escaping through the piston rings and down to the crank case. If you hear it or feel puffs out the tailpipe, then that means it’s your exhaust valve (possibly valve guides). If you hear howling from the intake manifold or airbox cleaner, then it’s your intake valve (possible valve guides).
This procedure should only take around 1 hour. The mechanic must turn the engine at TDC for the cylinder in question. If your Acura dealer did not do this, then chances are, he/she only did a regular compression test.
Other possible causes could be a blown head gasket. An oil analysis should verify this by looking for anti-freeze contaminating the oil. Of course, if you have a blown head gasket, chances are you should see oil leaks around the engine block.
i definitely know its not a blown head gasket, i’ve experienced those in rental fords!!! but, ford knew the problem there. the leakdown test you are talking about is what the honda dealership performed to make sure nothing cracked when my car’s temp almost overheated… it is something they do when any radiator is replaced for cracks or the like. i will try the compression test. i had my dad follow me for a bit on the streets and then the highway and he said he didn’t see anything, maybe it was my imagination, don’t know. i ask again about the possiblity of the pcv valve??
Originally posted by texnteg i ask again about the possiblity of the pcv valve??
Sorry, I forgot to answer this question. Yes, your pcv valve may be malfunctioning as well. It’s an easy replacement, just locate it and replace. For checking it, remove it from the valve cover, and shake it. You should hear rattling as you shake it. If not, the PCV is clogged. Another test is to run the engine and cover the open-end of the PCV and feel for vacuum suction. If not, then the PCV is clogged as well.
I don’t want to sound dumb or anything, but I have yet to have anyone tell me what the PCV valve does… can anyone explain this for me?? And where exactly is it located?? I know it’s around the intake manifold area(?)
Your PCV takes blowby gases from the engine and routes them back into the intake system. Sometimes, on a faulty PCV, it takes oil along with the blow by gases and puts them back into the intake, therefore burning oil.
It is located behind the #3 cylinder (2nd one away from the intake system) right on the intake manfold. It is right behind the engine block.
Thanks for the explanation after I posted my last reply, I went and I had a peek, to see if I could find it, which I did! Real easy if your looking for it… so how often should this be changed… I now know how to tell if it NEEDS to be changed, but how often SHOULD it be changed?
Originally posted by Lowered_Klass Thanks for the explanation after I posted my last reply, I went and I had a peek, to see if I could find it, which I did! Real easy if your looking for it… so how often should this be changed… I now know how to tell if it NEEDS to be changed, but how often SHOULD it be changed?
I’d also like to know this as well.
My car burns about a quart in 6 weeks. Not toooo much considering I have 286,000 KM on my car, but stil enough to be annoying. I replaced the PCV valve about 2 years ago… should I try replacing it again, seeing as it’s only like $4?
I tried some of Castrols new High Milage oil, no luck, still burns oil if not faster. I have been doing alot of driving, but every once in a while I check my oil and it is low. I have never used Honda oil, but considering using that. I think my car is doing this to my oil: :vomit: I hate this. A long time ago something hit my oil pan and put a fat dent in it. I can see oil all along the bottom of the pan, so I may be replacing the pan and a new gasket. Oil also seams to leak from the top of the motor which makes me think that there is leakage from the head gasket. This could be the only reason oil leaks form the top right? Since I have to take the stock header off to change pan, I think I might purchase a new header.
honda oil is castrol oil but with a little re-formulation. oil coming out the top may not be your head gasket, otherwise you would see steam and coolant coming out. plus the head gasket is not at the top of the motor, it is about halfway up(in that general area). it is most likely some of your seals, such as the cam seals and valve seals or even the valve cover gasket. changing the oil pan is pretty easy, as long as you can stand underneath the car and be able to unbolt the crossmember that runs beneath the motor. an idea, get an aftermarket pan or even a used one, don’t go to honda, it is not worth it. the aftermarket pan will be better for a lot less. good luck.
Originally posted by Lowered_Klass I now know how to tell if it NEEDS to be changed, but how often SHOULD it be changed?
If you buy the cheap ones from Autozone, Crappy Tire, etc. I would recommend changing them roughly every 20000-30000km. If you’re using Honda, I would extend the replacement change to 40000km. Do check them every 10000km as PCVs can fail without warning (and yet the engine might still be running fine).
I have never used Honda oil, but considering using that. I think my car is doing this to my oil: I hate this. A long time ago something hit my oil pan and put a fat dent in it. I can see oil all along the bottom of the pan, so I may be replacing the pan and a new gasket. Oil also seams to leak from the top of the motor which makes me think that there is leakage from the head gasket. This could be the only reason oil leaks form the top right? Since I have to take the stock header off to change pan, I think I might purchase a new header.
vtec-typer -> Have your oil leak checked by a TRUSTWORTHY mechanic. If you want to do it yourself, clean the engine and the oil leakage using some engine degreaser Run the engine for roughly 10min. and check for the location of the oil leak after. Sometimes this may not be necessary as some oil leaks can be noticeable.
after I posted my last reply, I went and I had a peek, to see if I could find it, which I did! Real easy if your looking for it… so how often should this be changed… I now know how to tell if it NEEDS to be changed, but how often SHOULD it be changed?
after I posted my last reply, I went and I had a peek, to see if I could find it, which I did! Real easy if your looking for it… so how often should this be changed… I now know how to tell if it NEEDS to be changed, but how often SHOULD it be changed? 