what about retainers-- what exactly is their purpose…thanks for the tutorial dan- also, can you explain the whole duruation thing through just by looking at them? sorry that wasn’t english. thanks man-=seeya.
I’m not an expert on Crower VTEC cams, but I know their LS cams are real nice. I was running the 62403s on my old LS setup. Great cams.
Dan: Titanium retainers not only increase hp by reducing the weight on top of the valves (more efficient), but they are also a lot stronger leviating the chance of a retainer “popping off” under high spring pressures and high rpm conditions.
The cam lobes are tear dropped in shape. The round part (that is just slightly bigger than the diameter of the cam core is “zero” lift or the “flat” spot of the cam lobe. The tall end is maximum lift of the cam. Duration is how round the cam lobe is at during lift…or the length of time it keeps the valve open Duration is kind of hard to see in the pic above…but you can kind of see it here…
I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Actually most of the reason for ti retainers is to reduce forces on all valvetrain and do reduce the chances retainer failure which in turn could cause you to drop a valve and ruin your sleeve, block and head. As for increase in hp I think that is 99.9% negligable. Retainers are a safety factor, and coil bind only occurs with incorrect springs.
Sorry, that did come out wrong. Please do not expect 3hp from titanium retainers. It will reduce the forces on the valve train though which will in turn aid in engine efficiency. That’s what I meant to say. And yes, coil bind happens when using too light of a spring with a high lift/duration cam.
so dan, no word on skunk2 ? ever experience anything of theres? hmm…
“ARCHIVETHIS”
also-- what if you got JUST the intake cam of the itr or ctr? i guess i dont understand the whole ‘intake cam is needed only’
i’ve heard alot of complaints on skunk2 … BUT supposedly the newer cams are adjusted and are supposed to be more reliable… but i think only time can tell… but I don’t know if i want to be the one to test it out on my car, yunno.
i think stage 1 should be fine… those are the most mild of the skunk2 VTEC cams, and they are supposed to be for “street” use and don’t even “require” and upgraded valvetrain (but of course it’s recommended)… all the other skunk2 level cams are their “race cams” and require upgraded valvetrain…