hey guys! ( i feel like this is a secret club ) well i dont have cams…yet, but you always hear different approaches when people are buying cams. alright lets look at the different types. ITR, CTR, skunk2, crower, Toda, JUN, – i think those are most of the ‘brand name’ and basically the first four and the ones im considering. My brother just swapped in some skunk2’s tonight and im about to go ride in it in 5 minutes ( yippiee!! ) but i like the fact that you DONT HAVE TO get retainers and rings for the skunk2, ctr, and itr. i also konw that the skunks produced like 10 more whp than the itr, so what about the ctr? you can find these used around 350-500 which is reasonable as well. any bad things known to happen with used cams? i really dont have the 1000+ to do the full thing, so maybe skunk2 (or itr/ctr) now and when i raise more, sell and get something a little more efficient.
as far as cam gears go and dyno tuning, can you basically acces your powerband, say if you want your powerband above 5, can you dial that in ( w/ dyno ?) or if you want it evenly spread out you can do the same? i think this is how it works, but someone jsut reassure me please.
also just wanting to know what some of you guys run in the 1/4, i know theres a lot involed but just curios to what g2gsr’s would run w/ some mods and cams. DAN you are excluded from this, for you make me giddy, but you are more than welcome to answer any of the other questions.
ps- i ‘raced’ a wrx, if you wanna call it that…wow. i felt stupid. :bored:
EDIT:: i just got back from the ride from the crx b16a w/ skunk2 cams. i can say it has a lot more torque now… it pulls to redline much faster and jsut feels overal better… hopefully i’ll talk him into getting some of the later stage cams and selling me his ( so i dont have to get internals ) they rawked, and i definately want some now (geez my car feels so slow now)…also we raced a newer year miata ( the hardtops that look like rx7s) it had no chance. ok thats all . byebye
just posting to subscribe and say I’m in the same boat as you dan. I was gonna get the skunk2’s until i heard some bad things about some of their products braking down.
nothing is going to “fit” nicer than a true “honda” part… so I decided i’m going to get the CTR cams most likely. but that’ll be after i finish getting all my “bolt ons”
i don’t need the “hardest pulling” cams personally. I just want some “more pull” than what i have but at the same time, something that’ll be cost effective and be safe of my engine in the long run.
also, anyone know the difference between the jdm itr and the usdm itr cams? i know that the itr and ctr exhaust cam are the same, but any further knowledge is well appreaciated…warning:: do not ride in a b16a crx w/ skunk2 cams…it makes your car feel VERY slow. :bored:
Originally posted by AMERIKAN AHEM Did I tell you that my CRVTEC with CTR cams had a 50 h.p. jump when VTEC engaged? Oh yeah, did I also mention that my CTR cams are for sale?
Yes i know, and it’s driving me crazy that i don’t got the money right now! :bawl: :argh:
redstar: i say get the CTR cams from John. either pay 800+ for some skunk2 cams that have mixed reviews on quality or pay half that for some CTR cams… my .02
woah… okay i’m DEFINATELY gonna stick w/ genuine Honda cams now. i don’t care if i lose some horses (not that i necessarily will), it’s not worth the risk. IMO
I am looking into getting ZEX cams a lot of people over at Honda-Tech say good things about them. If SuperHonda ever comes back up Tuan had the ZEX specs in the tech archive.
Originally posted by RedStarGsr
as far as cam gears go and dyno tuning, can you basically acces your powerband, say if you want your powerband above 5, can you dial that in ( w/ dyno ?) or if you want it evenly spread out you can do the same? i think this is how it works, but someone jsut reassure me please.
changing up when and where the power/powerband isn’t necessarily totally up to the cams themselves. when you dyno tune your car, it’s the accumulation of all the parts you have that are working in unison on your motor that will affect your power. you can’t just simply choose to “dial in” to have your power come in at say, 3k rpm, etc… but the only way to truly make the most usable power out of your car is through dyno tuning.
Hey Guys:
I don’t have access to a scanner, but when I do I will post my Dyno results…I’ll give you a hint though…get the CTR’s…best cam for the money and the power. Hopefylly get this thing scanned for you…Buy Johns from him, they’re probably hardly even used!!!
Sorry John, never gets old.
J.
Originally posted by 92GS-R hey Dan, what stage did your friend have in his car? stage II?
92 gsr-- my bro has the stage 1… basically the ones the’ve always had. I’ve also heard bad things about crower, but i also know they make some pretty wild cams… (404’s?) for some really good power. anyway, do you guys think skunks are reasonable. if you look at price, the skunk2’s are $660-715 i think the ctr intake / itr exhaust comes out to be $640 or so via www.inlinefour.com so… price isn’t too bad ( seing how my bro can get me cost since we works at a shop ) . I just feel way too slow…also- should i worry about going 4-1 w/ 2.5 collector now, or will it not vield any power now? should i wait till after cams---- i guess i just need to win the lottery…
JOHN- if you make a price maybe i will ‘come up’ with the money. lemme know – wouldn’t want anyone else to get em before me! :uhoh:
As most of you know, I have the Toda Spec B cams in my car. I love them to death. I recently installed some Toda Spec As in a friends car and they pulled very nicely too. I have installed CTRs with ITR valve springs in a B17A with slightly raised compression and it was quite impressive for stock Honda cams.
I know replacing cams is expensive, and the last thing you want to do is spend more money on valve train components…but there is a reason that valve train components are needed. With the increased lift and duration, as well as higher rpm power bands the valve components play a vital part in keeping the motor safe. Without them valve float and coil bind are a huge possibility. Even ITR cams need the ITR valve springs if you are going to rev the motor to 8500rpm. I wouldn’t run CTR or 01 ITR Spec cams on any motor without ITR valve springs.
So I know this isn’t exactly what you were looking for, but don’t underestimate the importance of a good valve train. Saving money now could cost you a lot more in the future.
Lesson over. Now these are cams that I recommend in order of preference…
Toda Spec B (needs Toda valve springs)
JUN Stage III (needs JUN valve sprigns)
Toda Spec A (needs ITR valve springs)
JUN Stage II (needs JUN valve springs)
Spoon (needs ITR valve springs)
CTR (needs ITR valve springs)
01 ITR (needs ITR valve springs)
ITR (needs ITR valve springs if revving past stock rev limit on GSRs)
What about Crower??? anyone have any experience. I am looking at crower because I need FI 401T’s. It’s quite expensive though. I am still NA and I can feel my car starving for more agressive cams, I wonder how much the 401T’s will help B4 FI.
hehehe
