ok i have had a starting issue now for a few weeks… car cranks but wont start and has solid obd1 cel on… i searched a lot of archived threads and started a thread on honda-tech but nothing has fixed my problem… so far ive replaced the main relay, distributor setup, spark plugs, fuel filter. ive tried hearing for the relay clicks and fuel pump priming but havent heard either… i even added new fuel to the tank and tried spraying fuel into the throttle body while cranking with gas pedal down… ive switched batteries to see if it might be a battery issue with the battery from my other car… ive tested all the fuses and relays under the hood… i cleaned up and retorqued the ground at the thermostat housing… ive tested all connectors at the main relay for power both constant and switched, only one lights up during either test… im lost on what to do right now… ive tried different tests and suggestions but none help… my fuel injectors arent leaking…
Try doing a compression test. If one of the cylinders is low drop a little oil into it and try it again, and if it bumps up the psi on that cylinder you may have bad piston rings therefore low compression. Just a thought. I had a B18 die out of nowhere until I checked the compression and cylinder 2 and 3 had almost none.
edit: also have you jumped your code yet? Sounds like it could be a grouding issue? Not really sure without that code.
for a solid cel obd1 means mechanical failure from what ive been told and there is no codes being thrown even with the light on.
does this sound like the fuel pump??
There has to be 3 powers at the PGM-FI Main Relay…
1- 12V+ constant, [hot at all times].
2- 12V+ switched, [hot in run and start].
3- 12V+ switched, [hot when cranking to start only].
If you do not have all three (3) engine will not start. 94
ok well i tested the relay connector for power… i got power to one terminal with keys off, the same one with keys to on position, and a different one when engine was cranked. so based on that i got the first and 3rd power from the above list… is this right??
(Z, is over the 2nd one but it wont let me place it there)
___ ___ ___ << (this diagram represents the tested connectors at the pgmfi relay (rz-0063)
(X)
___ ___ ___ ___
At (x) on the relay i got both constant power and power at switched
At (z) i got power when cranking motor..Well thats a little confusing, however I sounds like your missing the switched power, [hot in run and start], without it you will not turn on the injector relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay and in turn, the fuel pump relay can not turn on, [power for fuel pump relays coil is supplied by the fuel injector relay.
What is the MM&Y, [trim level] of your car, I assume it is a G2, but there are more then a few models of G2s. 94
its a 1991 gs trim level… according to the haynes book i have all the wires hooked up… but im hearing you bout one may not be getting power. its just weird that if that happened, what caused it to just go bad all of a suddenly? its ran fine since day one the only wires that were messed with were in the engine bay when converting to obd1 and that was done by a reputable shop and its running a rywire conversion harness. thats all the wiring thats been done and its never gave me a problem. the reason im saying this is not only do i try to fix problems but know what caused it also.
It could be as simple as a defective fuse.
Did you test the fuse(s) while they were still in the fuse box, was there power on both test tips of the fuse?
What did you use to check the fuses,or did you just eyeball them? 94
i used the test light to check the fuses and relays under the hood and all tests showed light turning on…
On both test tips of the fuse?94
Have you checked for spark? Like the easiest thing to do and I don’t think I saw the coil being mentioned at all. Pull a plug out and put it in the wire like if it was in the car. Hold the plug (around the threads with RUBBER COATED handle pliers) right above a NON PAINTED metal bolt (NOT touching the bolt, but like an 1/2 inch above) and have someone crank your car. You should get a blue/ white/ yellow, spark of some kind jump from the end of the plug to the metal. If not, no spark, that’s your issue. Replace the coil.