I have a 1992 GSR and the car started cutting out on me once reaching operating temps.
I have swapped in a new Main Relay, a new ECU, and still have the same issue. No CEL, fuel pump primes just fine.
Next thing I’m doing is checking the igniter, and probably swapping in a known good one just for shits and giggles. Any other suggestions?
Car starts right up when cold, VTEC kicks in fine, no leaks, no smoke, no sputtering.
I can drive it for 4-5 minutes, then I’ll reach a stoplight or stop sign, and the car will drop rpms so low that it can’t recover and it shuts off. Then I have to wait 1-2 minutes for the car to restart again, then it will go another 3-5 minutes before doing this all over again.
have you checked your distributor? OAN i dont have that ‘valve’ connected and mine still runs…fine. the idling issue…clean your FITV first then your IACV
With what you’ve mentioned, I’m going to go with the 20 year old distributor is suspect. Also, if you haven’t done so already, check your plugs and check the resistance on your plug wires.
sounds like the ignitor or ignition coil in your distributor swap out the whole distributor with a new one…most places wont just sell the ignitor or coil
check your alternator. When the car is off the battery should be about 12 volts. With it idleing it should be about 13-14 volts. It could be that your are running off a good battery then after you’ve used the battery’s charge it shuts off.
well, you can do the inefficient thing, which is keep swapping in parts until you solve this, or you can isolate the problem.
since it doesn’t start right back up, that’s when you want to diagnose. when the problem is occurring, immediately after it dies, check for spark. if you have no spark, check for power at the blk/ylw tracer wire of the 2 pin connector at the distributor. if you have power there, you’ve just isolated the area of the problem to between the distributor and the spark plugs. but you only have a small window to check, as you can’t find a problem that isn’t occurring.
another thing you can do is install a fuel pressure gauge in a spot that’s visible while driving. watch the gauge. if the pressure drops before it dies, problem is fuel related. if it drops after, it’s likely ignition related.
tbh though, on these cars, 75% of the time it’s gonna be an issue with the distributor, or components of it. other 25% is the mfr.
Yeah I hear what you’re saying. I’ll buy some diagnostic tools before going further.
Good thing is, every part I’ve swapped in, I’ve been able to return for full refund.
you don’t need much in the way of diagnostic tools. checking for spark when the problem is occurring doesn’t require any tools except a screwdriver.
a 3$ test light would be nice to check for power at the distributor. or you can whip one up with a couple lengths of 18 gauge wire and a 194 marker bulb
Gotto agree with welfare, tossing parts at a problem is an expensive way to troubleshoot a problem, it only has two advantages, eventually it will fix the problem and you will have a number of working used parts.
The most common problems when engine stalls after warm-up is the coil, next is the ICM, [spark problem] and 3rd is the PGM-FI Main Relay, [fuel problem].
As mentioned, you do not need much for basic troublesooting, a 12V test light, [not LED type] will do a lot of things.
Also as mentioned, you need to check things when engine stalls, have a spark plug socket handy, when engine stalls, try starting it then pull a plug, if it is “wet” with gas, fuel is not the issue, plug the sparkplug back into the spark plug lead and ground the plug to the engine and have someone crank the engine to check for spark.
A bad ECT sensor would not stall the engine, it would just run rich and gas milage would suck. 94
[QUOTE=fcm;2249465]Gotto agree with welfare, tossing parts at a problem is an expensive way to troubleshoot a problem, it only has two advantages, eventually it will fix the problem and you will have a number of working used parts.
The most common problems when engine stalls after warm-up is the coil, next is the ICM, [spark problem] and 3rd is the PGM-FI Main Relay, [fuel problem].
As mentioned, you do not need much for basic troublesooting, a 12V test light, [not LED type] will do a lot of things.
Also as mentioned, you need to check things when engine stalls, have a spark plug socket handy, when engine stalls, try starting it then pull a plug, if it is “wet” with gas, fuel is not the issue, plug the sparkplug back into the spark plug lead and ground the plug to the engine and have someone crank the engine to check for spark.
A bad ECT sensor would not stall the engine, it would just run rich and gas milage would suck. 94[/QUOTE]
I’ve replaced all of the bold items with zero luck. I will actually start troubleshooting this weekend.